20 Most Recent Maax Acrylic Base for Shower - 102623 Questions & Answers

There are two ways that I would do it depending on the width of the ledge on top of shower base. If you have enouch room I would shim studs with strips of material thick enough to bring the surface out even with flange on shower base. Then I would put cement board(wonder board) on wall and over shower flange to set on top of shower base. Finish seams on wall board per manufacturers directions,Let seam filler dry then seal with thompsons water seal or equivalent sealer. Let that dry then tile on that grouting and sealing with quality caulk at joint between shower base and tile.
If ledge on shower base is not wide enough then I would place cement board directly to studs then use filler strips on face of shower base flange to bring two surfaces flush. Water seal let dry and tile again coming down over top of shower. Grout and caulk to finish. P.S. I would use a siliconized latex emulsifier to mix in with grout. It gives a better ware proof seal. Hope this helps you. Good luck and thank you.

Silicone.

Supply stores, lowes, home depot sell two part epoxy for fixing this. Although epoxy says for porcelain it can be used on other types of materials. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/frankie_091f536560a54e12

Check really close to make sure there is not a small crack in the base. Many times they can barely be seen and when you stand in the shower they open up larger allowing water to leak out. You may have to have someone else stand inside while you look for the crack.

Depending on your level of skill and desire to have an invisible repair you have a few options. From easiest and worst looking to harder/expensive Use a marine epoxy, like marine tex or super mend. This could look Ok depending on your skill you can get an acrylic/fiberglass repair kit. or you could get someone who fixes hot tubs and bath fixtures to do it
and hire a better class of drywallers :)

Hello, You shouldn't have to resort to that extreme. The drain unit that the retainer sits in is the part securing the base down, have a look at the diagram in this link: http://www.maax.com/Upload/docs/premium/technical/en/000_10014442_0904-2_E.pdf

The drain assembly should unthread and release the base. But sometimes they tend to work as designed.

The retainer is a compression fit (or should be... do you know the installer? they may have deviated from the described installation). Assuming a proper install, use a flat-head screwdriver and a utility knife to seperate the inside portion of the rubber seal of the retainer, from the plastic ring. The ring should now be able to be pried out, and the drain portion unthreaded.

If this helped, please rate a four-thumbs up. Thank You.

Hello. You're not going to believe this, but MAXX says that the drain and the wall pannels (glued) will keep it in place if the floor is properly leveled before. Personally, when I installed mine (model 105525 - exactly the same installation instructions) I used silicone on the base at each stud area. it's secure, but not permanent, and won't allow an area for a crack to form.

Hope this helps.

Hello. When you say basement side, I assume you are referring to the underneath. There are a number of options available, all hinge on the conditions you have.

1) Plenty Of Room: The best scenario. You can install a solid cross brace (preferably the same material as your joists) across spanning from one joist to another under the seam. Nail (best method - due to ability to handle potential shear stresses) cross brace in as secure as possible to the floor boards. Once that is done, lightly drive in a shim or two coated both sides with a little (this stuff goes a long way!) construction adhesive.

2) Same as Above, But Pipes Run Through: Either use a solid cross brace that will fit (ie 2x3) and treat the same as above, or use the 2x2 method where they are installed diagonally, but directly underneath the seam and shim. This should remove most of the squeak.

3) Not So Much Room, But Still Workable: (ie no pipes but limited access) Build an "H" frame that will span between joists, and the cross piece will do the same as #1. Secure in any manner you can, but ensure that it is secure on both sides of each support. Then shim and glue.

4) Can't Cross Brace: Not the greatest solution, but sometimes necessary. This one depends solely on the knowledge you have of the materials used... specifically their thickness'. Cut a piece of 5/8 inch (3/4 inch is better) plywood that will fit into the beam spaces under the seam. Be sure that they span about 6 to 8 inch on either side of the seam using screws (prefferably the kind meant for wet applications). NOTE: some shower bases are installed on a concrete/thin-set curb, this means that the screws must not penetrate the sub floor OSB. So, if your flooring material is only 5/8 inch, your overall screw length should not exceed 5/8 plus material used. (ie 5/8 + 5/8 is 1 and 1/4 inch maximum. Ideally 1 inch only) After all we only want the screws to hold. Before securing the brace, spread a good construction adhesive on it (I am a big fan of PL Premium).


