Wont cool Fans cond & evap both work; compressor runs; t-stat pretty new; unit is 9yrs old any advice

Sounds like the gas charge was lost due to a leak. That is most probably why it was a store return.

how about the compressor is it running ? as its the main part to produce cooling

I use a snap on current clamp to "see" if there running as there so quiet nowdays you cant hear them , if there drawing power there running

If possible, try by passing the thermostat. If it starts up the t/stat is bad.

Yeah... maybe...

Freezer THERMOSTAT.

When it is WARM it should be conducting electricity (closed).

(generic answer. because I am not a pro... and all my Samsung's are Flat Screens... which are REALLY pretty easy to repair...)
((I like'em... but all their capacitors are made of gum wrappers)).

First... Always... always photograph everything you are removing.

Be careful of the evap fins... they need to be straight... and the flimsey PLASTC clips holding the entire unit in place become more brittle/breakable at freezing temperatures.

For my old Amana... they simply ARE NOT available!!

RE Pictures:
Keep in mind if you cannot put/stuff it all back in... you will have to hire it out... or buy a whole new one and pretend it was NOT just a $14 thermostat (ouch).

FANS**
The problem you will have trouble shooting this... is MOST ALL modern units are wired to STOP fans from running when the doors are opened... and I suspect you don't want to (or can't) be in there with the door closed...

My suggestion... Get a big roll of tape for your freezer door "light" switch... TAPE IT in the SHUT POSITION.

A little delay... FANs should start.

Remove your inspection panels and look directly at all your fans.
Logically that's got to be... the fan right in the middle of your freezer coil.

All typical FREEZER issues I have found...
the refrigerator FUNCTION is a secondary cooling function of the freezer element. If the refrigerator is working... Your FREEZER element MUST be working. Your trouble MUST be a FAN issue ONLY in the freezer area: 1). FREEZER Thermostat
or
2). an ERRANT wire blocking rotation, loose-hub, disconnected power wire or defective fan motor... OR... more difficult... there is a temperature sensor THERMSTAT... usually nickel sized...One of TWO living in the freezer... On my old Amana... it shows but on my newer "Sears" ... no show... but I know it is in there... It is definitely not the chubby <second> one clipped to your evaporator is your defrost thermostat (warm = open)... IT IS WORKING fine... or your refrigerator would not.

Leave it alone for now**

Still failing... Back to the FANS:

Spin them by hand... If they (it) turns freely... with your lights of (door closed... You might want to plug it a "SPARE" FREEZER thermostat... you <should have> bought in advance
because... attempting to short across the thermostat terminal... with the lights off... in confined area... could prove highly problematic... if not (you know).

If you are daring...
TEMPORARILY short that FREEZER thermostat... Still no fans...

**Beats me!

Be safe and happy hunting...

Oh yeah..

the real FIRST STEP in ALL refrigerator/Frzr troubles...
ALWAYS THOUROUGHLY DEFROST EVERYTHING FIRST... Totally!

Take pictures... lots... and don't forget to tuck that back panel into the drip tray... like it was before you started.

Compressor should rapidly bring pressure down from standing pressure to running pressure when switched on. If no change, compressor not pumping. Make sure the line tap valve isn't leaking, and the gas you used was correctly charged.

The overload relay on the back is bad.

evap fan runs when the compressor runs / so the unit is running most of the time . you may have dirty cond coils under neath or the fan by the compressor is not running . this cool the coils and promote cooling . ck them and clean them . mm hope this helps .. feed back pls ..

Replace the motherboard (part # WR55X10942) but be careful to check that the evaporator fan (inside the freezer) turns on when you power up the refrig again. A bad evaporator fan motor can take out the motherboard. If compressor starts with new board but not evap fan, unplug immeadiatelly and replace the evap fan motor to save new board.

YES GOOD ADVISE . ALWAYS START WITH THE BASICS. IS EVAPORATOR COIL CLEAN AND CLEAR? ALL EVAP FANS RUNNING? DRAIN PAN CLEAR? IS STAT CALLING FOR COOL? IS OUTDOOR COND COIL CLEAN? IS OUTRDOOR FAN RUNNING WITH NO PLAY IN BUSHING? DO RUN AND START CAPS TEST GOOD? DOES CONTACTOR LOOK GOOD? THEN TRY TO CATCH UNIT WHEN TEMP IS ABOVE DESIRED SETTING. FIRST TEST STAT. IS IT OPEN OR CLOSED? IF BOX IS HOT AND ITS OPEN THEN PROBLEM IS STAT. IF STAT IS CLOSED AND OUTDOOR FAN IS NOT RUNNING THEN COMPRESSOR PROBABLY OVERHEATING WHEN FAN QUITS. CHECK FOR VOLTS TO FAN GOT VOLTS? FAN IS BAD. NO VOLTS? TRACK BACK TO SOURCE OF POWER ( CONTACTOR) AN R22 BOX AT 52 PRESS IS NOT TO BAD ON START UP ON A HOT BOX BUT COULD BE HIGH ON 502 408 OR R12 STUFF TYPE OF REF IS DEFINITELY IMPORTANT. GOOD LUCK