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Kenmore 15944 Top Load Washer Questions & Answers
How to replace the timer on a Kenmore 90 series washing machine?
The timer on a washing Kenmore washing machine is the brains of the unit. The timer controls how long the clothes are to be washed, rinsed, spun and dried. The timer is located behind the timer knob in the main control panel. If the timer fails, it can be replaced with just a few hand tools.
1
Unplug the washing machine's cord from the electrical outlet.
2
Remove the two screws securing the main-panel end caps with a Phillips-head screwdriver. Lift the main panel up and rotate it backward so the inside of the panel is exposed. If your model does not have end caps, slide a putty knife between the main panel and the washing machine's top, then pry up to free the panel from its retaining clips.
3
Turn the knob by hand from one side while looking at the back of the timer from the other side. You should see the timer knob's shaft turning. Grasp the black plastic locking tab in the center of the timer knob's shaft with a pair of needle-nose pliers and pull it out. You should feel a click.
4
Pull the timer knob off of its shaft. You may need to hold the locking tab with the pliers as you do this. Remove the trim plate from under the knob.
5
Unplug the wiring connector from the back of the timer. Remove the screws securing the timer to the main panel with a nut driver and remove the timer.
6
Install the new timer into the panel and secure it with the screws, using a nut driver. Install the timer's trim plate and wire connector.
7
Install the knob onto the timer's shaft. Make sure the locking tab is still pulled out before installing the knob. Once the knob is pushed onto the shaft, hold the knob with one hand while pushing the locking tab in from the other side. You should feel it click into position.
8
Reinstall the main panel and end caps, if applicable. Plug in the electrical cord and run the washer on various wash and rinse cycles to test that the timer is working.
Things You Will Need
- Phillips-head screwdriver
- Putty knife
- Nut driver
- Needle-nose pliers
- Timer
Warning
- Pulling or installing the timer knob without first pulling the locking tab can break the tab, the shaft or the knob.
Hi. I have the
Remove the tubing from the level switch and blow out any sediment that may be obstructing the tubing then re-secure. Yank out the timer molex plug and look for corrosion on the plug. Remove the timer. Remove the sheathing from the timer and turn the barrel with your finger looking for burnt spots on the barrel. That is a sign of arcing contacts. Replace the timer or send it off to be rebuilt if you see burnt spots. I gotta say from looking at this
part and being a parts supplyer I never or rare ever sold any of these over the years, they simply don't go bad. Now if yours had a plastic housing yeppers I have sold many of them. Having seen the part I would say you have a bad timer. Try and clear the plastic tubing and make sure it ain't pinched up against the rear of the cabinet where the case fits against the bulkhead. It is supposed to be in the channel alongside the harness. Let me know. If you need further help, reach me via phone at
https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61
Paid a company to come
Before you get a new one check the lid switch on the inside rim of the washer. It will cause the timer to stop just before draining out all of the water. It's meant as a safety precaution to keep from spinning with the lid open. You should be able to hear it click when you close the lid.
WILL NOT SPIN
Hi,
Remove any kinks in the drain hose. Ensure that the washer is not sitting on the hose.
Inspect the household drain. Remove clogs, if possible. Call a plumber if you cannot remove the clogs.
Check the drain and make sure there is an air gap between the hose and drain. An air gap is necessary to prevent the drain hose from siphoning water.
Clean the pump filter. Open the pump access door. Turn the pump filter counter-clockwise and remove it. Remove dirt and debris. Replace the filter and close the pump access door.
Rearrange the clothing in the load. An unbalanced load can prevent the washer from spinning or draining.
Allow the washer to cool down for two hours. If the washer overheats, it will stop the motor and cool down before restarting.
Close the door completely. The washer will not operate if the door is not securely closed.
I hope the above helps.
Good luck.
