1997 Probe Gt, 5 speed, 2.5 L V-6; 77,750 miles: replaced clutch master cylinder 11/15/2010. Clutch free play okay, pressure to push clutch pedal down- okay (these conditions apply to vehicle after sitting over night. Vehicle operation as follows: Start out clutch pedal free play and pressure to puch pedal down okay for several start/stops. After a dozen stop/starts the pedal loses all free play and clutch has tendency to slip in higher gears when engine power is appllied. Clutch pedal is also hard/tight against back stops after these stop/start operations.

Lets say 2 things the clutch itself is worn or it's not releasing the clutch enough from the pressure plate.

I suggest a small test
1. Start engine while clutch pedal is releasing the clutch plate hold the brake pedal at the same time and then release the clutch pedal slowly .
How far is the pedal from the floor

You have to be carefull with the bleeding procedure.
You can bring air into the system and result is your problems

Hope it helps

check that the clutch is fully engaging by checking if there is free play at the throw out lever and clutch push rod . If you cannot push the rod back into the cylinder then the slipping is because the clutch is only partially engaged. Replace the clutch master cylinder if that is the case. If it is right then the fault will be in the pressure plat/ cutch plate and it may require a clutch kit.

nothing wrong with the clutch
indicates that the throw out bearing is dry and failing
as it goes after a few minutes of driving , it also indicates that there is residual pressure in the clutch system keeping the fingers in contact with the bearing which indicates a clutch master cylinder compensating port blocking up
If the clutch master cylinder has not been replaced in the last 5 years , it is suggested to replace that before you get a slipping clutch symptom

Top up your fluid, if it works look for a leak on the cylinder, master and slave

pull up clutch pedal, all the way up. now fill fluid to top, now open the slave cylinder, it should bleed just with gravity. let it drip for a few minutes or until you have to fill it up 2 times. Make sure that when the pedal is all the way up, that the piston is all the way back on the master cylinder. look up at the back of the master cylinder under the dashl. there is an adjustment. you want just very little play between the pedal rod and the piston, just enough that there is some play. but you need some play there. if there isnt any play, adjust the rod.

With a clutch cable linkage there is always adjustment in the cable length to compensate for cable stretch.

With hydraulic clutch linkage, there is less need for adjustment because there is nothing that is supposed to change.
However, the rod connecting the pedal to the clutch master is still almost always adjustable. What you try to do is optimize the pedal free play to about a half inch. You don't want to get rid of all the free play, or else the clutch master may retain pressure and cause slippage. But you don't want too much free play, or else the clutch may still grab enough to cause grinding. There is usually a locknut and threaded shaft that turns to change length.

But if the hydraulic fluid is dirty or leaking from either slave or master, rebuild them both, look for pits, put in new seals, and bleed the old fluid and air out of the line, before adjusting.

if it has a cable for clutch you need to adjust it. if its hydralic then the master cylinder may be not bleeding off properly when cold or slave sticks when cold. you need to measure pedal free play that is how far pedal goes down before resistance is felt there needs to be 1/2 to 1 inch or so free play to make sure that the release bearing isnt riding on the pressure plate [would be the same as riding the clutch] the 1/2 inch higher than brake pedal probem can be adjusted on the pedal stop but shouldnt be the problem. of course the clutch could be just plain worn out to.

they use a hydrolic system wich use fluid if your gears are not grabbing and its slipping no udjucment require because the cluck is bad but if you cant put it in gear when it on then its your hydrolic system

You've replaced the master, the slave, now I would check to see if the throwout fork will move by hand. If you can move the fork by hand I would say that your pressure plate and or throwout bearing are worn out. First try to just gravity bleed the system. If that doesnt work, it may be time for a clutch, pressure plate, and bearing. The pressure plate spring pushes the pedal back up and depending on how many miles and driving habit those little arms on it break off and just wear out. I hope this helps you.

Stop driving the car now! The clutch master cylinder has an adjustable pushrod, it is set up too long now. Take it back to where it was done and tell them if they don't know how to set up clutch free play, they shouldn't have attempted the job. This may have cost you a $3500. clutch job. Get it adjusted fast.