Extreme knocking during spin cycle. Is scraping and damaging the plastic on the top of the tub, and causing the washer to move across the floor. Model is Kenmore 417.90802990. Thanks Will

Did you set the back feet before leveling? On most units to set and lock the back feet you need to pull the top towards you so that the back is raised off the floor, then set it down again, this will release the feet and lock then down. The you level the two front feet. After this is done you must make sure your load is balanced. Distribute the items as evenly as you can in the tub. Once it gets to the spin cycle if its walking or shaking a lot, stop it and redistribute the items more evenly in the tub. Also try not to overload the unit or combining many heavy items with few light ones. If this is a new machine, did you remove the shipping locks from the back before using it? They have plastic strips attached to them, make sure they have all been removed, as well as any shipping bolts.

hi Rick.
Reasons a washer will make noise during spin mode:
1. Main tub bearing faulty
2. Main drive pulley
3. Motor coupling worn
4. Bad clutch
5. Worn out drive belt
6. Clogged or damaged drain pump
7. Transmission is worn out
8. Shock absorber (front loader washers)
9. Springs or dampening straps (top load washers)
10. Agitator directional cogs aka "agitator dogs" (top load washers
When the washer spins, it rides on a bearing that allows the tub to move freely with zero resistance. If this bearing is worn out, a loud noise will be heard when the washer spins. A good way to tell if your washer problem is the main tub bearing will be that the washer noise will get worse or louder as time goes on. This means the bearing is becoming more worn out and close to complete failure. The bearing in your washing machine is a circular metal object that has many small little metal balls inside. These small metal balls inside the bearing sit in a track and move when the washer is spinning. If the tub bearing begins to wear out, usually the small metal balls inside can fall out one by one causing the noise you hear. (If your washing machine is a front load washer, open the door and turn the drum by hand. If you hear a rubbing sound or the drum spins uneven, then the main tub bearing is most likely bad and needs replaced.)
Washing machine tub bearing

Washer has noise during spin cycle
The bearing may also be without lubrication. If the sound you hear is more of a squeaking noise than a grinding noise, it may mean the bearing needs to be lubricated with a mechanical grease. If the sound is more of a grinding noise, then this usually means the bearing is falling apart and will need to be replaced ASAP. If you suspect your washers main tub bearing is worn out, the repair process is one of the most difficult to perform yourself. A worn bearing can also damage the tub of the washer. This means the tub (inner or outer) may need to be replaced also.
A washer making a loud noise during spin cycle can also be caused by a faulty drive pulley. The pulley is what the belt (if applicable to your washer) rides on to spin your washers tub. The pulley can be made of plastic or metal. It could be simply worn out or just loose. To find out if the drive pulley is causing the noise, you will need to take the washer apart and inspect the pulley for signs of damage.
WASHER MOTOR PULLEY
The motor coupling could also be the cause of the loud noise. The motor coupling in your washer connects the washers transmission to the motor. It is made of plastic and built to break if the washer gets overloaded. This is so the motor and the transmission do not become damaged. The motor coupling is an easier repair and can be done by most people.




Washer Washing Machine Motor Drive Coupling Coupler
The clutch in a washing machine connects the inner wash tub to the transmission. The clutch lets the washer get to the proper spin RPM in a gradual way. If the clutch is worn it can make noise when the washer is spinning. A bad clutch needs to be removed and replaced to stop the noise.
Washing Machine Clutch
The belt in your washer can become worn and cause noise while spinning. If worn out, replace the belt. Replacing the drive belt on a washing machine is an easy task and can be ordered online for less.
Washing machine belt
The drain pump in your washer that drains the water out could be clogged or damaged. While in spin mode, your washer may drain out the water by using the drain pump. If the loud noise only happens at certain intervals during the spin cycle, it may be the drain pump. Usually this can be fixed by simply removing the drain pump and removing any debris that may be clogging it up causing the noise.
Drain Pump for Washing Machine




