Our fujitsu reverse cycle AC is leaking water at bottom left hand side of the internally mounted blower unit

The accumulated water has no drain to flow through, and is backing up in the indoor unit. Find the source of the clogged drain, and your problem will disappear. If you are lucky, you can pour a little bleach or peroxide in the indoor unit's cooling coil and the chemical will eat your clog. Otherwise, mechanical cleaning may be necessary. Check your installation manual to see how your unit is supposed to be plumbed.

Yes I would highly recommend calling for service, there shouldn't be any moisture leaking at all.

Component

Blower Motor Below right side oft?

Blower Motor Relay . In engine compartment fuse relay box

Blower Motor Resistors Below right side oft?

Blower Switch Below center oft?

Engine Compartment Fuse Relay Box Left side of engine compartment

ignition Switch Below left side oft?

Cl90 (68-LT gry) Left side of engine compartment (fuse relay box)

C20l (20-W HT) Below left side oft'?

C225 (13-Will) Below right side oft'?

Q216(8-WHT) Below right side ofi?

0203 Below left side oft'?

Blower Removal

1. Discharge the refrigerant from AC system. (Refer to the operating instructions of

your refrigerant recovery recycling charging station for proper procedures.)

2. Disconnect the inlet and outlet pipe from the evaporator.

NOTICE

- When connecting and disconnecting, refer to Quick Coupling below

- Immediately plug all open fittings to keep moisture out of system.

3. Remove the cover and drain hose.

4. Remove the glove box and disconnect the wiring harness connector.

5. Remove the blower unit.

6. Install in the reverse order of removal.

7. Evacuate the refrigerant system. (Refer to the operating instructions of your

refrigerant recovered cycling charging station for proper procedures.)

S. Charge the AC system. (Refer to the operating instructions of your refrigerant

Recovery recycling charging station for proper procedures.)

passenger side of the car, under the dash board

Is it leaking out of the evaporator(inside unit) or condenser?

If it is leaking from the outside unit on defrost then it is normal, if it is leaking from the inside unit then you have a blocked condensate drain tube!

These units defrost from time to time and is normal, it is actually melting the ice that can form on the condenser when it is cold enough outside, it has to initiate a defrost cycle so that air can flow through the condenser again after the cycle is complete.

Then it will return to normal heat pump mode, this is assuming that you have a heat pump.

If the unit is mounted on an outside wall check the condensate drain that comes out with the line-set to the outdoor unit. If the pipping goes up into the attic than you have a small condensate pump that may have failed. The float in the pump may have stuck in the down position not allowing the pump to come on.

It's quite a job to do,but if your up to it here's the step's.
1 REMOVE THESE PART'S
a. cowl side trim right hand side
b. front door scuff plate right hand side
c. no.2 instrument panel under cover
d. glove compartment
e. with cd auto changer:instrument upper finish panel
f. with cd auto changer:cd auto changer
g. audio amplifier
h. ecm
2 REMOVE CONNECTOR BRACKET SET SCREWS
3 REMOVE BLOWER UNIT
a. disconnect the connector's from blower unit
b.disconnect the wire harness clamp's
c.disconnect the evaporator temp sensor connector clamps
d.remove the 2 screw's,bolt and nut,than remove the blower unit
DISASSEMBLY
1 REMOVE BLOWER MOTOR
remove the 3 screw's and blower motor
REASSEMBLY
reassembly is the reverse order of disassembly
INSTALLATION
installation is the reverse order of removal.
This procedure is from alldata.
Like I said alot of work.Good luck.

If its just that corner check that it is level (if not leak could be somewhere else)

Then check your hoses and valves for holes or leaks (try putting some food dye water when running to see easier

Most likely a loose hose connector or hole in the rubber hose

This hould help you

Dishwasher Basics The main parts of a dishwasher are: Control mechanism
The control mechanism is located inside the door behind the control panel. Many units use a simple electro-mechanical system: a timer determines how long each part of the cycle lasts and activates the proper function at the proper time (such as the detergent dispenser, wash spray and draining functions). Units that are more expensive might have a computerized control system. Modern units also have a door latch that must be closed for the unit to run. Some also have child safety locks. Intake valve
This is where water from the home's water supply enters the dishwasher. The unit's pump doesn't pump the water into the basin – when the intake valve opens, water pressure drives the water into the unit. Pump
An electric motor powers the pump. During the pump cycle, the pump forces water up into the spray arms. During the drain cycle, the pump directs the water into the drain hose. The motor-pump assembly is mounted beneath the basin, in the center of the dishwasher. There are two main types of pump:

• Reversible
  These pumps switch between pumping water to the spray arms and pumping water to the drain by reversing the direction of the motor. Reversible pumps are usually vertically mounted.
  -->Reversible pump
  
  
• Direct-drive
  The motor runs in one direction, so the direction of flow is switched from spray arms to drain by a solenoid that opens and closes the appropriate valves or switches one hose connection to another. Non-reversible pumps are usually horizontally mounted.
  -->Direct-drive pump
  
  

Dishwashers can be installed in either a portable or a permanent configuration. Portable units have finished sides and top that can be used as a countertop. When not in use, the machine sits in place next to the wall. When it's time to run a cycle, the unit can be rolled on casters over to the sink, where it connects to the faucet and plugs into a nearby outlet. In a permanent installation, the dishwasher goes underneath the existing countertop and bolts into place. Hoses underneath the kitchen sink connect directly to the hot water line and the drain line, and the unit usually plugs in under the sink as well. Both types of installation require a 120-volt grounded line.

Make sure the unit is level, this is very important. Check for blocked drain tube, which runs from the bottom of the drain pan under the cold coil to the outside. Clear tube with a piece of coathanger wire, be gentle.

 during Cooling and Dry modes, if the unit is used under conditions of
lower temperature (18C)  the heat-exchanger may freeze, leading to water leakage and other damage.
If the unit is used for long periods under high-humidity conditions, condensation may form on the surface of the indoor
unit, and drip onto the floor or other objects underneath. (About 80% or more)


Increase Temp to 20 and also run coil dry cycle,