I have a whirlpool full size refrigerator el87trrrv02. I noticed it was not cold but blowing air. We pulled it out and began troubleshooting. There was what seemed like too much water in the drain pan, no frost on evaporator coils. Fan blowing, compressor warm/hot and seemingly running(softly vibrating). Condenser coils on bottom were warm and dust-free (it sits up on a raised platform abt 9 inches off floor so it doesn't suffer too much dirt/dust attraction and the drain pan sits on top of them). At some point in the process of poking around, unplugging...etc - it began blowing cold air again. After letting sit and run undisturbed it had light frost evenly across evaporator coils and temp was staying abt 38. We re-attached the back panel and put it back. I have a digital therm inside that keeps reading of temp, the next morning inside temp was 67, readout showed it hit a low during the night of 25. Small amt of water in drain pan, compressor warm/hot and running. We took it back out and began troubleshooting again. With multimeter we tested cold control dial, bimetal thermister, compressor. Start relay and overload look norm/clean no rattle-ing. Have not removed run capacitor, but looks clean nothing obvious. Manually turned defrost timer to force cycle (has access without removing it) and it never restarted. When manually turned it again to come back on, the compressor and fan start but frost and coldness only happen on the first 3 inches of evaporator coils. I'm totally confused, but certain at least that defrost timer doesn't work. I removed the screws and find the wiring harness is only plugged-in partially, its pulled/bent slightly on prongs. Only the first two (numbers 2 & 1) have full contact, the third (num 4) has partial and last (num 3) has no contact. It is a tight connection and exposed part is dusty, assuring me it has always been this way- its bolted inside the back metal and could not have been accidentally unplugged while it sat undisturbed since Aug 2008. So I guess it has been running non-stop? Idk? So, since I did purchase an extended warranty, which of course expired in Aug, I'm on my own to figure it out. So is there any chance that replacing defr timer, start relay, overload, run capacitor will fix? There is water inside the insulation of the copper tube running between compr and evap and some obvious greenish-ness on other parts of copper tube, like where it enters back into comp and drier/filter tube-thing. I am very confused at this point, I have no clue what to do next. Long story, but if you read it all- perhaps you can help?! Thank you!

SOURCE: GE refrigerator profile arctica Not cooling frige or freezer PTS25LBMARBB

well if the compressor dont have power so how could it work or cool?

SOURCE: Replaced Start Relay because it was clicking...now?

If you are sure you have the right start relay, and are positive the start and run connections are correct, the compressor may be bad. There is an internal overload/overheat thermostat inside the compressor. If the motor windings are partially shorted out it will run for a little bit then stop. It will probably start after several hours when cooled down. The other possibility is that you have the start and run terminals reversed. If the start winding can't kick out after a few minutes it will overheat. As a final test, disconnect all wires from compressor. Plug in the box and turn it on. Make a test cord with a plug, wire and some alligator clips. One clip on one side and two clips on the other pole. Single clip goes to the common terminal, One of the other goes to the run. The last one is briefly touched to the run terminal. Just keep it there long enough for the compressor to start then remove it. Let it run for a few hours. It should cool the box down completely. It will run until you stop it as it's not using the thermostat in the box. If it works this way replace the relay again. If it stops by itself the compressor needs to be replaced. This is almost never worth it to fix.

SOURCE: Model is GSS25WGMD WW No cooling in freezer or refrigerator

look for ice or forst build up on the rear wall of freezer compartment, sounds like you may have a defrost problem. this will affect temps in freezer and refrig. the most common def problems for GE are bad defrost heaters. these are model specific and fairly easy to replace your self. i got this part number form Sears.com WR51X10055 good luck peyton

SOURCE: GE GSS20IEPHWW side-by-side refrigerator stopped cooling

First off, when the fans are both running, the compressor should also be running. Sometimes, because they run quietly, it is difficult to tell if they are running. Touch the compressor to feel for heat and / or vibration to confirm running. (if the compressor gets too hot, the overload will stop it until the compressor cools down. That could happen with too low or too high voltage, even with the cooling fan running) You did not say how long you let the unit defrost. To properly defrost it, you should empty out the freezer side, remove the shelves, and take the metal cover off the back inside wall of the freezer. Then, use a hair dryer to melt all the frost off. If the coils were blocked with frost, you probably have a burnt out defrost heater (located at the bottom of the cooling coils) when replacing the defrost heater, use part number WR51X10101 and follow directions, as it may have a different configuration than the original heater. A frost blocked evaporator (coils inside the freezer) will stop normal air circulation inside the refrigerator. Cold air will then be able to flow backward, into the bottom of the refrigerator side through the normal return air duct located at the bottom of the refrig / freezer divider. This cold air can freeze the water line or water reservoir located there. There for, solving your defrost issue most likely will also solve your water line freeze issue.

SOURCE: Help w/ Refrigerator Compressor Overheating?

I had a similar problem yesterday (Maytag side by side unit 5 years old, however this apply to most brands). All operation seems normal other then that the refrigerator was not cooling, the air that was blowing inside the refrigerator was room temperature and not cold air. The compressor was also very hot to touch (could not touch it for more then 1-2 seconds) and didn't buzz or hum as in standard operation. I also heard few clicks from the compressor every time I plugged / unplugged the AC to the fridge. Replaced the overload/ relay device with a new one I got at a local appliance parts distributor ($30) and MAGIC. The unit went back to work as soon as I plugged the AC power. The relay/overload unit is on the side of the compressor and that?s where the electric wires are attached to. The unit turns the compressor on and off. The unit is attached to the compressor side with an "electric outlet" like three holes and three prongs. It might be held tight so you can pry gently (between the unit and the compressor body) with a screwdriver. Once pulled out, release the wires connectors that are attached to the relay/ overload unit. You might need to use pliers as they are tight fit. If unit smells like burnt or if you shake and hear rattle then it?s bad. Find a local appliance parts distributors and call to see if they have part for your model/ type. Remember to unplug AC before starting to work on the fridge and good luck.