If you are referring to the other side of a wall, and the shower is on the lowest level, there isn't much available in my experience. I have seen some similar issues involve: removing the silicone around the base and securing that. This involves drilling some of the material out on one side of the seam, filling with a two part epoxy, using heavy weights to secure the floor down, and shaping the epoxy smooth so the caulking will cover. This never does the job completely as access to the seam is limited.

These methods are a few suggestions that should help the issue. If they help out, please rate this answer a four thumbs-up. Thank you and good luck.

They sell a white marine epoxy which may be suitable for the repair you describe. If I
needed to sand it afterward I would use 2000 grit wet dry to feather the edges. Hope this
helps. The epoxy is sold at home depot in the paint department. You could also check
with someone who does gel coat repairs on boats through your local marine dealer.

You will need to find a repair sorce in your area this is not a projected you want to take on unless you have all the tools to repair it.

Question edited for clarity. Combine 3 posts into 1 Post. Delete two duplicate posts. Refresh page to see your question. Better to order direct from Maax to be sure of the part and get warranty. They are expensive. Model 4343 doesn't appear to be a valid product https://www.google.com/search?q=Maax+Rainforest+shower+4343+parts

Shower And Door Replacement Parts - Maax

Maax https://maax.com > services > replacement-parts You can now buy shower replacement parts for MAAX showers, doors and kits online. Shop Now. Find the replacement part you need. Missing: 4343 ‎' Show results with: 4343

Shower And Door Replacement Parts

MAAX Canada https://maax.ca > services > replacement-parts You can now buy shower replacement parts for MAAX showers, doors and kits online. Shop Now. Find the replacement part you need. ..

To find out more about replacement components, get in touch with MAAX directly or go to their website. You might be able to obtain the precise control panel you require from one of their authorized dealers or distributors.It will ensure you get an original one

This video doesn't show needing cement - Maax Professional Installation Video KDS Series

Several youtube videos show installation: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hc8EgoIEvOo https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XbuWq9E-bhs

and what is your question --if you want to complain notify the company

https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.insight-pivot-shower-door-34-12---36-12-inches.1000666769.html

There are 2 types of litghly cover. A twist off (1/4) turn and a some pry off. It shouldn't be required hi torque. Try twist off first counter clockwise

Generally the drains that are controlled from the OVER-FLOW do indeed have a rod that goes down from the face of the overflow... which lifts (opens) the drain by lifting a hollow (typically plastic) sleeve from in front of the outflow of the drain... It is hollow to allow the OVERFLOW to work at all times. The version you seem to have... WOULD have a bellows like device that pushes on a plug lever... More complex... but I seriously believe both may be serviced through the OVERFLOW (will attach a drawing below)... OBVIOUSLY you will want to block the drain before rolling & dropping screws in, on & around the drain HOLE... Once you see the diagram of the drain MECHANISM... you will be able to see that jamming in a coat-hanger was a terrible idea. You can still most likely remove and repair the mechanism ... (from the over-flow) ELSE You are looking at buying a new one and installing the entire drain from the bottom (hopefully). Diagram of drains: Go to Bing homepage Carnac the Magnificent

Good tips, but I haven't seen this answered yet. We just bought a house with a Maax tub. The drain is not a pop down, pop up deal. You push in a button in the overflow to raise the drain plug. But the vacuum of the drain pulls it down again. So you have to hold the plug in the entire time it takes to drain. I'm told something can be adjusted for this, but I'm not a plumber, and so far it's not obvious.

Use structo-lite. Its easier to work with and much lighter. You want enough to make contact with the bottom of tub.