Question about Washing Machines
Kenmore top loader stackable washer makes loud buzzing on wash cycle but quits buzzing on rinse and spin cycle. agitator won't spin but still drains?
Posted by Anonymous on
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
This problem, or some variation thereof evidently is very common with these Whirlpool Washers! I have same problem. So far, best I have found is at
diagnosis by someone who knows. What William Burk says there makes sense. However, to get to the drive block there's quite a bit of disassembly required. I am stopped because I cannot get the spanner nut off. Hope this gives you some help toward finding a more comprehensive answer
Posted on Jul 05, 2008
To check the agitator. Start the washer into wash cycle. Once started Push down on top of agitator. If it catches some times or all of the time when pushing down, then then doggets are worn, under the agitator. You`ll have to remove the agitator to see these. If by pushing down on the agitator, nothing changes, Then you probably have a transmition problem. Check this and let me know what you find.
Posted on Nov 27, 2008
When the washer initially fills for the wash, is it only hot water entering the drum? Try switching the water temperature between hot and cold as it fills. If any of them show little or no water getting through, it sounds too easy but check to make sure water supply taps are on, and that the cold/hot fill hoses aren't reversed. Remove the fill hoses and check any of the screen filters for blockage (in the hoses and in the inlet water valve). When the machine stops and waits to fill but all you hear is a hum, it sounds like there is power going to the valve but water is not able to get through it.
Posted on Mar 03, 2009
Check to see that the belt is being driven by the motor when it goes into the wash cycle. Let me know if this helps and thank you for using FixYa!
Posted on Mar 30, 2009
I suspect that your "lid lock" mechanism has gone to appliance perts heaven. If the timer "thinks" the lid isn't completely closed and locked, it'll shut everything down when it's time to spin and drain. It's a safety feature... I mean, you wouldn't want this thing spinning at full speed and have a 5 year old lift the lid and stick her paw in there only to have it torn out of the socket, would you? Yuck! (was that too graphic?)
Anyway, here's what I'll need you to do. You gotta get access to the lid lock and run a TEMPORARY bypass on it to verify my theory, OK? You'll also need to UNPLUG THE MACHINE BEFORE DOING ANYTHING ELSE!!!! If you don't, you run a high risk of a funky new do and some time in the Hospital.
Click this link, you'll see a main picture and 4 "thumbnails"... I want you to look at the last one. It'll show you a micro-switch in detail. This is what I believe to be at issue and this is what we'll bypass for testing purposes. All you need to do to access it is remove the front panel.
Look at the lower right and left of the front panel, you'll see 2 Phillips screws there, remove them. Now grasp the front panel and pull straight down to unlatch it from its' clips. Then pull the panel toward you and set it aside. Now that you can see inside the cabinet, look to the top right and you'll see the lid lock. Since you've UNPLUGGED THE WASHER, you are not afraid to remove the 2 wires attached to the switch (shown in the link above).
Now that you have the wires off, you'll need to build a "bypass tool". My favorite (and the one I carry in my tool bag) is made from a paper clip. Take a paper clip and straighten it all the way out. Then bend it into a "U" shape. Starting at the bend, wrap it with vinyl electricians tape most of the way up to the exposed 2 prongs (leave about 1/2" exposed). Now take these prongs and insert one into one terminal and the other into the other terminal. Make sure they are firmly and completely seated.
Now plug the machine in and set it to spin. I suspect that it fired right up. If it did, we just verified the failed component... the lid lock assy. You can buy it online by plugging this number (134101800) into a search engine, or pick one up at a local appliance parts retailer.
IF, and only if, this didn't fix your problem, write back to me and I'll take the diagnostic a little deeper for you. Otherwise, please don't forget to rate this as "FixYa", OK? (It took me longer to write this than it would have to fix it, so show some love, K?)
Posted on Apr 16, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
Dec 03, 2015 | Washing Machines
Aug 21, 2012 | Kenmore Washing Machines
Jul 09, 2012 | Kenmore Washing Machines
Mar 22, 2012 | Kenmore 3.2 cu. ft. Plus Top Load Washer
Oct 10, 2011 | Kenmore 98702 Stacked Washer/Dryer
Jul 01, 2009 | Washing Machines
Dec 20, 2008 | KitchenAid KAWS700L Top Load Washer
Nov 27, 2008 | Kenmore 22422 Top Load Washer
49 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!