My 3 year old unit stopped working - the repairman said teh magnetron was bad and the motor that rotates the tray was bad too (strange coincidence?)
Anyway, Whirlpool will give me teh Magnetron free and 50% off a motor so its only $35 - but the labor (including the $69 service call I allready paid for) will be close to $300! Well, a brand new unit at Lowe's is less than that.
So, I was thinking if they would send me the parts, is this something I could do myself? Or, at least find someone who can do it for less than $300? I will never buy whirlpool again, BTW!
Re: Is a Magnetron something I can replace myself?
Had EXACT same symptoms on this model: Here is my solution-
Take off the front vent (screws on top).
Take off the control panel (1 srew at top, then lift up and out). There are 3 switches that are activated by the door latches. The top switch has heavier wires going to it.(BTW There is a wiring diagram and troubleshooting packet in the bottom of the control panel) The top switch was faulty, which allowed everything to operate except the turntable and magnetron, and NO, they wouldn't coincidentally fail at the same exact time. YOU HAVE A BAD SWITCH. (Jerseyhelp, SOUNDS LIKE TECH EITHER MISSED THE BAD SWITCH OR IS TRYING TO RIP YOU OFF) You can order one at http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=266300 for about $10 (I followed link from THIS site, this is NOT my site)
You can also obtain this type of switch locally. Push back on the plastic tab holding the switch and it will swing up and out. Use needle nose pliers to pull on the connectors to remove the wires, NOT the wires themselves. I had a similar switch on hand that was rated at lower AMPS, so I put it in the bottom switch position (runs less current on that part of circuit) and moved the bottom switch to the top position. The middle switch is wired opposite the other 2, you cannot use it in the top or bottom position! stay out of the top cover and you will be relatively safe
as long as you keep the unit unplugged while working on it.
Hope this saves you a service call or purchase of a new unit. BTW my unit ran 7 years before failing. The switch had just gotten hot and eventually wore out, wouldn't even click when depressed. To ensure you get good contact on the replacement switch, crimp the connectors a bit with your pliers before installing on the switch. A loose connector will cause overheating (of the wire harness, not your popcorn) and poor operation
Re: Is a Magnetron something I can replace myself?
THE_JD is exactly right!
My microwave went out, no turntable and no magnetron operation.
I had already torn the microwave apart, looking for blown fuses, AND checking the switches, etc. I was just about to call a repairman to get an estimate on a new magnetron when I found this article.
After reading this I re-checked the switch with my Ohm-meter and there lay the problem.
I opened the switch and filed down the connectors and bent them over a little, and voila! Problem solved. Cost=$0. That switch wears out because it has higer voltage electricity going through the connectors and the arcing wears the connectors down.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
With all due respect, what are you doing to it? If you use it with nothing in the cavity, that will kill the magnetron otherwise it will last for years and years. Very unusual and Bosch is a well respected name. If there is a probem with the oven, Bosch will replace it so take it up with Bosch.
I had the same oven for one and a half years and had the same problem. Had the sears repairman come out and he said the magnetron burned out and needed replacing for $285. It was never under warranty with the warranty that came with oven. I couldn't believe it! We had an independent repairman look at it and he found a design flaw that causes the magnetron to blow. If you replace the matnetron (megnatron?) it will work for awhile, maybe, but then just need to be replaced again. It's cheaper to buy a new microwave. In fact, I got out our old microwave that's over 20 yrs. old and still works--just isn't as fast and as new ovens. Good luck!
The sound you may be hearing could be the filament transformer breaking down or the magnetron tube failing ..they will arc and eventually fail. If you aren't getting any microwave energy ( to heat material in the cooking compartment) then in all probability it is either the transformer, magnetron or high voltage capacitor.. None of which are something you want to repair yourself... My advice is that if the cost to repair exceeds teh cost to replace then just buy a replacement model. If yours is under 1 year old, then you may be able to negotiate and get a replacement from the store where you purchased it.. If it is older than a year, it's probably cost effective to just buy a new model.
HI. in most cases, this will lead to a failed Heating device(magnetron tube).It would be wise to check the Magnetron cutoff fuse to be sure of its integrity. if the fuse is blown, simply replace it. if the fuse continues to show continuity, replace the magnetron.
(((The fuse is located inside the unit along side the magnetron)))
hi, You may need a new magnetron, contact sharp or the store you got it from; most microwaves have a 3-5 year warranty on the magnetron. If it's not in warranty, find a good appliance repairman, this is a difficult and dangerous repair job.
power spikes are very damaging to a microwaves internal parts, it sounds like your transformer and/or magnetron are blown. if the unit is out of warranty I would recommend calling a repairman or getting a new microwave (the transformer & magnetron are expensive and dangerous to work on) also get a small single plug surge protector for the new one.
Generally, the most common causes of a failure to heat are:
- bad door switches or door switch mounts - loose connection at the magnetron - problem or loose connection on the control unit circuit board - bad magnetron or other high voltage part (such as a shorted diode)
If you or someone you know decide to look into it, we have critical safety information, info on door switch diagnosis and replacement, and disassembly information at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk
You can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here: http://tinyurl.com/gv383
There should also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel, which is very helpful when troubleshooting.
We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.
Just so I understand, you replaced the fuse inside the oven?
If so, I would suspect a bad thermostat attached to the magnetron. This device interrupts power when the unit gets too hot.
I've included a representative photo.
After so many years your magnetron may be bad, too. Once you get the oven working, if it cooks and doesn't trip the thermostat again, it may be okay.
PLUS - It looks like this model has manual rotary controls. If so, it's common for those to develop bad contacts after so many years. I would consider that my third suspect.
Those controls are called the thermostat (not to be confused with other part by that name that I discussed above) and the selector switch. One could easily be bad.
You can check part prices at Sears online at http://www3.sears.com (the "3" is supposed to be there)
Some other things that can cause a "dead" condition:
- bad connections on the small circuit board where the fuse is mounted (if such a board is present)
- bad connections in the wiring