Washer water wont stop running and switch to wash. It overflowed

try this
http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/washer-repair/345592-kenmore-90-series-washer-wont-agitate-spin.html
Kenmore 90 series washer won agitate or spin Appliance Repair Forum

The usual arrangement is there are 2 electrical water inlet valves, one for Hot and 1 for Cold. These valves are turned on by the timer, and remain on until the water level switch turns them on, and allows the washer to then run. It sounds like this water level switch is bad. This switch should be in the panel above the top of the washer, and has a rubber/plastic tube that goes toward the washer drum. It is also possible that the rubber tube is off or blocked. (if the water inlet valve is stuck open, turning the washer off will NOT stop the water).

Good Luck,
Bill

Hello,

Their are 2 possibilites causing it to overflow

1) the water inlet valve that the hoses from the house plumbing attach to is sticking open,when it sticks it will stick open regardless if thier is power to the machine or not,so to determine if that is the problem,start the washer and quickly unplug it,if the water continues to fill, that valve is sticking

2) the water level switch is defective,do the same as far as starting it,if the fill stops when power disconected it's the water level switch that is in need of replacement

Good luck, i hope this will help you to fix your washer, Gene

This problem is commonly attributed to either a water inlet valve that doesn't shut off, or a pressure switch malfunction. The following links explain how to diagnose the problem and repair as necessary:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3753517-whirlpool_top_load_washer_fills_when_not

If the washer is not overflowing, the likely problem is the water inlet valve. If the washer fills to the point where it overflows, the easiest and most common cause of this problem is the small plastic air hose on the pressure switch coming loose. It can usually be fixed by simply reattaching the hose. However, read through all the information provided and double check everything to make sure.

Replacement parts (if required) can be purchased at any of the following websites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

All these sites are reputable and have great service with competitive pricing, so shop and compare. The first three sites I listed also include helpful exploded view parts diagrams to assist you in locating and properly identifying the parts you need.

If you have any questions, please post back and let me know. I hope this helps you.

Hi

If your washer is overfilling, check these: Water-inlet valve A defect in the water-inlet valve may mean that it's no longer able to shut off completely when the electricity has been turned off to it. If this occurs, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub. In time, the water may accumulate substantially. If this happens, you need to replace the valve.

Water-level switch A defect--or an obstruction--in the water-level switch may mean that it can't tell the water to shut off. So the machine overflows. This switch senses the water level in the clothes tub. It's usually a diaphragm device with a small, clear tube attached between the switch and the bottom of the washer's outer tub. As the water level in the tub increases, the pressure on the air in the tube increases. When the pressure reaches a certain level, it activates the switch, shuts off the water, and signals the timer to begin the agitate cycle. You can either clear any obstruction in the tube or replace the water-level switch.


Please do rate the solution and revert for further assistance.

Thanks
Rylee

This advice is for a washer that fills and will not shut off, resulting in an overflow. Or, water is leaking from the washer while filling. The symptoms can apply to either a TOP LOADER or FRONT LOADER washer. This may be able to save you from an expensive service call by making these simple visual checks.

Water Does Not Shut Off and Overflows: The water level in a washer is controlled by the Pressure Switch. The switch is usually cylindrical in shape and has an electrical connection and an air hose attached. In many cases, the small air hose comes loose from the Pressure Switch fitting and/or falls off. This air hose is required to detect the air pressure from the wash tub as tub fills. With no air pressure, the switch will not function and the result will be a wash tub that fills continuously to the point of overflowing. The same would be true, if the air hose has any cracks, splits or holes in it.

Water Leaking While Filling: The other end of this hose runs to the air dome fitting on the side of the wash tub. If the lower end of the hose comes off, the water will begin to spill onto the floor under the washer, but the tub will not fill.

What to Look For: Check for the obvious. Make sure the air hose is still attached to the pressure switch and air dome. Then, inspect the entire length of the hose, paying particular attention to areas where chaffing may occur and at the points where the hose connects to the pressure switch and air dome. Vibrations from the washer can cause some wear if the hose is rubbing against anything, and the ends of the hose can stretch over time and not seal properly.

On most top loaders the Pressure Switch is located inside the operator console behind the knob that controls the water level. This knob is commonly referred to as the "Load Level", "Load Size" or "Water Level". On front loader washers the pressure switch location is usually located in the back of the washer behind the wash tub, or along the interior cabinet wall adjacent to the wash tub.

How to Correct: If the hose has slipped off, cut about ½" off the end of the hose and reattach to the pressure switch and/or air dome fitting. Take a small zip tie and place it around the hose at the point where it connects to the fitting. DO NOT over tighten as this can damage the air hose fitting. Just make the zip tie snug enough to keep the air hose from sliding off. If the hose has any cracks or holes, you can attempt to seal them by using electrical tape. Replacement tubing can be purchased at any hardware store.

NOTE: This is not an all inclusive fix, as the Pressure Switch can fail in some cases and cause similar symptoms. This is merely a preliminary check for a common occurrence that I have discovered. It can give symptoms of a major problem, resulting in a call for a repairman, only to turn out to be a simple fix that any Do-It-Yourselfer should be able to check and correct themselves. I hope this information is found to be helpful and saves many of you a future service call.

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

have you tryed blowing back the drain pipe to clear and sourse of fault,also is the water element heater working ok?it could be waiting at a thermostop position till its up to correct temp,hope this helps

Almost went and bought a switch until I widened by search for "kenmore washer 80 series overflow" and came up with this:
http://www.fixya.com/support/t1206464-kenmore_80_series_overflow

Turns out that a couple weeks ago, I had a really unbalanced load that probably shook off the tubing. Anyhow, saved me a trip to the supply store AND cost. Thanks to the original poster!

I had the same problem with a 90 series and there is a small hose connected to the water level knob that had slipped off.

You have a broken lid switch. Its # ll in the diagram. Part # is 3949238. Let me know if you need info on how to replace it, Dave www.washermd.com