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I can't drive out the hinge pins on my Lewmar hatches, circa 1991

I've got broken welds on my Lewmar hatches, which are circa 1991.I can't seem to get the steel pins out to remove the hatch and get it rewelded. What's the secret? I drove it out a little bit with a cutoff screwdriver, but now it won't move anymore and it hasn't come out far enough to grab it from the other end. Is it a long, one-piece hatch pin? I can't tell. Thanks, Evan Dill

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Pins are splayed on the end to keep them from coming out. Remove entire hinge or drill out pin and replace, remembering to peen the end again.

Posted on Sep 12, 2017


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SOURCE: DS Cartridge slot, broken pins

no. unless you know how to disassemble it and know how to do some soldering.

if you can think you can do it.
open it, check for wires with same diameter of original ones and remake the wiring.
not impossible, but a hard task to do.

Posted on Nov 28, 2007



  • 32 Answers

SOURCE: stiff hinge pin

These systems use a pretty generic hinge set-up. These can be dealt with in two ways, one involving a safer method for future adjustments. The hinges are two separate bars on each side of the monitor with friction cuffs that use the tension between their two pieces to hold the monitor stiff. Generally my experience with Acer models is that they ALL ship with pretty stiff hinges, which is a double-edged blade. Stock hinges that don't click when fresh have a tendency to need replacing after a couple years, where as my acer TM4K hinges are still strong today after 4. The best way to loosen these babies up is to just use it. About an average of 75 open/close cycles break in the hinge to where it stays nice & tight, but stops clicking or cracking. The other way, which is for those who are afraid the LCD housing will crack it's so tight, is to take the monitor off, but not apart, carefully using two pairs of needle-nose pliers, hold steady the monitor end with one set and with the other, flex the flat end of the now loose hinge back and forth as far as you can get it to move until you feel it is to the right strength.

It helps to mention that too little is better than too much, as I see a good amount of people burnt out with their Compaq Evo & Presario (ca.2001-2) hinges, falling to the ground soon as you let it go, only 6 months after their last replacement set.

Posted on Jan 08, 2008


  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: Hatch B open error

the problem of the B Door open is in fact on the A door sensor.
if you look to the left side of the A door where the sensor is u can see 2 sensores, one metal plate and another in button form. the problem is in the button form sensor, the A door is not push him right, try too push that 2 sensor's and see if the error desapears if so try to find a way to maintain them fushed

Posted on May 13, 2008


  • 8 Answers

SOURCE: remove pin pivot in transom mount

look for clips around the pin inside the housing perimiter. If you see rings cut in the pin that don't have clips in them, they probably fell off. If used in a marine environment, the pin probably is corroded and locked to the housing. Use usual methods, i.e. heat and lube and.....a hammer wrench.

Posted on Nov 28, 2008

michigan man

edgar walker

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SOURCE: 2002 Ford Explorer Limited rear hatch body piece broken

look for one at a salvage yard or someplace that sells after market parts just ask for a rear door hatch exterior panel

Posted on Jan 09, 2009

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99 Chevy Silverado door pins how to change hinges

If the hinges are bolted they can be released from the bodywork and door by removing the bolts although on many models accessing the bolts can be a very difficult task.

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In the case of a car regularly maintained, including oiling the hinges, removing the hinge pins with a dedicated service tool is relatively easy but can be extremely difficult without the service tool. Cars that have not received a high level of maintenance throughout it's life hinge pins can be extremely difficult to remove needing the application of heat, lots of hammering and repainting afterwards.

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The only door bushings I am aware of are the ones on the hinge pins. Correct? If not, please clarify what you mean.
New pins come with new bushings, and the hinges are welded on so the pins are pretty much the only items replaceable. Not a fun job - because of the door stop springs you will need a spring compressor, and you will also need a special tool to drive out the old pins. However, both are available from a parts store or Amazon.
Just open the door and support it from the bottom, and then go for it, one pin at a time - for the upper pin, compress and remove the small spring, drive out the old pin, drive in the new pin and put the spring back. No spring on the bottom hinge - just replace the pin.

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Sounds like your hinge pins are wearing out. You can get a hing pin and bushing set either at the dealer or any auto parts store. You'll need a jack and a block of wood, or some rubber matting to protect the door. Open the door and place the jack under the door and raise the jack just enough to support the door. Using a hammer, I use a brass hammer but a steal hammer will work, drive the hinge pins out one at a time. With the hinge pin driven out you'll be able to see the wear in the hinge plate, then you install the bushings required to " realign" the pin holes and then reinstall the hinge pin. Sometimes the holes are badly elongated and on the later models were the hinge is welded I remove the door and build the wear area with a wire welder. The bushing method usually works well for most. Good luck I hope this helps.

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How to replace rear hatch hinges

I don't think the hinges themselves are replaceable, you may find the hinge welded to the frame.. You can however replace the hinge pins. The pins are pressed in, and driven out with a hinge punch. Make sure you have a helper though, the hatch is very heavy.

Mar 29, 2010 | 1999 Ford Explorer

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How hard is it to replace door hinge,pins and springs on a 2000 chevy blazer

The door hinge pins aren't very difficult to replace, the hinge itsself is. The hinge is actually welded to the door, so in order to replace it, you will need to take it apart, cut the welds, and weld a new one on, and paint it again. The hinge pins though are doable by about anyone. First, you will NEED these tools. A medium sized hammer, a brass drift punch, a long flat screwdriver, tire iron, or prybar, and something to rest the door on to keep from scratching it up, and to keep from pulling the wiring out. it should be about the same height as the bottom of the door. You may WANT these tools: door spring compressor, 1 extra person. First, start with the bottom hinge pin. You'll notice that there are a couple of washers around the tapered end of the pins. Ignore these; they're just decoration for all intent purposes. Pry out that spring that you see in next to the hinge with the prying utensil that you chose. Using that hammer and punch, drive out the bottom pin. Next, drive out the top pin, taking care to support the door, because when this one comes out, the door WILL fall. This is where your extra person and the milk crate, or whatever you chose to support the door come in. Be careful when driving the top pin out. The punch and hammer will come DANGEROUSLY close to the windshield, and result in a $190 job for a windshield and hinge pin/bushings, versus just $10 for the hinge pin/bushings. This is where you would repair the oblong holes that your door hinge undoubtedly has. You can get by with using something like Qwik Steel putty to fill in the gaps around the bushings if you want to stay cheap (you may end up having to redo it in a few years, but beats welding a new hinge on and having to redo it in a few years anyways. Or, you can choose to build the area up with a welder, redrill the holes, and go that route. Anyways, after you get your new bushings settled in, whether you used the steel putty route, welding, or just installed a new hinge, you can put the door back up there and the pins back in. I like putting the new ones in so the taper is at the bottom (keep thinking they look like they're gonna fall out the way GM puts them in there, though they never do), and then you have an option. If you want, you can leave the spring out that was in there. It will require a door spring compressor to put back in, but if you don't put it in, it won't do anything other than keep it from moving on its own when it's open. I don't bother with it. Hope that's what you're after, and good luck. It's not a hard job, but it can be a wrestling match putting the pins back in. Lastly, the door is a lot heavier than it looks, just FYI when you get it loose. Feel free to ask any further questions, I keep track of these.

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Have 2001 Ford Windstar. Had back hatch open and backing down drive way. Corner of hatch hit edge of the house. The hatch was pushed up & in aprox. 2" so it now hangs at a slight angle and won't close. ...

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