Question about AEG L61271WDBI Integrated Washer Dryer, 7kg Wash/4kg Dry Load, C Energy Rating, 1200rpm Spin
WONT LET ME IN THE CONROL PANEL LOCKS ME OUT OF EVERYTHING.............................................................................
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The lock is rubbish on this machine but as a temporary measure you can feed a string down behind the door lock from the top and out the bottom. Then yank it to the left to open the lock. It will take a few tries but you get the hang of it!
We got sick of this so ordered a new lock off the net. I basically had to break the old mechanism to fit the new one because the door layers were so strongly glued together. Now fitted, the lock works perfectly but the machine thinks the door's open the whole time! Next step is either new door or new machine. Great.
Posted on May 12, 2009
I had the same problem and fixed it by replacing the triple valve. One of the inlets passes water to the condenser and this had failed. You can tell this by opening up the top and when the drier starts you here the drain working and then should hear a gentle hiss as the water is let through. If you don't hear anything then after 10 mins you get the E10 error. It cost me £27 which is cheaper than getting a new machine or a call out charge. If you feel competent then all you need is a philips screwdriver, pliers to get the clips off and a flat head driver to remove the rubber hoses.
Posted on Nov 11, 2009
Had an identical problem with my 16830 washer dryer and noticed reading other posts that others have had this issue with 16810 units too. After reading posts about the 'condensor issue' causing clothes not to dry properly I got a socket set and took the back-half cover off the machine (11 screws/hex screws in all) to have a look. I then removed and cleaned out the accumulated fluff from the transparent plastic condensor unit. It didn't appear to have much fluff caught within it so I doubted that this would solve the issue.
Upon putting the unit back into situ I noticed that the temperature sensor in the large black flexible tube that connects the condensor to the drum had just one orange wire attached to it. I then noticed a second orange wire hanging loose nearby and putting two and two together figured that the loose wire had dropped off the sensor. Since the connector can't be rewired I resorted to carefully soldering the loose wire to the connector and ty-rapped both orange wires to the connector to prevent the wires working loose again. Once I had the connector back on the sensor both wires were pretty taut between the main wiring loom and the sensor and so I suspect that what had happened was that in normal use the wire had come adrift from the connector due to the drum rocking back and forth and pulling the wires against the loom - a design flaw I'd say.
To create more slack for the two wires in question I cut the ty-rap holding the main wiring loom to the side of the dryer and then re-fitted a new ty-rap in exactly the same place around all the wires in the main loom except for the two orange wires so that they remained free of the main loom to move as the drum rocks. With the wire back in place and everthing re-assembled the dryer heats up perfectly and counts down as it should.
I figured that with the sensor not operating the computer determined incorrectly that the air leaving the drum was too hot/dry as would be the case if the contents of the drum were completely dry and as a result the computer turned off and kept off the heater for the remainder of the drying cycle. I also concluded that as an energy saving feature - with the computer thinking the clothes are dry - the dryer speeds up the remaining drying time so that the drying cycle finishes sooner, hence why the counter completes sooner than it should and all with no error message.
Hope this is of help to others.
Posted on Apr 01, 2010
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