I need to replace the lid switch but I can't get
First of all, unplug your washer. You will need to remove the console in order to get to the lid switch. The washer may have release tabs under the console at each front corner. Simply slide a putty knife straight in from the front at each corner and push in while lifting up. You should feel the release tabs push in and the console will pop up. If not equipped with this type of console, you may have a console that has removable end caps. They can be removed by gently prying up on the top of them from the rear on each side. You may have to use a small screwdriver for this. The caps should pop right off. Once removed, you will need to loosen a screw under each cap. Once you have the console loosened, carefully lift it up and lay it back over the rear panel of the washer in its resting position. Be careful not to damage the small plastic hinges that hold it in place. Now you will need to perform the following steps:
1. Under the console you will find the lid switch connector. Unplug the switch from the connector.
2. There will be two brass colored clips. You will need to remove these to remove the machine casing. Place a flat blade screwdriver straight down into the opening on top of the washer and into the groove of the clip. Push the screwdriver away from you while holding into the groove and the clip will release.
3. Open the lid of the washer and place your hand under the front rim of the opening (DO NOT grab the wash tub). Now pull the case from the frame by lifting from the back first.
You do not have to remove it all the way from the frame, just enough to gain access to the switch. All there is to the switch is a couple of screws holding it in and a ground wire. It's a pretty easy repair job. Some models will have the switch located on the right-hand side of the lid rim opening, while other models will have the switch located on the left-hand side near the lid hinge.
Once you've completed your switch installation, make sure you get the case back on the frame correctly by following these steps:
1. While looking down through the lid opening, place the front lip of the machine case UNDER the washer frame and start leaning it back onto the frame. There are four small cleats that must fit into four slots on the case or the washer will vibrate. Make sure the frame is seated properly, lean forward from the front of the washer, grasp both sides of the rear panel and pull towards the case. The rear panel should be seated and flush with the casing before inserting the retaining clips.
2. Insert the brass-colored clips into the slot on the washer rear panel first, and then push straight down into the opening on the top of the washer with some force. If you have the case seated correctly, the clips will snap back in.
3. Make sure you plug the connector from the console back into the lid switch receptacle BEFORE you reassemble the console. This is easy to forget.
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I changed the coupling and now there is a burning
It appears your motor/motor controller has failed in this instance.
For replacement parts - head on over to PartSelect.com or RepairClinic.com and enter in your full model number for a full parts listing.
I recommend both sites because ...
FixYa has no affiliation with either site - I have been using and recommending them for years - trouble free.
PartSelect has a great schematic database for locating the part on your unit and great "testimonials" for each part that often times includes HOW-TO information.
RepairClinic has pictures of each part they sell and also a great how-to and troubleshooting for basic repairs.
If your unit has never been serviced - there should still be an original service manual enclosed in plastic taped to the inside of the shell.
In the service manual are Error codes, maintenance procedures, and troubleshooting steps you can follow.
Anything too complicated or beyond your scope should be handled by a professional.
If you think you want to tackle the repair - and have gotten stuck on a step - reply to your question and I will be glad to help you out.
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Mod 20922 top load washer will not agitate or spin.
The following advice is for replacing the “Agitator Dogs” on Kenmore and Whirlpool TOP LOADER style washing machines. This simple repair can save you a fortune in repair costs as the replacement parts are very inexpensive at a cost of less than $10. The replacement kit part number is 80040. You can order on line at various appliance parts websites, or use this part number and go to your nearest appliance parts retailer.
What are “Agitator Dogs”? These are small plastic pieces (usually 4) that are located under the agitator center cap that grip the agitator and turn it during the wash cycle. They can (and do) wear out dependent upon the use of the washer. If you are in the habit of doing large load sizes frequently, or wash large items such blankets or afghans, this can wear the teeth off and reduce the life of the agitator dogs.
SYMPTOMS REQURING REPLACEMENT: The agitator fails to turn during the wash cycle, or will not turn with a heavy load. The timer will run normally through all cycles, and you will be able to hear the gearcase (transmission) engage and run. The washer will also drain normally. The only indication that something is wrong will be the agitator slipping or not turning at all. The result will be clothes that do not wash properly and will sit on the bottom of the wash tub.
