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weber does not permit this anymore because the weber family sold the company and models are being fabricated overseas where quality control is unreliable. however, converting the models is no more difficult today than it was 10 years ago; we convert webers to NG and to LP all the time. Simply change the orifices and the regulator with orifices drilled based on the BTU for the pressure of the NG regulator. We stock the parts for this and it takes about 10 minutes to convert.
Unfortunately, I could not find the Model Number 8006, that you listed. However, I have included a link to the Owners Manual section for Weber Grills. Check the model number again to make sure it's correct and go to the link below. http://help.weber.com/manuals.aspx
Under the control panel, to the right of the cooking box is a sticker with model numbers, serial numbers, BTU rating, etc. It is not easy to find or read. I used a flashlight and read the numbers out loud for someone to write them down. The first 2 letters of the serial number are the date code.
That, my friend depends on what flame height the burners are set on and how long the lid is closed. If left long enough, I suppose it could reach 550 to 600 degrees. Which is more than what's necessary to seer a steak. Why do you ask? Having a problem with the grill not heating well?
Yes you can, but only if you know the BTU rating of the burners. Then you need to know what size drill bit to use to drill each orifice. Plus you will need to eliminate the LP regulator when you hook it up to your house's already regulated natural gas line. When you hook up any gas appliance, it needs to have it's own shut off valve installed on the gas line. I also like to install a quick-disconnect adapter after the shut off so I can release the hose from the grill and put the grill away when it's not in use. I have LP/Nat gas conversion charts available to look up drill sizes if you need to know more details. Keep in mind, that if the grill does not state the individual burner BTU ratings, but only the total BTU rating, you will have to divide that rating by the number of burners. Douglas
This grill is definitely worth fixing. I have had similar problems with several weber 8006 grills. It is usually something obstructing or diluting the flow of fuel. If you have a new tank and your igniter is working (you have tried using a propane hand-held lighter, I assume) then it seems that it must be either the hose/gas line or the burner tubes. I would first check the main tubes and cross tube carefully for places that are rusted through. Holes can lower the pressure in the tubes and make them difficult to light (try just turning on and lighting the front burner). I would then clean the tubes at the spider trap/air vent end, which is nearest the propane tank. The spider traps, if you have them, are little plastic cages and the edges snap together. You can use a vacuum to gently clean out the tubes. If this does not work, you can buy or borrow a similar, but working hose. As they say, "it is always the last thing you try that fixes the problem".
Hello...I have the same grill and want to do the same conversion...From my research, you need to drill out the three orifices with a size #53 wire gauge drill bit. ( this resizes each orifice to 12000 BTU's each, which the grill is rated at 36000 BTU's).Then remove the existing hose and regulator. Replace the hose with a Quick disconnect compression fitted hose. The NG supply needs to have a pressure regulator installed, with a shutoff and quick disconnect fitting installed. Connect the hoes from the grill to the supply, and fire it up...THIS IS WHAT I INTEND ON DOING TO MY GRILL,BUT YOU DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK>>>
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