The next part of your washer that can be causing a loud noise is the transmission. If the transmission is bad, usually the cost to fix this outweighs the cost of a new washer.
If you have a front loading washing machine, they all have shock absorbers. The shock absorbers are used to center the tub movement while in the spin cycle. These shock absorbers are connected from the washer frame to the outer tub. If the shock absorbers in your front loader become weak the washer will make a loud banging sound during the spinning cycle.
Shock Absorber for washing machine
Top load washers usually have springs or dampening straps holding the tub centered. If a spring or strap falls off or becomes weak, a loud noise will be heard in spin mode. Simply replace the strap, spring, or springs to remedy this issue.
Washing machine suspension springs
Agitator directional cogs are used to operate the upper part of dual action agitators (Top load washers). They engage the cogs on the inner area of the agitator as it turns in one direction. They release when the agitator reverses its direction. This lets the top part of the agitator to ratchet in only one direction. The bottom part will agitate in both directions. The cogs are made of plastic and wear out with regular use. They will start slipping and make a grinding noise. Another way to be sure that this part is bad is if you notice the top portion of the agitator does not move in a smooth motion. Removing the top half of the agitator to see if the cogs are worn out.

no spin cycle don't have water it could be the pump is not getting the water out fast enough, could be clogged or the rear drain pipe is blocked or bent. failing them to problems it could be the valve its self.

If this is a newly installed washing machine have you taken out the four big bolts on the back of the machine? It holds the drum to prevent it from moving during transportation when it was delivered. if machine runs during fast spin it will make the machine vibrate heavily causing it to move

the transmission may have been damaged during the runaway.to much movement can cause it harm that is why they come with a shipping rod in them.

sometimes the agitator gets loose, causing the drum to sway to far all over the place.make sure its tight , remove the softener dispenser (manual nut), then tighten the metal nut that holds the agitator down

Check the Vibration damper rods to be sure that...
1. They are there and mount is solid.
2. If they are broken in 1/2.
3. The plastic knuckle mounts are not missing/broken.
4. There is oil in the shock absorber/spring section of the rods.

Also - there are suspension springs on the bottom of the tub that could be broken and/or missing.

Replace/repair as necessary.

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

Hello calmtouch,

You said,
When in spinning cycle, the barrel begins to move all over banging the washer across the floor. I don't even know what to look for.
Help.

sounds like the coupling connecting the tub to the transmission may be loose and throwing the wash tub out of rotation causing the banging and walking washer.
Bless You
Huuum

syrny,

Not sure what you did, exactly. First, does the machine shake when spun empty...and then with water only? If so, you have probably failed to tighten something or misaligned something. Go over your work.

No shakes? Rearrange your load. You may have a pair of heavy wet jeans which is throwing the whole thing out of kilter. It only takes about a half pound of sodden clothing to do this.

The "cleats" inside the wash tub are actually called "fins". If they are loose try tightening them to see if the sound goes away. You should be able to tighten them from inside the wash tub. Some models have mounting screws that are accessible from inside the wash tub. However, if your machine is knocking like you say it is, it could be sign that one or more of the mounting shocks under the wash tub could be bad, the rear tub bearing could be going bad, or the drive pulley could be cracked or warped. Remove the lower kick plate and watch the shocks during the spin cycle. The shocks should vibrate some, but should not be excessive to the point that it causes an unbalanced spin. To check the drive pulley, remove the 3 screws from the washer top in the rear of the machine. The top should slide back some and then lift off. Watch the drive pulley behind the wash tub during the spin to make sure the rotation is smooth and even. Sometimes one of the arms on the pulley can crack or become bent and cause the pulley to wobble. More than likely, though, the drive belt would slip off. I have also seen where the hole in the center of the drive pulley starts to "round out". The hole is not perfectly round and has to flat sides. Sometimes over time the drive shaft will start to slip around the flat sides, causing the pulley to rattle during the spin cycle. If the rear tub bearing is starting to go, the washer will be very noisy during the spin cycle, and you may start to notice some stains on your clothes if the bearing seal has been breached. You can reach inside the wash tub with the unit turned off. With one hand, push up on the wash tub and release. If you can feel the tub moving up and down (even the slightest) this could be a sign that the bearing is worn out. Now this should be a noticeable metal on metal type feel. Not the normal motion of the wash tub moving up and down from the motion of the shocks. The tub bearing is not a cheap (or easy) fix. The entire back section of the rear outer tub shell has to be replaced, because the bearing is molded into the plastic. Check all the easy things first. Let me know if this helps.