To replace the Agitator Dogs, follow these steps:
1.Remove the agitator center cap by either pulling straight up or gently placing a flat blade screwdriver into a slot located in the cap.
2.If the agitator is equipped with an inner cap with a handle, remove this as well by pulling straight up.
3.Remove the center bolt of the agitator. You will have either a 7/16” hex bolt or a recessed square plastic nut. If you have the square recessed type, use a 3/8” to ½” ratchet adapter to remove.
4.Remove the agitator by grasping the bottom flange and carefully pulling straight up. Try to keep all the parts assembled while doing this, so do not pull too hard. This will make this repair much easier.
5.Place your hand over the top of the agitator and separate the upper portion of the agitator from the lower portion and turn the top half over in your hand. The agitator dog assembly will come out in your hand.
6.With the agitator dog assembly in your hand, lay the rest of the agitator aside. Pay careful attention to how the dogs are installed. Remove the worn dogs and reinstall new ones. It’s that simple.
7.With all the dogs replaced and the assembly still in your hand, place the upper part of the agitator over the top of it, upside down, ensuring the inner assembly tabs align correctly.
8.Now keep your hand over the agitator top to hold all the pieces together and turn the entire assembly over (upright position).
9.Carefully align and reinsert the upper portion of the agitator to the lower portion. Again, making sure the two pieces align correctly.
10.Place the entire agitator assembly back on the gearcase shaft and reinstall center nut. NOTE: DO NOT over tighten the nut, or the agitator will not spin correctly. Just make the nut snug. Reinstall center cap and inner cap (if equipped).
These instructions should give you the basics on how to perform this repair. Since there are various agitator types in use by Whirlpool and Kenmore, assembly can vary.
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Kenmore 90 Series fills so slow on rinse cycle
For low water volume - or "Trickling" effect...
1. Turn off the water supply to both hoses.
2. Remove hoses (one at a time so you don't get them confused)
3. On the washer side - look for a removeable screen inside where you just removed the hose.
4. Using a small screwdriver - pop out the screen and reverse-flush it/clean it. It will likely be full of sediment and calcium deposits from your pipes.
5. Replace the inlet screens.
6. Re-fit the hose to the machine.
7. Turn on water supply valves.
8. re-try.
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I have a whirlpool top loading washing machine.
Hello,
Welcome to FixYa.
Based on your description, the problem is likely worn agitator dogs/gears. The new dogs alone part # 80040 or what I'd recommend, part # 285751 as a kit with new hub too.
These are common and availble at most brick & mortar parts depot's as well as on-line vendor's.
You`ll need to remove the top of the agitator to replace them.
To remove the top cover of the agitator, it should lift off by prying up gently with a flat screwdriver or puddy knife.
Under this cap there actually is a screw/fastener,( bolt ) it just may or may not look anything like a typical screw. It could be a plastic piece with a square center and with the aid of a large flat screwdriver inserted in this location pressed into one of the corner`s in the square center (as to hold it still or turn it, I usually hold it still while turning the agitator) at the same time as holding the bottom of the agitator, turn it counter-clockwise and it will come loose. It may be the bolt style and in that case just remove the bolt and lift it out.
On Kenmore full size washer`s built by whirlpool there are several types, ones with a 7/16", 1/2" or 9/16" bolt holding it in place, and the type I described.
This is a link to a helpful a amatuer "how to" video...it may have slight differences to your washer, but essentially the same.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V5wIN1J70-Y
Thank`s for visiting FixYa. Good luck and let me know if I can assist you further.
macmarkus :)
Agitator on my washing machine
Remove the cap off the top of the agitator. Then remove the 7/16 bolt below. Your problem is inside the top part of the agitator. YOu need to buy an agitator dog kit. When the part is removed you will see how to put it in.
Efficiency of Kenmore 80 and 90 series washers
all front loaders do is save alittle water,motor and pumps aree almost the same,kenmore makes the 300,400,500,600,series know and they will last forever,and if you do need a replacement part they are dirt cheap,because all parts are universal-mike
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