I been using these for quite some time without any major issues, well up until now. What I thought would be more than adequate packing turned out to be a disaster, with a tweeter from one of the satellites clearly displaced from its socket; I can hear it dangling inside when I shake the satellite, and there is no audible high freq coming out of this tweeter with music playing.
There are only 4 screw holes on the back to access the wire clamps, but it appears near impssible to get to the tweeter from there. Is there a way to take off the grills on this thing?
Last thing I attempted was emailing midiland, and they are apparantely ignoring me atm.
Am I just SOL?
I was never attempting to ship it out, I know better than that. The whole thing works fine except the tweeter on one side. Well I managed to get the grill open. What appears to be the magnet came off of the tweeter, and I could put it back up (there seems to be glue that used to hold the magnet and the tweeter together), but the tweeter wont work. I see no visible damange on the diaphragm itself, maybe there is something I could do.
The tweeters used in this system are 1/2-inch poly-aluminum dome variants.I was never attempting to ship it out, I know better than that. The whole thing works fine except the tweeter on one side. Well I managed to get the grill open. What appears to be the magnet came off of the tweeter, and I could put it back up (there seems to be glue that used to hold the magnet and the tweeter together), but the tweeter wont work. I see no visible damange on the diaphragm itself, maybe there is something I could do.
The tweeters used in this system are 1/2-inch poly-aluminum dome variants.
You can't post conmments that contain an email address.
At this point, you might just want to look at it again and worst case senereo, you mess up the face of the speaker to get inside, Since it does not work, and its not one of those speakers that you normally send out to fix. It is a throw away item. This is why they don't want to deal with you. Cheap speakers are anything under 300, and usually cost more to send out.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
That sounds more like an issue with the radio ground. Some radios ground through the antenna and finding loose connections can be time consuming. You can add an additional ground from the radio to a chassis ground. Poor connection at the Ground can cause strange issues like you are experiencing.
FYI, high-end stereos utilize an amp, or amps, for lows & mid-range speakers so the ground problem could be at the amp instead.
all speakers r connected to the same wires on the radio
If left/right balance and front/rear fader work properly
and sound is coming out it is likely (but not definite) radio is ok and speaker wiring is the issue.
HOWEVER, if it sounds the same on both left and right, it could be the radio. It is unlikely both sides have the same issue at the same time without it being in the radio.
The only way to verify it to disconnect the speaker and substitute a known good speaker.
So back to troubleshooting.
you can try programable remnotes using the hometheater code entries , but more than likely you will need to buy a factory replacement remote.
http://www.remotecontrolscenter.com/
my '94 bird did the same exact thing, but a few days ago the wire to my under hood light started shorting out and smoking so I grabbed it and broke the connection apart. then I noticed that the interior lights were on, while the door was closed and the switch was off I disconnected the battery at times I was not using the car I got tired of connecting and disconnecting the battery all the time so I disconnected the beeper, unplugged all the interior lights that would not go off, and now I use it day for day but I noticed where the door lock lights on the outside were also on at all times but I concluded that the wattage is so low in those lights that they can be on for a time before the battery will drain down to low for starting but now the wipers quit working also.............I thought it was a nice auto but I may have to put that bird to a rest..............
I thought it might be a solder joint, but seems unlikly so is there a capacitor connected to the tweeter? I'm just wondering if that has gone if it has one? It might be loosing it's charge, but is recharged when you power up. It's just a theory!
On the images on Google for them there are no extra wires. Where are the wires on them? Do all the drive units work?
If the wires are for the super tweeter. Then looking around at the Google images it should be possible to unscrew the 4 screws holding the tweeters on top and you should be able to push the wires back inside the unit, if they are not connected to anything. Or at least see where they do connect.
the best solution I've found is this: 1. Remove all the tweeter screws. 2. Take a thing metal rod (a coat hanger should work) and lightly tap the tweeter through the top port in the rear until it is loosened and comes out. The tweeter is totally sealed so you probably won't damage it if you need to do this to a working tweeter.
This method also works for the woofer but you need to be very careful to tap the frame or magnet of the woofer and not the cone.
hi, have u first disconnected the tweeters and then checked, as if its on a cross over, the tweeter is in series with a capacitor,if u have a ohms meter or a continuety tester check the tweeter coil if its open,secondly you can have the coil replaced, check if u can get one before buying a new,let me know
The only way I can think of to check is to disconnect the leads to the tweeter, then check resistance with an Ohm-meter...no reading means dead speaker.
I was never attempting to ship it out, I know better than that. The whole thing works fine except the tweeter on one side. Well I managed to get the grill open. What appears to be the magnet came off of the tweeter, and I could put it back up (there seems to be glue that used to hold the magnet and the tweeter together), but the tweeter wont work. I see no visible damange on the diaphragm itself, maybe there is something I could do.
The tweeters used in this system are 1/2-inch poly-aluminum dome variants.
×