Question about Fisher and Paykel 23 in. DD-603SS Built-in Dishwasher
I have a similar problem to another person. The drain on the dish drawer was blocked. The unit now shows an F1 error code ( flood?) and the pump runs continuously even after I've unblocked everything. I've tried switching it off for ages and drying everything out. When I switch it on again it shows the wash programme but then reverts to F1 and the pump motor runs continuously. Any ideas to cancel the F1 code?
Just had the same problem, removed the excess water from the drawers, turned off the power, removed the bottom drawer by pushing in the lugs at the bottom of the drawer where it butts up to the drawer front and pulling out the drawer. Then had to mop up with 4 t-towels and half a roll of kitchen roll the water in the bottom of the machine housing. The water gets into the electronics at the rear of the housing and obviously warns you of this by the F1 code?. I removed the white cover over the electronics with a screwdriver by pushing it into a slot then sliding the cover across to the right, it is indicated on the cover how to remove it. I also then removed the screw on top of the PCB (printed circuit board) and lifted up the grey plastic base and wiped under that and the under side of the PCB. The PCB unclips on the left hand end of it and lifts out, try not to pull the cables out though. I then used a hair dryer as suggested by someone else on here to dry out any excess that you could not wipe dry, my daughters Hello Kitty hair dryer didn't last long though, she's not impressed! So try not to stick the dryer right in the housing to avoid overheating it. About 5 minutes did the trick for me, then re-assembled everything, turned it on and hey presto! It worked!!!! Its not that hard, good luck!!!
Posted on Oct 27, 2009
The Ever- So- Helpful Diagnostics Mode -----
Getting into the Diagnostics Mode:
Press the LOCK and START / PAUSE buttons simultaneously and hold for 5 seconds.
The unit will beep once
Press the POWER button once, and you are now in diagnostics mode.
Pressing the START / PAUSE button sequentially advances the machine through the various functions you will want to test.
Start and stop each function by pressing the LOCK button.
A strong word or caution: DO NOT ENERGISE THE HEATER PLATE function (ER) without water in the tub or the heater will burn out.
The tech sheet containing all fault codes, test values, and a schematic is located behind the lower drawer at the back wall.
Exit diagnostics by pressing power off.
Q: F1 ERROR. The unit is beeping, both drawers are flashing F1 and won't stop running.
A: Your appliance has experienced the ubiquitous F1 flood error. The only way to stop the beeping is to remove power. Your course of action depends on the next step. You need to look BEHIND the lower unit drawer. Remove power, then open the lower drawer all the way, and press those plastic tabs (down at the sides, along the bottom and just below the round buttons)- inwards. Now slide the drawer out a couple inches more. You can now see behind the drawer.
Is there water in the catch pan? If no, the Mains Filter Board beneath that plastic cover in the back is bad. It thinks it's flooded while in fact it is not. Replace it. (PN 525959P) It is also remotely possible that one of the wiring harness is faulty.
If there IS water back there, you need to find where it's coming from. Usually, the fill (PN 526836) and drain hoses (PN 527137) are NOT at fault. Go into Diagnostics Mode, and operate the water fill valve (FV), and look for leaks at the valve and along the fill hose as the tub fills.
(You'll want to remove that large plastic cover in the back to see the valves and hoses coming from them. Lift the drawer off its rails and set it off to the left if there's space for it. Upper drawer, set it on top of the bottom drawer).
Operate the drain pump (P2) and look for leaks in the drain line. If no water is seen leaking from those sources, go on to the Lid Motors and the Link Supports.
First inspect the link support (that white plastic rod that spans the tub service lines). They typically snap in two at the mid span point. If it's snapped, there's your problem. Replace it with the updated link support. (PN 528437) Also run the Lid Motors (LD). As they transition up and down, do they respond strongly, or do they sound weak and labored? If the motors are in a white plastic case, you have the old motors and they will need replacing soon anyway. When they grow weak their ability to pull the seal down strongly is diminished (PN's 528112 Top, and 528113 Bottom)
Should you get an F1 error code on the TOP UNIT ONLY, it means that the LOWER UNIT has experienced some failure in the Water Heating Circuit. You will need to test those components to detect what has failed. Get out the trusty schematic and your multimeter!
Posted on Feb 26, 2011
We had exactly the same problem. Our nanny put hand dish wash liquid into the drawer and F1 came on towards the end of the cycle. We did as suggested before:
1) unplug power and remove bottom dish drawer
2) mop up and dry all the excess water underneath
3) remove circuit board cover
4) dry all around and underneath as much as possible
5) apply hairdryer for 10-15min
6) put all back together and turn on - it worked!!!
Great - thanks for all the suggestions!
Swissie and Frogringer
Posted on Dec 03, 2009
Just had F1 code, probably the fourth time in as many years.
