Installing a shower base floor

Billy, Click on and read the links provided to learn how to tile a floor.
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http://novafloor.us/installation-guides
http://novafloor.us/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/Installation-Guidelines-for-Direct-Glue-Tile_Grout-v2-10_2015.pdf
http://novalis-intl.us/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/LUXURY-VINYL-TILE-INSTALLATION-GUIDE.pdf

I would just cut enough to install the pan by the way does the drain line hook to this pan? that will give it support as wwell

should not be a huge issue to trim off the bottom nailer... trim off with a razor knife being careful not to penetrate the frame. the primary concern is providing support to the frame. Using mortar and wood shims, layer mortar where the window will sit and level it using the wood shims, leaving space to remove the shims after the mortar sets... I'd recommend using screws to afix the remaining fins to the studs to lessen the loss of mortar from shifting the window during install

~~~~] shim [~~~~mortar~~~~] shim [~~~

You need to install whatever will function best to get the skirt raised up to match.

Rod
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Hello. When you say basement side, I assume you are referring to the underneath. There are a number of options available, all hinge on the conditions you have.

1) Plenty Of Room: The best scenario. You can install a solid cross brace (preferably the same material as your joists) across spanning from one joist to another under the seam. Nail (best method - due to ability to handle potential shear stresses) cross brace in as secure as possible to the floor boards. Once that is done, lightly drive in a shim or two coated both sides with a little (this stuff goes a long way!) construction adhesive.

2) Same as Above, But Pipes Run Through: Either use a solid cross brace that will fit (ie 2x3) and treat the same as above, or use the 2x2 method where they are installed diagonally, but directly underneath the seam and shim. This should remove most of the squeak.

3) Not So Much Room, But Still Workable: (ie no pipes but limited access) Build an "H" frame that will span between joists, and the cross piece will do the same as #1. Secure in any manner you can, but ensure that it is secure on both sides of each support. Then shim and glue.

4) Can't Cross Brace: Not the greatest solution, but sometimes necessary. This one depends solely on the knowledge you have of the materials used... specifically their thickness'. Cut a piece of 5/8 inch (3/4 inch is better) plywood that will fit into the beam spaces under the seam. Be sure that they span about 6 to 8 inch on either side of the seam using screws (prefferably the kind meant for wet applications). NOTE: some shower bases are installed on a concrete/thin-set curb, this means that the screws must not penetrate the sub floor OSB. So, if your flooring material is only 5/8 inch, your overall screw length should not exceed 5/8 plus material used. (ie 5/8 + 5/8 is 1 and 1/4 inch maximum. Ideally 1 inch only) After all we only want the screws to hold. Before securing the brace, spread a good construction adhesive on it (I am a big fan of PL Premium).


If you are referring to the other side of a wall, and the shower is on the lowest level, there isn't much available in my experience. I have seen some similar issues involve: removing the silicone around the base and securing that. This involves drilling some of the material out on one side of the seam, filling with a two part epoxy, using heavy weights to secure the floor down, and shaping the epoxy smooth so the caulking will cover. This never does the job completely as access to the seam is limited.

These methods are a few suggestions that should help the issue. If they help out, please rate this answer a four thumbs-up. Thank you and good luck.

There are two ways that I would do it depending on the width of the ledge on top of shower base. If you have enouch room I would shim studs with strips of material thick enough to bring the surface out even with flange on shower base. Then I would put cement board(wonder board) on wall and over shower flange to set on top of shower base. Finish seams on wall board per manufacturers directions,Let seam filler dry then seal with thompsons water seal or equivalent sealer. Let that dry then tile on that grouting and sealing with quality caulk at joint between shower base and tile.
If ledge on shower base is not wide enough then I would place cement board directly to studs then use filler strips on face of shower base flange to bring two surfaces flush. Water seal let dry and tile again coming down over top of shower. Grout and caulk to finish. P.S. I would use a siliconized latex emulsifier to mix in with grout. It gives a better ware proof seal. Hope this helps you. Good luck and thank you.

Hi, As with most shower trays, you must bed the tray down onto a suitable floor ( ie; solid and dry) surface using a bedding down mixture. Weak mix sand and cement is ideal for this purpose. Mix sand and cement at a ratio of about 5 or 6 to 1 and spread out on to the area where the tray is going. NOTE: it is important that the mixture is spread out evenly and touches all of the underside of the tray. Make sure you seal the floor a day before using a water and PVA glue sealant mixture so that the mortar will stick. Tap down the tray BY HAND or by using your fist, and use a spirit level on all four edges until the tray is completely level ( or as near as you can get it) I have provided a link for you with the full installation instructions. Hope this was of help to you.
http://www.americh.com/site/index.php?option=com_docman&task=cat_view&gid=19&Itemid=12

not sure what an 'oil can' sound is... but ... if it is popping and creaking when you step into the shower then the base is not properly supported. there is a a gap or two between your floor and the base of the shower floor.

the base plate may be shimmed, but that unit was designed for 1/2" and 3/4" however, the Bostitch MFN201 Manual Flooring Cleat Nailer Kit will install 1/2"- 5/8" & 3/4"