The top drawer has stop working. There is no power going to it

Try and do a power reset to the dishwasher. This means turn the mains power off to the dishwasher and back on again. If there is no mains socket under the kitchen bench then maybe do this from the mains contactor switch in the meter box. If there is no difference to the behaviour of the top drawer then the controller has most likely packed up. You can test things out by taking controller from bottom drawer and putting in top drawer. But this requires some experience with taking out the front covers of the drawers, taking out the connectors and putting back. If you mix the connector connections etc you can cause more damage. Take photos as you go along. Make sure the dishwasher is disconnected from mains power when you are working on it.

The most logical explanation is the controller in top drawer has packed up or the power board located at the base of dishwasher housing (under bottom drawer) has partially packed up and stopped supplying power to the top drawer controller. But another explanation is that the thermal relay in the top drawer (located inside the heater element assembly has cut off. This stops power to the controller. This is the most expensive to fix as the entire heater element assembly has to be replaced as the thermal relay is not separately accessible. How you want to isolate the problem and fix it depends on how comfortable you are with fixing electrical and electronic systems. This is a very sofisticated dishwasher and a small mistake is irreversible. By the way you can open the drawer by forcing it open but keep in mind not to try to shut it firmly again until you restore the controller power. Otherwise the lid seal or actuator motors will be damaged. Whatever you do, make sure the mains power is turned off if you work on the dishwasher circuits.

If this is a double drawer dishwasher and bottom drawing is functional but top drawer won't open means the controller on top drawer is faulty or power circuit is locked. If turning the mains power off and back on makes no difference then controller could be the problem. One way to test is to take the controller from bottom drawer and replace that in the top drawer. This requires a lot of patience and experience with electronic stuff. If you are not brave enough to test then call the technician. The controller is about $200 to buy. Make sure the mains power socket is taken out before working on the dishwasher internals.

FISHER PAYKEL DISHWASHER DD603 Parts

Most likely the thermal fuse (inside heater assembly) is blown.
Not easy to repair. Need to replace the whole heater at the base of drawer.

You could isolate the top drawer by taking the controller power cable out. DIsconnect mains power to dishwasher, open top drawer and remove front cover carefull after removing 2 plastic pins on each side with plier. Controller box is on left top side, remove bottom connector and cover with insulation tape. Put things back and turn power back on.

But if you want to find the fault with top drawer then that is very trick if there is no fault code on panel except beeping First clean the top panel inside door with a clean damp cloth. If this does not change the situation, then it is very likely the controller is detecting some faulty sensor - and will need to find one by one. Are you ready for it?

possible causes

• top drawer controller has lost power - replace power filter plate located at the base of dishwasher under bottom drawer controller
• itself is faulty if you are getting some lights on the panel
  
• thermal relay has tripped. It is located inside the heater element at the base of the drawer. The whole heater needs to be replaced.

Make sure the dishwasher is disconnected from the mains power supply when working on it

First is to make sure there is no leak. Pull out the lower tube, access from the left side only this side you can put your hand in with a small tower to dry out the wetness if there is. If it is wet dry out really good then unplug the power cord for 24 hr. After that plug power cord back. Hold the lock button while press the Start button until you see a display appears. Press the Power button to see a clear display. Then hit Start button one by one until you see Ld ( it stands for Lid down) If you miss it, keep going until it comes back in a loop. When at Ld hit the lock button. Wait until the noise is stopping. Hit the lock button again. Wait until the noise is stopping. Now you can pull out the top drawer and press the power button to get out this manual mode. Good luck.

To determine if your pump work, before attempting access from the bottom of the top drawer: You can manually pump the water out by doing the following:
1- Press the Power button to turn off the display.
2- Press the Lock button and then the start button the same tim. Hold them until the display showing up.
3- If the display is not clear with all the characters, press power button to see clear the display.
4- The first display is bL, then Er,Ld..dd, FU, P1, P2...by pressing the Start button to go by the sequence until P2 (drain). If you miss, be patient to continue press and release the start button to get back to P2.
5 When is is at P2, press Lock button to tun on the drain. When you hear the water flowing to the drain, you could pull the top drain to see how the water is draining.
6- When the water is out, press the lock button again to stop it.
7-When it is done, press the Power button to get out of manual mode.

If this is working, then your water is there because you are running the bottom and your air gap allow back flow to the top drawer.
Please let me know if this is not the case.

there is only one power supply or input so you need to find out where the power stops from the bottom to the top drawer

sometimes if the heater is faulty only one drawer will work and the other drawer will flash f1