Air and fluid continue to flow when air is on

Bleeding brakes is the same on all vehicles (typically) to do it right, it takes two people. One to pump the brakes, and one to crack the valve. If you don't do it properly, you will get air up in the lines. (which is the opposite of bleeding them) First, you should make sure the reservoir under the hood is full, and you should continually check it to keep it full. If it runs too low, you can get air in the system. Typically, one person pumps the brakes (brake pedal) and holds foot on pedal. The other person will get under the car, and with a wrench the proper size, "crack" the valve to allow a stream of fluid to come out. (YOu have to remove the wheel to access the bleeder screw/valve usually) You want to Ideally open the valve, and then when the stream slows down, you want to close the valve while there is still a "positive" flow of fluid coming out. It you wait too long until the stream stops flowing, you can get air in the line, especially if person A takes their foot off the pedal and allows it to retract...this will 'suck' air up the line. You want air to go "out" the line.

You need to continually do this on all wheels until there is no more air in the system. You should start with whichever wheels are furthest away from the reservoir. (usually start with the rear) Do each wheel in succession. You would probably have to do it around all 4 a couple of times.

The problem with this method is that it to get the air out, you are trying to push the air "down" which is against the natural flow, since air naturally rises. There are brake bleeder tools where you can pump fluid "into" the bleeder screw, which then forces the air "up" where it naturally wants to go, and also makes bleeding brakes a one person job...but you need to get the tool. Either way will get the job done.

sound like an air leak, too much air coming in kills engine, try spraying like starting fluid by and seals, or do a compressed smoke test

have a helper. car needs not be running. locate bleeder screw on brake calipers one per each wheel, have helper pump brakes 4-7 times then hold pedal to floor, while holding to floor loosen bleeder screw untill fluid and air bubbles flow out. tighten bleeder and pump brakes again and hold, while holding loosen bleeder again untill no air bubbles are present.Continue this procedure untill no air bubbles are present . Then proceed to opposite wheel and perform the same procedure. Also check brake fluid reservoir several times and keep full, do not allow to empty while bleeding is taking place or you will have to start all over.

Check your radiator fluid level and the fluid level in the Overflow tank. Make sure the radiator is full and the over flow bottle is filled to the full mark. After doing this if the light continues you will need to locate and replace the fluid sensors.

was the p/s system bleed of air properly before running the new pump. wheels should be off the ground and the fluid reservoir full then wheels turned from left to right all the way and top of fluid as needed. then start engine and continue to cut left and right. fluid aeration will cause premature pump failure and noise. also ensure that no other parts are restricted, i have seen faulty valves in the rack or lines cause restrictions in the flow and cause the pump to fail even new ones. hope this will help you

try hooking up a vacuum pump at clutch cylinder fitting,  open  fitting , and pump down while continuing to  fill reservoir, when air bubbles stop flowing with fluid, tighten fitting   

Check fuel filter on both vehicles...After that check fuel pressure ...Blocking off air flow to engine will change the fuel air mixture...air deprivation changes (lessens) air flow and fools engine into reading more fuel than is actually there. Mass air flow sensor should also be checked/cleaned if no results obtained by filter change if pressure is OK.

Make sure it is full of fluid, go to the farthest wheel have someone pump the brakes up as much as possible have the person continue to push on the pedal as you open the the bleed valve located on the back of the brake drum continue this proscees pumping and bleeding until you get a continuous flow of fluid coming out, move to the opposite side and do it again go to the next farthest and continue until you have bled all wheel cylinders and have all the air out be sure you keep the reservoir full during this procedure

its common for older calipers to lock up. try cleaning the slides and lubing them. also when the calipers are off make sure the piston moves by depressing it all the way in. then drive again.

also very rare but you could have a bad brake hose causing pressure to stay inbetween the colapsed hose and caliper. this will keep a slight pressure on the side with a bad hose. but not so common like i said.. checking a bad hose by removing hose from caliper side. fluid should continue to flow out. if nothing flows out after 2 or 3 minutes you have a resriction somewhere. then remove hose from the hard line to see if fluid flows from the brake line. if fluid flows from brake line you have a bad hose. if fluid still does not flow from brake line you have other issues before the brake line. could be bad master.check master the saem way you check hose hopefully its easy. GOOD LUCK

Michael
ASE certified
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