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Make sure you are using flux and that the copper is cleaned to a bright new apperance. Also make sure that you are using at least a 5% silver flow solder.
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If you are using copper tubing, use a cutting tool and cut the tubing so it will be cut straight. Install a new compression nut, then the "O" ring. Tighten the nut securely. You should not have a leak.
If you are using copper pipe, you must clean the ends of each piece to be connected with fine sandpaper. (Approx. 1") If you are using a connection sleeve, sand inside it. Apply solder flux to pipe and sleeve. Use a torch and heat all around joint, then hold your torch on opposite side and touch your solder next to the joint. It will suck the solder in. If you use 1/2 inch of solder, that's enough. No need to over solder.
melch777, the HP Pavilion dv9000 series of Notebook PC's?
There is a problem with the graphics chipset cooling, for the dv2000, dv6000, dv9000 series of Notebook PC's, and a host of other HP laptops.
LED lights light up, (Power On LED, and Harddrive activity LED ), fan/s may spin, and the harddrive may sound to be active, but no display on laptop's LCD screen.
[ Or to an external VGA monitor ]
Primer: We'll start with the Cooling System.
The cooling system consists of a Heatsink, Cooling Tube, and Fan Assembly.
A) The Heatsink is essentially a thin small piece of metal, with Tall, Thin fins protruding from it.
The thin small piece of metal absorbs heat from whatever object it is placed against, and the tall, thin fins radiate the heat away.
The Heatsink is mounted to one end of the Cooling Tube.
B) The Cooling Tube is a slightly flattened copper tube, sealed on both ends, and filled with Nitrogen.
At one end are two small metal plates. At the other end the Cooling Tube is connected to the Heatsink.
One small metal plate sits on top of the Processor. The other small metal plate sits on top of the graphics chipset.
[ A Processor and the graphics chipset, are the two hardware components that give off the most heat ]
C) Fan Assembly: The Fan Assembly consists of the Fan, and surrounding cage. (Shroud)
Heat is absorbed from the Processor, by the small metal plate sitting on it. Same for the graphics chipset.
Heats is then absorbed by the Cooling Tube. The Cooling Tube transfers the heat along it up to the Heatsink. The Heatsink absorbs the heat, then radiates it away through the tall, thin fins.
Air flow from the Fan Assembly, helps carry heat away from the fins of the Heatsink.
The surface area of the small metal plate, sitting on top of the graphics chipset, is too small. This allows the graphics chipset to overheat.
Constant overheating, leads to the solder joints of the graphics chipset's mounting, to partially melt, then solidify.
This causes a 'cold solder joint', or solder joints, and poor contact of the graphics chipset to the motherboard.
Chip and Chipset are slang terms for I.C. Integrated Circuit,
Compare to an older Intel Pentium 4 processor, and it's matching Socket 478 processor socket.
The Processor has 478 contact pins, sticking down on it's bottom side. The Socket 478 processor socket has 478 matching socket holes.
With a BGA surface mount there are no contact pins, nor socket holes. In place of the contact pins there are Solder Balls. In place of the socket holes there are Copper Pads.
{The Copper Pads are gold plated. Better contact surface }
The graphics chipset is set into place on the motherboard, with the Solder Balls lining up on the matching Copper Pads. Heat is then applied at a specific temperature, and length of time.
The solder balls melt, which solders the graphics chipset to the copper pads. (Which in turn of course, solders the graphics chipset to the motherboard)
Constant overheating leads to the solder joints that are made, remelting partially, then solidifying again. This leads to a cold solder joint, or joints. Poor contact of graphics chipset to motherboard.
The repair has been to add surface area with copper sheeting, for the graphics chipset. This added surface area then acts as a Heatsink. Helps to keep the graphics chipset temperatures lower. 'Cures' the problem.
Different methods of re-soldering the graphics chipset back to the motherboard, have been used however.
If a BGA Rework Machine isn't used, the repair is sketchy.
Might last 2 weeks, 6 months, maybe a year, if other methods are used.
The following is for reference only, and not advertising for the poster, or website.
(I don't agree with the method used in the video for resoldering. The poster of the video is redeemed however, in my eyes, if you read the comment immediately under the video; { Click on - Show more }
There a BGA Rework Machine is mentioned as a proper method to use)
Nvidia litigation page. Time limit long over with, (Nvidia had nothing to do with the problem. It is the poor cooling design for the graphics chipset. Not the graphics chipset from Nvidia ),
Soldering is intended for soldering alloys together such as copper, silver, gold....solder does not stick well to steel and aluminum...also, you need to use a flux when soldering...this flux cleans the connections of impurities and allows the solder to stick to the metals to be joined...Judging by the iron that you have...it looks like it is mainly used for very small soldering applications where not too much heat is required...If you want to solder larger items(such as soldering to a metal chassis) then I would recommend using a soldering iron or soldering gun with more wattage
The GPU is mounted on a small circuit board, and then the circuit board has a method of mounting to the motherboard.
