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Posted on May 01, 2010
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Our refrigerator is not working. We have had the repairman come out 3 times and he has replaced the defrost heating element, the fan, and the defrost timer. Does anyone have any familiarity with this issue to offer a solution. It is a Kitchenaid Superba 42.

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Shehu Pro

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  • Master 1,284 Answers
  • Posted on May 01, 2010
Shehu Pro
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Joined: Dec 07, 2009
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Hi, you have to check few things, first of all check power at the outlet for 120 volts. If the light in the fridge works, the defrost timer, cold control and possibly the wiring are the most common things that can make a fridge sit there and be dead, not working.
The defrost timer might be stuck in defrost, turn the timer screw to advance the timer and if the fridge comes back on, replace the defrost timer. You can join the wires together to by-pass the cold control for a test, if the fridge comes on, replace the cold control...

Take care

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0helpful
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Hey there, I have a Westpoint NOFROST De Luxe Tropical frige, model # WRK 297.1. The freezer section is forming ice and the circulation fan is making alot of noise due to ice being formed behind the back...

I believe your problem is the defroster circuit . There are only three components on most refrigerators unless you have something real special . Kidding . They are as follows : defrost timer , heating element , and defrost cut out switch . The defrost timer cycles the refrigerator out of normal operation and into defrost mode once every six to eight hours depending on the unit . When in this mode everything shuts off , compressor , circulation fan , and condenser fan is so equipped . To eliminate the circulation fan , you'll have to keep an eye on your refrigerator checking in every half hour or so for six hours to eight hours and see if it stops working . If it does , then we know the timer is working correctly and the problem will be the heating element or cutout switch . The heating element is checked with an ohm meter. Usually they burn out when they go bad and you will read infinite resistance. The defrost cutout switch should read 0-1 ohms when the freezer temperature is 40° F or lower. If the heating element checks good , in other words it shows to have resistance usually between 30 and 100 ohms, replace the cutout switch . If the circulation fan never shuts off and the unit continues to run without shutting down after a six or eight hour Time cycle , replace the defrost timer . Good luck
tip

What do do if your fridge/freezer is not cold

5 reasons for fridge and/or freezer getting warm:
1- the evaporator coils are icing up and won’t let air circulate.
2- the evaporator fan is not working to circulate air.
3- there is no refrigerant in the system.
4- no power to fridge or compressor.
5- the condenser coils have no air circulation

check under the fridge behind the vent. if it is too dusty or the fan isn’t working, it is not getting enough airflow to cool down. replace fan and/or vacuum out the dust.

if there is no power to the fridge, the light will be off. if the compressor is not running, there is a defrost timer that cuts the power temporarily to the compressor to melt ice on the coils. it’s located under the fridge behind the bottom vent. If the timer is off and the compressor is not going, the compressor or the main board is bad and needs replacing. there is also a temperature sensor on the evaporator coils that tells the defrost coil to turn on and when to turn off. if the defrost timer is on but the coil is not heating up, replace the sensor. if it still won’t heat up, it’s the timer or the coil.

the easiest way to tell if there is no refrigerant- the freezer wall is warm and the compressor is loud. if there is no refrigerant, it may be more cost effective to replace the fridge.

if you feel no air coming from the freezer vent, the fan needs replacing. If you feel air moving in the freezer but not the fridge, the channel from freezer to fridge is blocked.

if the freezer has air and the rear freezer wall has frost on it, the evaporator coils are iced up and need defrosting. causes:
1. low refrigerant
2. no fan
3. too much humid air in fridge/freezer due to door open or bad door seals
4. the condensate drain tube is clogged
5. defrost cycle not functioning properly

if the seal around the door is ripped or not completely sealing, or there is condensation at the bottom or the walls of the fridge, replace the seal(s).

no air, no fan. Replace

if the refrigerant is low, it just needs a top off. but you need to be certified by the epa to move refrigerant, so get a professional.

there defrost cycle starts with the timer. at a certain time of day for a specific time, the timer turns the compressor off and turns on the heater element located at the bottom of the evaporator coil. this stays on until the coil temp sensor reaches a certain temperature to let the timer know that the coils are defrosted and turns off the power to the element. the defrosted water drains to the condensate pan. if the timer is bad, it will never go into defrost, or never get out of it. if the element is bad, the coils will never defrost. if the temp sensor is bad, it’ll go into defrost, but it will either tell the timer that it’s always frozen or already defrosted, resulting in the element never turning on (stays frosted) or never turning off (eventually burning out the element).
on Dec 02, 2009 • Refrigerators
2helpful
1answer

My samsung rs267lash, the coil inside the refrigerator section keep on freezing up also just under the fan and it's stoping the fan

Most likely the defrosting heating element has burnt out and needs to be replaced. I know it seems contradictory but modern refrigerators rely on a heating element cycling on a couple of times daily to keep the condenser core from freezing up.