Un-plugging from mains removing the bottom draw, remove black cover of circuit board and drying area with hair drying dose the trick most times. Once had to remove circuit board and cleaned over flow sensor? small perpendicular circuit board with an eraser.
Posted on Mar 16, 2008
Yes Fantastic this solved the F1 Fault Code.
1. Turned off power at the isolating switch 2. Pushed in tabs and lifted drawer off runners 3. Dried out flooded area with sponges 4. Air Dried with hair dryer 5. Replaced Drawer 6. Turned power back on (fault had gone) and ran rinse cycle. 7. Re-checked under drawer again to ensure no leaks.
All is now ok
Posted on Jan 08, 2010
F1 problem, replacement of drainage hose and retro fit link support: (Sorry for the long reply but I'm no expert ;)
I had the F1 problem too. Used the directions on pulling out the bottom drawer. Removed the cover over the flood sensor and dried out with the hair drier. Put it all back together and top drawer ran fine. Ran the bottom drawer again and F1 came back.
Sure enough, on closer inspection the bottom drawer drainage hose had cracked. Quite fiddly to remove the old one. Note: You can only get a replacement hose from an authorised parts supplier. This is due to the narrow diameter of the hose and the couple which joins the pump under the drawer. Before you throw the old one out, make sure you remove the small rubber valve. It would appear to prevent backflow into the pump and is not supplied with the replacement.
I didn't totally remove the clear housing from the motor assembly, but was able to remove it part way and gently open it enough to get the old hose out. In order to more easily complete the fit of the new hose, I would recommend carefully removing the whole unit from the wall cavity. Make sure you disconnect the inlet hose, power and drainage hoses under your sink. This allows the unit to move freely from the cavity without damaging anything. There are four securing tabs inside the bottom drawer cavity which need to be removed to do this. (All quite clear in the instruction manual).
If you are at this stage I would also recommend installing the 'retro fit link support'. It is much more practical and robust when compared to the plastic one the originally came with the unit. It has a metal rod and a mount that fits into the corner of the draw cavity. Makes much more sense than the plastic rod. Mine broke anyway when I had reassembled the unit so I had to as a matter of course.
Now running well again. Fingers crossed.
Hopefully this assists someone :)
Posted on Feb 16, 2010
We have a 2 draw f&p F1 code with a spanner shown on display.I removed bottom draw as suggested by pushing 2 tabs at the bottom of the bottom draw just behind the stainless steel face.Once this was done lift off the tracks and push them into the unit out of the way for the moment.Rotate the draw upside down on a towel and alow to drain.You will now be looking at a smokey tint clear cover which is covering the electronics.STOP make sure the plug is out of the socket dont die yet you havent fixed the problem otherwise the bride will kill you.not.Anyway remove this cover starting at the draw face far left and far right.Get a small flat blade screwdriver and get under the blue plastic and gentley allow the appropriate side to lift then around the centre pry the tabs in and before you now it it will pivot on the rear.Get the hair dryer and paper towels in there and dry that ****** out.Dont forget to dry the floor of the unit.YOUVE DONE IT. now reverse the procedure put it back together and start it up fingers crossed she like a bought one.Like me beginners luck,GOOD LUCK.
Posted on Jan 25, 2010
U have to take the bottom drawer out and dry all the water out
Posted on Jan 25, 2009
Important thing to check when you regularaly get an F1 Fault.
The way the cabinets lock is due to a lid being drawn down via a little motor.gear unit onto the washer cabinet and a rubber seal ensures water does not blast out around the top edge.
Ensure the seal around the lid is sealing correctly. Of course that is not something you can see. So with the drawer open, run your finger around the seal and make sure the little lip in the rubber is even all the way around, clean and fully intact. The Seals can bend backwards and fail to to stop water being driven out under the lid. This allows water to drip down over the back of the washing drawer and flood the bottom floor and then set off your alarm.
Point number two, do not put any coating over the sensor. It works by sensing a small electric current between the sensor and the metal base of the machine. If you smear grease or paint any coating over that little strip of solder, it will fail to sense.
Posted on Aug 25, 2010
My Top draw wont start it beeps 2 times i have checked all hoses My model is DD60DDFX6
Posted on Feb 07, 2010
The above advice (remove drawer, mop and apply hairdryer to circuit board) worked a treat - thanks!
Posted on Feb 16, 2010
Read down the list for details : these solutions work. I MOPPED out the excess water top and bottom (after removing the drawers). And I used a fan-heater to dry everything out : because you won't see me sitting around with a hair dryer !!
