The black wire in the cable to connect in the wall is disconnected in the circuits board where it is suppose to be connected?

Connect the remote controller cable to

the wired remote controller installation board as shown in the right picture. 12V SIG GND Red wire Yellow wire Black wire 12V SIG GND 4. After fixing the

top part of the remote controller to the installation board as shown in beside picture, press the bottom part to assemble the controller to it's board. When

disassembling the remote controller from the installation board, use the driver as shown in the right picture and insert it into the hole with the arrow. And

when you pull the driver in the front direction, the remote controller will be separated. Wall Side Wall Side ENGLISH Red Yellow Black Remote Controller

Cable ?The remote controller cable is connected as factory default. Wall Side Wall Side 2. After fixing the cable to the guide slot, attach the wired remote

controller installation board at the desired location.

Just apply the excellent solution of "dskum" that I am reproducing here:

dskum

I had the same sub and I started hunting down the problem by disabling \'sectional\' parts of the circuit to find out whats causing the problem. The problem was narrowed down to the small \'limiter\' circuit which is soldered vertically on the Pre-Amp. (The wire from power amp connects to it)

As far me, the limiter circuit doesn\'t add much value, if you are careful enough not to push the subwoofer to its peak limits. There is a 7 wire bus which connects the Pre-Amp (top board) to the power amplifier (bottom board). In that 6 wires are just direct connection from pre-to- power amp board. The pre-amp output goes through the limiter. (1st black wire).

To remove the limiter from circuit just physically remove the limiter board by de-soldering the 7 pins through which its connected to pre-amp. Also you may\'ve to clean up the glue around to easily remove it. Disconnect the 7 wire connector from the limiter and solder it directly to the pre-amp board. (Only 6 black wires need to be connected.) Check the picture. Also as part of experiment I replaced the power filter capacitors with slightly bigger capacity. (But its not necessary - the glue on the old capacitors made it look like it was bulged - but its not).

The white wire (limiter feedback) is not necessary and that can be disconnected or cut off for good. All the popup/crackling/thumping it was making is gone and the sub is working great again. (Yes it was doing so even without any inputs).

While de-soldering make sure don\'t apply too much heat. The boards are pretty weak and you might easily damage the solder pads.

WhiWh

Whil Also don\'t use any kind of diode or mess with it the limiter circuit. Just removing the limiter circuit makes it good. If you use diode to directly connect the pre-amp line to power line as suggested earlier you might be damaging it more than its currently since you are almost connecting to the 42 v rails to it. Also if you google you would come across the service manual if you are interested in the circuit diagram.

[img src="http://i.fixya.net/uploads/images/b55bdd89-3c1f-4af5-931f-2dd86e3440d4.jpg" alt="b55bdd89-3c1f-4af5-931f-2dd86e3440d4.jpg">

I wish we had more information to go on here.

1) You have 2 cables to to the Heat-Vent-Light
One cable is 12-3 and 1 cable is 12-3

2) That's where it's gets fuzzy.
What color wires are on HentVentLight?
Is power at the ceiling box or at the wall box?
What other wires are inside the wall box?
What kind of switch are you installing?

3) With that number of wires, it sounds like power is at ceiling box.
Power would arrive at ceiling box on one cable that has a Hot-black and Neutral-white wire.

4) Start at wall box:
Let's suppose you are installing a wall device that has 3 individual switches, with one switch for each HentVentLight.
The Hot wire from ceiling box would drop down into wall box on a black wire, and this wire connects to brass screw on switch.
Wire going to heater connects to one of the silver screws.
Wire to fan to another silver screw
Wire to light to another silver screw.

5) Work at ceiling box:
Let's suppose your HentVentLight has 4 wires: Black for light, Red for fan, Blue for heater, and White Neutral.
The white neutral connects to Neutral wire as described in #3.
Black, Red and Blue connect to each of the wires that come up from switch.

Add a comment for more free help, and fill in the missing information.

Also take advantage of fixya phone service.
For a price, expert speaks with you over phone while you work on timer or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.

I answer questions for free.
I specialize in timers and electrical devices.
My answer might ask for more information, and you can add a comment and we can go further.
The RT1 is a digital countdown timer rated for 120Volt 600 watts.

1) You need to consider the wattage of your jacuzzi circuit.
If circuit operates a motor, then check the nameplate on that motor for wattage.
The RT1 is too lightweight for 756Watt 1HP motor.
The RT1 will not work on a 240Volt circuit.
If the circuit operates lights only, then add up the wattage of your bulbs.

The Pass-Seymour site does not have a manual for the product that describes the intended purpose of the timer. For example some timers say 'incandescent only.'

2) Understand your wiring so we can get a timer that works:
You have a 2 gang box.
The box has a GFCI and no other device.
The GFCI has 4 screws
One cable enters box from breaker box with black and white ... and these wires connect to GFCI
One cable enters box from jacuzzi with black and white ... and these wires connect to GFCI

3) If the circuit is 120V.
Next we are going to talk about the cable going to jacuzzi.
Disconnect black wire going to jacuzzi.
Timer-black connects where this wire was connected.
Timer-red wire connects to black wire going to jacuzzi

The timer-white connects to the same screw that white-wire-going-to-jacuzzi connects to.
So there are two white wires on one screw.