Please rate my response.
1helpful
1answer

From time to time stops working and making a noise like boling water

A refrigerator must defrost 2 - 3 times a day. It does this via the automatic defrost cycle. When the cycle starts alll motors shut off and there is a heating element that is in the evaporator / freezer section of your unit. That heating element melts the ice until the 60 Deg F bi-metal thermostat cycles and terminated the automatic defrost cycle. During the defrost cycle is is normal to hear a hissing sound as the melting ice drips on the heating element assy. Addiionally you may hear coolant gurgles as the unit shuts off to start the defrost cycle and the coolant system equalizes the internal pressures between the pressure and return lines. Again another normal sound. If your unit did not stop to defrost 2 - 3 times a day in a matter of 3 to 4 days you would have a large block of ice in the back of your freezer section and the evaporator fan blades would be hitting that ice block. The freezer would say cool yet probably no longer make ice. Also the fresh food compartment would start warming up. Hopefully this resolves your concerns. If you need more assistance just respond to this post and I will help you.

Thanks for choosing FixYa.

Kelly
0helpful
1answer

Have a GE GSS22KGMA side by side. Fridge gets warm at the top

Hi and welcome to FixYa. I am Kelly

I am going to paste part of your text and then reply:

Your text:

Repairman came back and replaced a small round part at the top of the evaporator (resistor??) <
{ That was the termostat}

I just read that the problem could be the defrost thermostat..

He already replaced it.

I hate to say it but is sounds like your in repairman hades.

So far I see 1. a new mother board, 2. new defrost thermostat and 3. new defrost heater element. (other than wiring that is everything in the circuit)

Either one of the 3 NEW parts is bad or...there is a partially broken wire in the circuit.

Hopefully this helps you understand. ( I know it does not fix your uint)

Thanks for using FixYa.

Kelly

P.s your words again:

one would expect this to be remedied.
You got that right!
0helpful
1answer

Ge refrigerator icing up

the timer is the control on defrost time and it is the one that when you hear the compressor fan stop working and the fan in the feezer stop working too ...the unit get into defrost time... see if your timer need to be change...good luck
1helpful
1answer

Refrigerator/freezer won't stay cold.

With the defrost timer being replaced already it sounds as if the repairman is not looking at the real problem. Unit works for 2 days then things start thawing. Hint Hint... it is not defrosting. There is a heating element inside the freezer section attached underneath the internal tubing that melts the ice every 6 to 8 hours via the defrost timer depending on the defrost timer installed. To prove that it is not defrosting..... just unplug the unit and place a stand fan blowing into the freezer for about 90 minutes. I would bet that once you plug it back in it wil work for 2 days and the problem once again repeats. With 2 calls on the same unit and you still have the same problem I would be calling the service people back and demand they fully troubleshoot the defrosting element and thermostat. Personally this is an unstatisfactory performance of an in home service by a repairman. With the exception of a new part if required, they should wave any labor and service call fees.
0helpful
1answer

Kenmore model 57029 side-by-side refrigerator not working

If freezer is icing up, you might have a defrost problem. Frost free models have a heating element that is controlled by a timer to automatically defrost ice, ie defrost timer turns on defrost heating element every 12 hours to melt ice in freezer and allow good air flow.
You can test defrost element with an ohm meter(located inside freezer coils-will have two wires going to a plug connection), if OK replace defrost timer (located in various places depending on make and model
0helpful
1answer

Frig side by side problem

yes it could. you again have a defrosting problem. do you noticed frost at the back side of the freezer section? the repairman could have replaced your heating element and your defost timer.
0helpful
1answer

Kenmore side by side Refrigirator

Sounds like you have a defrost problem. The timer could be playing up and taking too long to defrost, which causes the evaporator to ice up, hence no cold air to the fridge and the water line freezes up, hence no water dispensed. When the timer does eventually defrost the fridge then everything returns to normal. This could also be caused by a faulty defrost terminator or bad connection on the defrost element.
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