Whirlpool MH1150XM Convection/Microwave Oven Logo
David Breutzmann Posted on Aug 23, 2008
Answered by a Fixya Expert

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MH1150XMT-0 (whirlpool) partially dead control panel

I actually have an MH1150XMT-0, but that model dosen't seem to be available on the site... but anyway...

My control panel is in the process of dieing.. some buttons work, some don't and I can no longer turn on my microwave (I could when it started) but the start button and add minute buttons are now amongst the dead...

Most of the advice I've found here (and elsewhere) is about totally dead controls, not partially...

I'm pretty decent with taking things apart and such, but I can't find a catch or screw on the (apparently) modular panel and I'm afraid to just yank it off and look... any help?

  • johancronje Dec 10, 2008

    I have a similar problem, the control panel works intermittently, and when it doesn't it displays an F2 error code. Elsewhere on the net it said F2 indicated a shortcircuit. Can I simply purchase a new control panel and install? How easy is this?

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1 Answer

William Miller

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  • Whirlpool Master 9,179 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 06, 2008
William Miller
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In order, I would suspect:

- it needs a reset
- door switch or door switch mount trouble
- your keypad is failing

The first thing I would suggest is a hard reset. Unplug the unit for a minute or so. Then plug it back in, set the clock and try again.

If that doesn't work, leave it unplugged for maybe an hour.

Then let us know if the hard reset does not fix it so I can give you some advice on the other two probable causes.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

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"F2" on a Whirlpool means you have a shorted membrane keypad. It's not uncommon for it to be intermittent or partially operable, too.

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In this case, you simply move your circuit board into the new frame. That is a simple DIY job.

You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number (with suffix) from the tag on the oven
here.

At our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.

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Some connectors on the relays may have a lock:

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.
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Actually it can't be "dead" if a fault code is on the display.

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We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.
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At our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.

If you don't find your mini-manual, or if you want to look at it before removing the controller, you can download it here (just enter your model number).

You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number from the tag on the oven here.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.
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At our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.
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There should be a "mini-manual" (tech sheet) hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting, testing, and locating components.

At our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.

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There should be a "mini-manual" (tech sheet) hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting, testing, and locating components.


dee77f7.jpg

Also at our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.

If you don't find yours, or if you want to look at it without disassembling the oven, you can download it here.

You can find links to helpful exploded view diagrams and part ordering help here.

I recommend that you bookmark that link to your favorites.

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If so, the installation instructions are very handy, and it's best to have two people since the microwave can be heavy and awkward.


You can download owner's manuals and installation instructions for several brands (including Amana, Jenn-Air, Kitchenaid, Litton, Maytag, Roper, Tappan, Thermador and Whirlpool) here.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

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It may be the fuse, which is usually located behind the grille or on the floor of the oven behind the control panel or between the door switches.

If the fuse is good, it may be an open thermostat or thermal cutout (TCO) / thermal fuse on or near the magnetron or on top of the cavity / body of the oven.

If it goes dead for a while during or after cooking then comes back on, the magnetron is probably overheating and causing the magnetron thermostat to open.

If it went dead almost immediately after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a shorted high-voltage capacitor.

If it went dead a few seconds after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a failing high-voltage transformer.

If it goes dead or blows the breaker (or GFI) when you plug it in or open or close the door, then there's a problem with a door switch or door switch mount.

There should be a "mini-manual" (tech sheet) hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting, testing, and locating components.

If you don't find your tech sheet, you can download it here.

At our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.

You can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.
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It may be the fuse, which is usually located behind the grille or on the floor of the oven behind the control panel or between the door switches.

If the fuse is good, it may be an open thermostat or thermal cutout (TCO) / thermal fuse on or near the magnetron or on top of the cavity / body of the oven.

If it went dead almost immediately after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a shorted high-voltage capacitor.

If it went dead a few seconds after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a failing high-voltage transformer.

If it goes dead or blows the breaker (or GFI) when you plug it in or open or close the door, then there's a problem with a door switch or door switch mount.

At our site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.

You can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here.

There should also be a "mini-manual" (tech sheet) hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting, testing, and locating components.

If you don't find your tech sheet, you can download it here.

If the cavity thermostat needs to be checked or replaced you'll need to pull the oven from the wall.

You can download Whirlpool owner's manuals and installation instructions here.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.
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So it's dead, but sometimes the inside lights come on? Does the display come and go, too? If so, and power is getting to the board, this is a problem with the control panel assembly, which we repair nationwide for $39.95. Full information on our service is available at our site, which is linked at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk
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