If RT1 is too lightweight
You need a countdown timer rated for the circuit.
Intermatic makes a spring-wound FD series countdown timer that is rated for 2 HP

The Intermatic FD series timers can also be used if jacuzzi is 240Volt
http://www.intermatic.com/products/timers/in-wall%20timers/decorator%20spring%20wound%20timers.aspx

Add a comment, and I will help with more detailed information how to connect the FD series timers and answer any question about the FD.

I answer questions for free.
I know electric wiring.
However I might not understand your problem.
If I do not understand your problem, add a comment with more information and I will respond.

If I understand correctly you want to add a new switch and a new light in your garage.
And you are starting from scratch with no knowledge.
You are starting with a blank wall.

I do not know what a consummer unit is.
Is that a type of light?

Here's a sketch of the project:
We need an electrical receptacle or wall-plug so we can get electricity.
We need to run a cable from the electrical wall-plug to the switch.
This will bring electricity to your switch.
And then we need to run a cable to the light.

Let's talk about how you get electricity from the wall-plug.
The wall plug has a black and white wire connected to each side.
Your cable has a black and white wire.
You connect your black wire with the black side.
Connect white to the white side.

Now run the cable to your switch.
The cable arrives at the switch.
The cable has a black and white wire.
The switch is wired differently than the wall-plug.
On the switch you connect one black wire.
But the white is not connected to switch.

Now we're ready for the cable going to the light.
The cable to the light has a black and white wire.
Connect the black to the switch.
So now you have 2 black wires connected to the switch.
The black wires are on different screws.
And then connect the two white wires together.

So the switch is wired.
Run the cable to your light.
The cable arrives at the light.
The cable still has a black and a white wire.
Your light will have wires -or- it will have screws.

If light has black and white wires, then connect black to black and white to white.

If your switch has screws, then connect black to brass-screw and white to silver-screw.

Old timer: Intermatic EJ500 & ST01C timers have a battery. Battery operates the clock motor. Red wire is for 3-way circuit [a hallway with 2 switches is a 3-way circuit].

Utilitec timer, clock runs on 120Volt circuit instead of battery. So clock has to have power.

How to connect wires:
Black timer wire connects to hot wire from breaker box.
Red (or blue) timer wire goes to landscape lights.
White timer wire connects to white neutral wire [or if no neutral is available, connect to bare ground wire].
Green timer wire goes to bare ground wire.

How to find black hot wire and white neutral wire inside box: Disconnect and separate wires so you can test. Use ordinary tester. Power is on. There is only 1 black hot wire inside each electrical box. Test each black wire to bare ground until tester light comes on > that identifies the black hot wire. Next, test black hot wire to white wires until tester light comes on > that is the neutral wire. Exception: This test does not necessarily work with 3-way switches since they reverse each time switch is thrown.

Rotate the iTrip AutoPilot FM Transmitter controller so that its buttons are facing up and its data cable is on the left side. The data cable wires attach to a row of contact points along the left side of the circuit board as follows (from top to bottom):

1 = Purple
2 = White
3 = Blue
4 = Red
5 = Black
6 = Brown
7 = Green
8 = Yellow
9 = <unused>

To add to red54's comments:

This is what I believe you have:

- one source in the ceiling box (black & white)

- one donwline circuit in ceiling box going to another wall/ceiling box (black&white)

- on switch wire in ceiling box coming from your wall switch (black & white) -- this is the white wire which will be hot when the switch is truned on

Here's how it should be connected:

- all 3 blacks in ceiling box connected together -- no other wires in this bundle

- white wire (which is hot when switched) coming from switch connects to the black/blackwhite fan wires

- connect all reamining white wires together in bundle

- connect all ground wires together

It's that simple. Trick is figuring out, of the three cables in the ceiling box, which is source, which is downline, which is switch.
Maybe red54's procedure can help you figure that out.

Switches always connect to hot (black) wires. In some cases you may find a white wire with the end taped black denoting it is serving as a hot (black) wire. Or you may find a white wire connected to the switch. If that's the case, the prior electrician did not properly mark the wire and it should be marked as a black wire. Wrap the end with black electrical tape after disconnecting.

This may be somewhat difficult depending on the year make and model. I will try to help without this knowledge.

There are 2 sides to the transformer. Read the label to see which is which. One side is labeled 24 volt and the other side is labeled 115 volt.

The 115v side will probably only have 2 wires. A white wire and a black wire. The white one will connect to the common or neutral system. If there is a circuit board it will plug on to the 120v Common terminal (probably marked L2). If the air handler does not have a circuit board, the white wire will connect to the other white common wires by a wire nut.

The Black (hot) 120v wire will connect to the 120v L1 terminal on the circuit board. If there is not a circuit board, read the schematics to find out where to wire nut the black 120v wire to. It will obviously be connected to a 120v incoming hot center after the blower door switch.

The 24volt wires will connect in a similar fashion to the circuit board. T1 will connect to the 24v hot terminal on the board. The T2 will connect to the 24v common terminal. If there is not a circuit board you will need to read the schematics very carefully before proceeding. It may be a good idea to add a 2amp fuseable link on the 24v T1 wire just in the case we are wrong.

The 24v hot wire may be wired in multiple ways without a circuit board. One way is to be wired to the Limit side of the Fan/Limit switch (located on back wall of the burner compartment just above the gas valve. Another way is wired to the gas valve. Please read the schematics located on the blower door. I hope this helps at least a little. Let me know please. Thanks.