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In the most general, basic sense, I would be assuming that this is just one speaker and not 2 with this problem, or 3 or more.
Only way to get the ball rolling is pull the tweeter from the cabinet, checking to make sure all wires are connected at the tweeter and inside the speaker.
If that is the case, then you would need to determine if this is the tweeters fault, or its crossover (thing that divides the sound into whats right for the woofer and what the tweeter wants).
If you have a multi-meter, you would disconnect the wires from the tweeter, set the meter to ohms and touch a probe to each speaker terminal. No action means burned out tweeter, 100% action means burned out tweeter, a reading slightly less than the rating on the back of the tweeter (for instance an 8 ohm tweeter would show anywhere from 6 to 8 ohms on the meter) means tweeter is good.
If you have no meter then take the tweeter from the good speaker and swap in place of the bad one, making sure you respect + and - connections.Its a little risky this way,since if there is something wrong in the speaker it may hurt the good tweeter..(the meter is the safer bet). If it works, then you need a replacement tweeter, if not the problem is either wire connections inside the speaker, or something is wrong with the crossover.
tweeter burn out is primarely due to too much power input not so much from load music but the amp may be putting out far more than 8 ohms / replace the speakers but install a little device called a polly switch protector they work like a fuse if there is too much power they open and dont allow harmfull power to burn out the coils then when the power reduces they close turning the speakers back on look them up on the net any goo speaker retailor will know what they are and were to get then they cost about $ 2 lots of money ay makes you wonder why there not stock standered on all speaker enclose ,
Remove the speaker wire from your amplifier. Using a 1.5v battery place the wire on both ends of the battery. Observe if you can hear a cracking sound on the tweeter and the mid-range. If there is no sound., your speaker is busted and needs to be rewind or replaced.
One doesn't usually judge tweeter function visually. They don't actually move much.
Take a cylindrical tube (like from a paper towel) and place it over the tweeter to isolate it from the room sound and the woofer, then place your ear at the other end. Anything? Nothing?
What sort of signal are you feeding them? Let's look (or listen) to the source and how its audio gets to the speakers. Define the electronics, pathing and setup.
Maybe some history. Have you ever tried to blow them up in your enthusiasm for the new rig? If the tweeters are dead, that may have happened. Microphone use and feedback = dead tweeters.
I thought it might be a solder joint, but seems unlikly so is there a capacitor connected to the tweeter? I'm just wondering if that has gone if it has one? It might be loosing it's charge, but is recharged when you power up. It's just a theory!
KLH 900B tweeter specifications: 6 ohm, 40 watts. By the way, KLH's QC for speakers could be improved. One of my 900B tweeters quit because the spacing for the voice coil was way off reasonable tolerance and the body of the speaker coil base pillar (ie: magnitized part) was off-center - and cauesd the coil to ware and short. I contacted KLH but they did not respond.
At this point, you might just want to look at it again and worst case senereo, you mess up the face of the speaker to get inside, Since it does not work, and its not one of those speakers that you normally send out to fix. It is a throw away item. This is why they don't want to deal with you. Cheap speakers are anything under 300, and usually cost more to send out.
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