Question about Zanussi FS1155W Front Load Washer
MY HAIRE WASHING MACHINE WONT SPIN MODEL NUMBER HW-C1460TVEME-U
If your washer won't spin, check these:
It doesn't pump or spin If it doesn't pump water out or spin, check to see if the motor is running, then proceed as follows:
Posted on Oct 01, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: washing machine won't spin
Why won't my washer spin? There are several reasons for this fault. First a washer will not spin if there is water in the tub. If this is the case, then check “Why won't my washer empty?”. Even though the washer might have emptied the water, the machine might be misled into 'thinking' there is still water left in the machine due to a blocked pressure barrel (see “My washer is leaking, why?”). If the belt has become detached or loose, the drum will not spin, nor will it spin if you have a faulty motor, module or timer. Usually a motor will have carbon brushes which slowly wear away. There needs to be enough material left to touch the commutator and have enough spring left in them to make sure there is a good contact. If the brushes in the motor are OK then you need to check the circuit across the terminals on the motor, because there is a thermal overload switch inside which may have tripped. Should the motor be OK, or be the type that doesn't have brushes (induction), then the chances are you need to test the speed control module. This is a circuit board that directly controls the speed of the motor. It may be found on or near the timer, or sometimes at the base of the machine, and usually requires specialist equipment to determine its worthiness.
Posted on Dec 12, 2007
SOURCE: Washing Machine Will not Spin
I just finished completely disassmbling my machine for the exact same reason you mentioned. And I mean completely. Not a screw still in place. It took 4 hours.
Turns out in my case that electrolysis is the problem.
What I mean by this is that behind the inner drum is a three pronged heavy metal piece made from galvanized steel which attaches to the inner drum by 6 large screws. Coming out of the center of this is a post which comes through the plastic drum housing into the back of the machine and hooks to the assembly your belt runs on. (This wheel for the belt looks a bit like a tire wheel well but thinner.)
What the problem is for me is that the piece inside that attaches to the drum (the galvanized steel one) has completely corroded from electrolysis and broken. All three prongs have completely broken off making it impossible for the drum to turn. I am a little irritated with GE at the moment because had they used an appropriate metal, knowing it would be constantly bathed by the water from the laundry loads, I would not be in this predicament. I am a little disturbed that a 15 lb metal part has broken before the rubber belt even wore out!
I mysel am on here right now trying to find the exact name of this part and possibly a part number so I can order it and replace it. My basement is currently a compete mess from this project and I have laundry waiting to be done.
I am also looking to see if maybe this just might be a recall situation where we can get some help with getting the part due to what I feel is faulty manufacturing.
Should I come up with any of these answers I will come back on here and share them with you.
In the meantime, unless you have the appropriate tools, plenty of time and plenty of patience, I don't suggest tearing into your machine like I have. It may be worth calling a appliance repair place for you.
If you want to be certain that this is in fact the same problem with your washer, open your machine and see if you can freely move the drum around by pushing on it. If it isn't a good solid middle of the machine spin and has play in it wear you can lift the drum a bit in any direction, we have the same problem.
Just from your description, I am betting we do.
I hope this is helpful, and I'll let you know what I find out!
Posted on Jan 13, 2008
i dont believe it is the agitator per say. Assuming this problem has just started and doesnt have transportation bolts still attatched. Two conditions cause the imballance. 1)(if unit is a top loader) Check if all 4 shock absorber springs are well lubricated and not sticking. 2)A more involved problem which often happens, Underneath the washer, is the drive motor. on the motor, is a round pulley. this pulley needs to come off and strip further until you see a long spring. If it is not broken, clean it up using a solvent and a rag. reassemble and test. (if spring is defective, it will slip instead of grip on a spin cycle.
Posted on Sep 17, 2009
This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.
First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
Enter your model number (###.#######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.
The Kenmore / Whirlpool top load uses a reversing motor to initiate the pump for draining and the transmission to spin.
If you cannot hear the motor trying to turn the pump, (but the washer will agitate) the problem points to the Timer, or the Lid Switch.
Try to bypass the Lid Switch by removing the Console and jumping the two outermost pins on the switch.
Following is a description of how to release the console for access to the pins.
This is a Whirlpool PDF on how these washers operate. It has a diagram on jumping the switch as well as a detailed section on how the transmission works.
It also has a troubleshooting guide.
To bypass the switch, you only have to disconnect the power to the washer, tilt the console back, unplug the switch and using an short piece of insulated wire, jump the two outermost contacts on the connector coming from the console and plug the washer back in.
Following is a description of how to gain access to the console and how to remove the cabinet if necessary.
With the jumper in place, try to re-start the washer.
If it works, the Lid Switch is a relatively inexpensive part.
If the problem isn't in the switch, and the Timer continues to move, the problem is likely in the transmission.
We had the same problem:
If you lift the lid, put it down again and the washer begins to spin, the problem is likely in the transmission "Neutral Drain Assembly".
Those cams/gears etc. in that assembly keep the washer from spinning until all of the water is pumped out and then go into spin mode.
Apparently, by opening and closing the lid, torque from the motor starting throws the cams into the right gears so that the washer will spin.
Ours had the same problem, no spin unless the lid was raised and lowered or we shut off and re-started the cycle.
After looking at the transmission parts list (available on a number of sites) and on the Whirlpool site (Whirlpool makes Kenmore) we noticed that the one of the cams in the neutral assembly which is supposed to have a small spring, didn't on ours when we tore the transmission apart again
Found the part number for a kit (Whirlpool part number 388253 Neutral Assembly) for $15.00 and replaced the cams and gears.
In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators. The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt (a 1/2" socket extension works well).
You don't have to remove the drum.
Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside.
Remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission.
Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main
agitator shaft), remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 14 - 15Oz of oil, remove the clip holding the main spin gear on and check the plastic cams.
If the cam that should have a spring doesn't, or the others look damaged, or the main spin gear is damaged the washer won't go into spin mode.
If that's the problem, install a Neutral drain kit, put everything back together carefully and the problem may be solved.
As an aside, fixing ours cost less than $30 including 80-90 weight gear oil vs. $170 for a new transmission.
Posted on Jan 12, 2010
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