Having trouble with solder sticking with metal to metal applications

Use a tin solder on JB Weld for your application. Make sure the metal is cleaned and prepped or it won't take.

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Since its very risky and very tough for a person who is not having a knowledge of electronics....to be able to repair it you should know soldering ..a elecronic device know as soldering machine comes through which you can solder all the braked wires.....if you remember where the wires were before, you can do it..just buy a soldering machine ,flux ,and soder wire to fix the wire ..

a flux is a chemical cleaning agent which facilitates soldering, brazing, and welding by removing oxidation from the metals to be joined.
Soldering is a process in which two or more metal items are joined together by melting and flowing a filler metal into the joint, the filler metal having a relatively low melting point. Soft soldering is characterized by the melting point of the filler metal, which is below 400 °C.[1] The filler metal used in the process is called solder.
Soldering is distinguished from brazing by use of a lower melting-temperature filler metal; it is distinguished from welding by the base metals not being melted during the joining process. In a soldering process, heat is applied to the parts to be joined, causing the solder to melt and be drawn into the joint by capillary action and to bond to the materials to be joined by wetting action. After the metal cools, the resulting joints are not as strong as the base metal, but have adequate strength, electrical conductivity, and water-tightness for many use
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Change cable

My X52 began doing this after hundreds of hours of use. Joystick lights flashing twice per second. Throttle operative but joystick (and buttons) not.

The problem was 2 wires inside the joystick base that had eventually been sawed in half by the sharp edge of the metal tube that carries the wires up into the stick. I have no doubt that this same issue could cause intermittent operation if just the insulation is worn off of more than one wire.

The fix: Remove the 4 screws from the base and lift the joystick assy out of the base. Inspect the wires where they emerge from the metal tube. You will find wires broken, or, insulation rubbed off. If you have broken wires, strip the ends and solder them together...you should have about 1/4 inch of "slop" up in the top end so you can pull the top wires down enough to strip and solder. If you re-insulate the solder splices with heat shrink or spaghetti tubing I would keep the amount used minimal...these wires need to remain somewhat flexible when the stick is being used.

Finally, I fixed the engineering defect that caused this in the first place by immobilizing the wire bundle with hot glue at the tube opening to prevent future contact with the sharp tube end. If your only problem was skinned insulation, this hot glue application may be all you need to do to keep the exposed conductors from contacting each other or the tube.

Speaking of "slop", you will also be contending with a bunch of silicone grease that lubricates the wire and mechanism.

the memory stick isn't connecting properly. the connectors on the card are bent in a little. so lighlty bend the card in the direction towards the metal connections , have the connectors facing on the inside of the bend.

i've done this before with my psp when the memory card was having the same troubles. the card works properly ever since.

The MAIN RELAY: It's up above your gas pedal near the cruise control module. It will be a gray or brownish/orange box.

Don't buy a new one unless yours is full of corrosion; just pry the cover off of it with a flat head screwdriver and look close where all the sharp pins are sticking up on the board to find the broken solder connection(s). Heat the faulty pin with a soldering iron until the solder puddles around it and your good to go. The crack in the solder will be smaller than a human hair, look close & wiggle it and you'll see the loose connection. There is usually no need to add solder, what is there is enough, it just needs melted again.

In the meantime you can tap the relay while you're turning the key and it will usually start. Good luck...

If depends what your radiator is made out of. If it is aluminum/metal type you can soldering it with a brazing torch and some solder. Make sure you clean it really well and get all of the corrosion off or the solder will not stick to the repair.

If you have a plastic radiator that is a little tougher to make an effective repair. You can try an epoxy rated for high pressure applications that is water proof, this may or may not work and it is unknown how long this repair will hold, could last forever, may last two days. Worth a try tho since epoxy is cheap.

Hi,

There is no other option than cleaning.
The player must be taken apart to clean those knobs and housing.

Kind regards,
Gerard

Mine was doing the same, spoke with the technitions and they told me to undo the connector from the hand piece to the machine at the machine, you then need to disassemble this connector and look to see if one of the white wires is dissconnected, if so you need to carefully push the gold plated pin out the back of the connector towards the cable, solder the wire back on and reassemble and it should work.
If not contact the head office and they were very helpfull.
Cheers Robert

if the usb metal flat stick got snapped off,try to solder it back to its mini board, if you dont know how to solder..read from this site:
http://www.kpsec.freeuk.com/solder.htm

PS,rate pls... ;-)