With a Processor, the chipset is also mounted on a small circuit board. On the bottom of the circuit board are pins. These pins go down into socket holes in the processor socket. (Or you have Processors with the socket holes, and the processor socket has the pins)
Instead of pins for mounting, there are round solder balls on the bottom of the small circuit board. On the motherboard area that the circuit board is to be mounted to, there are a matching number of copper pads. (We are talking REAL SMALL here. Copper pads about the size of a straight pin head, solder balls about twice the size of this period >. )
The circuit board with it's solder balls, is set into position on the motherboard with it's copper pads. Heat is used to melt the solder balls, and they solder to the copper pads.
The cooling system in the HP Pavilion dv9700t Notebook PC (Laptop) consists of a Fan/Heatsink Assembly.
The fan draws air up from the bottom, and pushes air through the fins of the Heatsink. The Heatsink is attached to a long copper tube. The copper tube has two flat copper plates on it.
One copper plate sits on top of the Processor's case. The other copper plate sits on top the GPU chip.
Heat is drawn from the Processor, and from the GPU chip to the copper plates. The heat is then transferred to the copper tube, and then to the Heatsink.
It's a POOR design.
NOT having worldwide warranty? Oh?
Watch the entire video. Also states a method to fix the problem.
Hi,
Yes, that is the tube that was used to charge the unit...after the charging process the tube is often bent over, crimped and then soldered shut... that is perfectly normal and you should be okay...
no the coating cannot be repaired, because the coating is heat resistant and anything u put on will not adhere or be heat resistant enough, a silicon auto sealant may last for while but not likely to last long, u cannot solder as to high a heat will ruin core, had a though there is a cold copper solder solvent for fusing copper pipes if u wrapped with this copper tubing and cold soldered it might work it works on hot water copper pipes. If u try this and it works please keep me posted on this my email is [email protected]
Never run plastic tubing through a wall! If copper is already there, then leave it, and solder the pinhole leak back up.
If the leak is outside of the wall, then cut off the tubing that includes the pinhole, and buy a brass ferrule coupling for 1/4 inch copper to copper. Make sure that it includes a brass barrel (it may come with 2, one for each side. If not, they are sold separately as well.). Install the coupling with ferrule into one side of the coupling.
Push the barrel into the plastic tubing, and install with ferrule just like you installed the copper tubing.
Sometimes you can get a plastic ferrule for the plastic line side of the coupling.
Each of the rubber covered cords running to each ear piece has two fine strand wire bundles inside. The right ear piece has a red colored strand and a copper colored strand. The left ear piece has a green colored strand and a copper colored strand. The wires are coated with an insulation lacquer. The lacquer burns off when you heat the wire for soldering.
Repair item: 3.5 mm stereo headphone jack, shrink tubing
Plan for strain relief:. These headphone wires can't take any tension at all. You need to crimp the black cords to the headphone jack somehow.
Slide strain relief and headphone jack housing over the over the rubber covered headphone cord.
You need to plan a way to relieve the pulling stress on the solder joints where the two headphone cords enter your replacement headphone jack.
Try shrink tubing if you have it.
If you have some thermal shrink tubing, slide a piece over the headphone cord end before stripping the wires.
Slide the headphone jack casing over the headphone cord also.
Strip each headphone cord 5/8" using the 18 gage setting of your wire stripper..
Hold each headphone cord in a "third hand" soldering assist tool and tease the green, red and copper bundles apart..I wore a 10x Magnavisor and I used a sewing needle and a bright light.
Twist the copper colored strands from both headphone cords together. They are the common ground wires. The copper colored bundle will attach to the headphone jack ground.
Apply a dab of solder to the end of each of the three bundles of wire. You will see and smell the insulating lacquer as it burns off. Keep most of the wire bundle cool.
Position the two strand headphone cord and the 3.5 mm headphone jack in the third hand soldering stand.
Plan where you can crimp the headphone cord. Crimp it when ready.
The green == left channel wire goes to the tip of the 3.5mm jack.
The red==right channel wire goes to the middle of the 3.5 mm jack
The copper colored wires go to the ground of the jack..
Measure resistance, 31 ohms per earpiece.
Screw the jack cover on and finish the strain relief craftsmanship.
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