Kenmore high capacitwasher elite fills starts wash cycle and then misses other cycle drains water! Is it the lid switch or mother red?

James Greene

• 240 Answers
• Posted on Dec 06, 2007

SOURCE: kenmore top load (model # 110 82370120) drain problem

Good AM. I see here that you have a fairly old belt drive Kenmore washer. The real problem with these is that the parts for them are so very expensive anymore to get. A timer (which you may be needing) will run you around $100.00 to $175.00 depending on where you live. Very expensive repairs on these, but if you want to go for it, here are some hints to help. Sounds like you have one of three problems. First off PLEASE UNPLUG YOUR MACHINE BEFORE WORKING ON IT. Your timer may have lost or has a stuck contact inside (unrepairable in most cases) which is making it do something is shouldnt be doing in that area of the timer. This would probably be the most expensive of your repair. The next thing is it could be the water level switch could be going bad. This one is highly doubtful since it fills and stops filling, but I have heard (but never have seen) that they can short out sometimes and cause wacky operation. Both these issues can be fixed by remove the console rear panel and front knobs to remove both. The next item could be a defective wig-wag in the bottom of the unit. One of the positioning solinoids maybe going bad and sending bad signals back to the timer.


None of these problems are really hard to fix. And truthfully (even though some of these guys will be mad) you can sometimes find these parts on ebay for a halfway good price. Part numbers for each are:

Timer: 381860
Water Level Switch: 359712
Wig-Wag: 89814

Good luck with this one, and if you know how to use one, try to run resistance with an ohm-meter on your wig-wag to be sure your getting power flow through the soilnoids (you will have 2, be sure to unplug the solinoids before testing to be sure its a true test) before replacing.

SOURCE: Kenmore Elite Washer Problem

This is a common symptom of a defective lid switch. If you try opening and closing the lid and do not hear a distinctive "clicking" sound, your lid switch may need to be replaced. Some lid switches are located on the right-hand side of the lid opening with a small slot. It is activated by a plastic piece called a “lid strike” on the lid itself. Make sure the lid strike is not broken off. This will keep the switch from not working. On some model washers the lid switch is located on the left-hand side, in the rear, mounted under the casing near the lid hinge. It is activated by a rod on the lid hinge. Sometimes the rod can be adjusted if it is not making good contact with the switch. In either case, if the switch is not activated, it will allow the washer to fill and maybe agitate, but will not start the rinse or drain cycles. If you diagnose it and wish to attempt the repair yourself, the switch costs about $35 and is fairly simple to replace if you follow the steps below:

First of all, unplug your washer. You will need to remove the console in order to get to the lid switch. I believe your washer has release tabs under the console at each front corner. Simply slide a putty knife straight in from the front at each corner and push in while lifting up. You should feel the release tabs push in and the console will pop up. Or, you may have a console that has removable end caps. They can be removed by gently prying up on the top of them from the rear on each side. You may have to use a small screwdriver for this. The caps should pop right off. Once removed, you will need to loosen a screw under each cap. Once you have the console loosened, carefully lift it up and lay it back over the rear panel of the washer in its resting position. Be careful not to damage the small plastic hinges that hold it in place.

Now you will need to perform the following steps:

1. Under the console you will find the lid switch connector. Unplug the switch from the connector.

2. There will be two brass colored clips. You will need to remove these to remove the machine casing. Place a flat blade screwdriver straight down into the opening on top of the washer and into the groove of the clip. Push the screwdriver away from you while holding into the groove and the clip will release.

3. Open the lid of the washer and place your hand under the front rim of the opening (DO NOT grab the wash tub). Now pull the case from the frame by lifting from the back first.

You do not have to remove it all the way from the frame. Just enough to gain access to the switch. All there is to the switch is a couple of screws holding it in and a ground wire. It's a pretty easy repair job. NOTE: You DO NOT have to drain the tub to repair the lid switch.

Once you've completed your switch installation, make sure you get the case back on the frame correctly by following these steps:

1. While looking down through the lid opening, place the front lip of the machine case UNDER the washer frame and start leaning it back onto the frame. There are four small cleats that must fit into four slots on the case or the washer will vibrate. Make sure the frame is seated properly, lean forward from the front of the washer, grasp both sides of the rear panel and pull towards the case. The rear panel should be seated and flush with the casing before inserting the retaining clips.

2. Insert the brass-colored clips into the slot on the washer rear panel first, then push straight down into the opening on the top of the washer with some force. If you have the case seated correctly, the clips will snap back in.

3. Make sure you plug the connector from the console back into the lid switch receptacle and close the console.

I hope you find this helpful. If you have any questions or need help locating the correct part, please let me know by posting comments.

SOURCE: Softener tray filling with water

open the dispenser all the way,place your finger towards the back left of dispenser.you should see a tab,depress the tab and pull entire dispenser cup out.the bleach and fab soft part of the disp has a removable tray.clean all pieces out including the long shafts on the insert.you will more than likely find a build up of softener,this breaks the siphon and does not allow the water to drain out.good luck

SOURCE: i have a kenmore elite

I have a kenmore elite washer. whwn on spin cycle it does not spin and als o will no agitate. There is a loud noise wen on spin cycle. Please help

SOURCE: my kenmore elite oasis runs fine but wont go through spin cycle

Try replacing the motor coupler between the motor and pump three small pieces about 18.00 dollars at sears parts store.