Posted on Jan 10, 2011
How I fixed F1 Problem
Seemed to be happening when humidity was high - not so much a flood - fixed by removing power pc board which flood switch is attached and applying generous dose of lanoline oil from aerosol can to cover all over
have had no traouble since and humidity has been extremely high for week or so since ie > 80%
give it go and good luck
Posted on Feb 28, 2010
My dishwasher had a f1 fault coming up all the time. After i removed card and dried the machine the fault was clear running the top draw but would come on as soon as I run the bottom draw. After drying the card several times I discovered that water had got into the card between the card and the clear sealant on the under side of the circuit board.I cearfully removed the sealant cleaned the card with card spray (**** smith) and sprayed the area with electrical varnish(**** smith)
Posted on Apr 10, 2010
Linkages to guide hosing deteriorate + crack over time + will cause a problem over time- hoses get caught between drawer and lid on top of the drawer. Solution - repair perished sections of linkages to guide hoses.
Posted on Aug 06, 2007
No solution ! HELP
Posted on Aug 08, 2009
Hairdryer worked perfectly for me! I drilled a hole near the circuit board in the pan to stop it flooding again. I'd much rather see water coming out of the bottom of the machine and know there's a problem, before it floods the 240v circuit board. Engineers are really idiotic sometimes.
Posted on Dec 14, 2014
I've got F1 on red screen with pump starting few seconds after plugging the cord into wall socket, net even pressing any power button. This is in the top draw only, bottom draw works perfectly. Dishwasher is DD601v2.
Got the bottom draw removed, flood sensor checked, it is made of two switches in a box activated by a plastic t-shape arm by the light white plastic pad that is floating up water would be present.
Posted on Apr 16, 2013
The info above was very helpful but to a non-fixy type person, very daunting! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UXzuJvKIIgU This helped in "showing" me what to do exactly as I had the F1 code after using normal dish washing liquid instead of dish powder. We disconnected the power, pulled the single drawer out as far as it would go, then had to use pliers to turn the plug, pushed in the button (on both sides of the drawer) and the dish drawer was released. We pulled it out and then we saw the water! Paper towel mopped up what we could, then a hair dryer to fully dry it out. And hey presto it's working!!!!! THANKYOU, we are very grateful for your help!
Posted on Aug 04, 2012
I overfilled the machine or had dish soap on one of the glasses, which caused the F1 code beeping that will drive one crazy. I want to thank everyone for giving solutions. I pulled the drawer pushing in the buttons at the bottom of the drawer first and pulled it out enough to 'see' water in the pan underneath the dish drawer with a flashlight. There was water! I used my Rainbow vacuum to **** up the water; then used a blow dryer for about 10 minutes aimed towards the pan for about 10 minutes. I double checked the upper drawer. It was dry. I flipped back on the breaker. Pushed back in the drawers and the machine quit beeping and started right up. Thank you all for posting a solution. I hated to call a tech.
Posted on Feb 08, 2012
You guys rock !!!!!! Problem fixed!!!! Thanks.
Posted on Jul 07, 2010
F1 problem, no water in bottom,new flood switch circuit board,still f1 error only on top drawer, bottom draw runs fine,if flood switch wouldnt error be on both drawers??
Posted on Jun 24, 2010
Thank you guys, did as suggested with F1 fault, removed lower draw and 10 mins on hot wih hair dryer... Worked a treat !!
Posted on Apr 25, 2010
I just had the very same problem. This suggestion worked perfectly and saved me a ton on a service call. Thanks so much :-)
Posted on Jul 17, 2007
F2 comes up on bottom draw
Posted on Jan 26, 2010
Hi I have just fixed the very same problem , I over stacked the dishwasher which alowed it to overflow and set off flooding sensor. Remedy 1 open dishwasher fully open 2 dry up as much water as possible 3 put a hair dryer on hot and direct into the back of the cabinet you will see a grey plastic cover on the bottom floor this is the sensor run on full for about 5 - 10 minutes making sure the heat go into that erea. Also dont overheat your hair dryer, when finnished close the dishwasher shut and start your normal cycle. The F1 and spanner should be gone it worked for me first time and 100% PAUL
Posted on Jun 20, 2007
Call the company and book a service call! the flood sensor will corrode.
Posted on Jul 23, 2007
Hi I have just fixed the very same problem , I over stacked the dishwasher which alowed it to overflow and set off flooding sensor. Remedy 1 open dishwasher fully open 2 dry up as much water as possible 3 put a hair dryer on hot and direct into the back of the cabinet you will see a grey plastic cover on the bottom floor this is the sensor run on full for about 5 - 10 minutes making sure the heat go into that erea. Also dont overheat your hair dryer, when finnished close the dishwasher shut and start your normal cycle. The F1 and spanner should be gone it worked for me first time and 100%
Posted on Sep 15, 2008
It would seem to be in an endless loop (firmware glitch). Initially, pls try:
Hope this be of initial help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need additional information.
Good luck and kind regards. Thank you for using FixYa.
Posted on Sep 15, 2008
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