Don't order any spares until you've stripped it down. See below:
Make some space, unplug, unplumb, drain, remove top and rear panel.
Remove bolt holding rotor onto splined shaft.
Push down on top of tub to make the rotor more accessible then pull it off the shaft. Be aware that hefty magnets in rotor tend to pull it back on. Beware - strong magnetic fields!
Disconnect cables running to stator (that rather impressive ring of coils) and remove the six bolts which attach it to the tub.
Do NOTremove the 23 bolts which go through the steel plate at back of tub into polypropylene tub itself. I did - nothing happens!
Disconnect cables running to heater element and thermocouple (temp sensor) at bottom of tub. Remove second nut and ease out element.
Remove sprung wire which holds the rubber bellows to the front of the machine (the "port hole"). Leave it attached to the tub but fold the rubber into the drum so it's out of the way.
Disconnect rubber tube connecting the tub to the pump. I found it easier to remove it at the pump side
Disconnect pipes connecting the soap dispenser drawer to the tub. This is easiest at the tub side.
There is a long tube, about 1cm diameter running from an air chamber near the bottom of the tub to a pressure sensor (to monitor water level) mounted at the front top right. Disconnect from the pressure sensor.
Remove the scew holding said pressure sensor - it will be in the way when you remove tub.
Pull out the drawer and remove the two screws holding the soap dispenser. That will be in the way too! Leave hoses connected.
Also unscrew the solenoid valves. That's the last thing in your way.
Pop out the nylon gizmos which hold the suspension springs where they attach to the cabinet.
Note that there are two dampers at the bottom of the machine. They separate into two parts - no need to detach anything.
Unless you own a block and tackle it is very difficult to lift the tub vertically out of the cabinet. I layed the machine its right side (looking at the front). Get help, tilt gently and rest on something to protect cabinet paintwork. Remember to leave the door open and to keep the pressure sensor, soap tray, solenoid valves and miscellaneous plumbing cabling and fingers clear as you ease the drum out of the cabinet.
Remove bolts, split tub and remove drum.
I found the seal was obviously gone and the first bearing was wrecked.
Both bearings and the seal are available but I couldn't get the failed ones out (perhaps if I had specialist tools) so I ordered a rear drum including bearings and seal (about £120).
Reassembly is straightforward - just note the following:
If you replace the rear drum, rescue and reuse (or order a new) seal (huge O ring) between the two halves of the tub. Also rescue and reuse thermocouple.
When reinstalling tub ensure the dampers re-engage.
Beware when reinstalling heating element that it doesn't foul the drum. Also ensure no stray screws etc were attracted by those magnets. Give the drum a spin by hand to test once everything is reassembled but before switching on.
Two days doing it blind without instructions! More like two hours if I had to do it again.
Once disassembled, I found main problem was shaft on spider assembly had corroded and was now rotating freely. So I ordered spidershaft assembly. While I had machine apart, I also ordered and replaced both rear bearings and seal. Parts can be ordered from:
LG Service Website for LG Parts Distributors
I ordered all parts from Andrews Electronics due to parts being in stock there. Good service and quick delivery.
Rear bearings can be pushed out using hammer and long punch. You must be careful not to damage bearing insert that bearings fit into. New bearings were driven back in using large socket to only push on outer race of new bearings. Care must be given not to damage. Best practice is to put new bearings in freezer for an hour or so prior to installation.
Thanks for instructions Steve! I found it helpful to remove the horse shoe shaped weights from the front of the tub.It made it much easier when manoeuvring it out of the machine. They are held on with four bolts. Undo the bottom bolts first, leaving the top one last. Then carefully undo the top bolt, whilst holding the weight.Then slide out of the machine (mind your toes). After splitting the tub I found the rear shaft slid out quite easily after a gentle tap with a hammer on the end of the spline shaft. To knock out bearings get a screwdriver that is solid metal all the way through.Start with the outer (smaller) bearing first. Poke screwdriver in at an angle behind bearing and whack six times with a hammer very hard. Then swap the screwdriver to the other side of the bearing and repeat. Keep going with this; nothing will happen for about 10 minutes, then you will start to see a tiny gap appearing as the bearing starts to move. Slowly mm by mm it will keep moving, then you are on the home straight. Eventually there will be enough gap for you to get the tip of the screwdriver behind the outer race of the bearing. Keep hammering away and eventually they will pop out. Turn the tub over and start on the inner (larger) bearing.This took a little longer to get going, but did knock out eventually. Have patience it takes a while! I got my bearings from 4ourhouse.co.uk, £30 quid delivered, inc. the tub ‘O’ ring. Clean up the housing and spline shaft with some wet ‘n dry sandpaper. Strangely during re-assemble I found it a real pain to get the sump pipe onto the drain pump. Consider getting a suitable worm drive clip for this as it will be a lot easier than messing with the spring clip. Ensure you get the stator ring round the right way. I didn’t and created a neutron accelerator which formed a worm hole inside the machine and a whole load of little aliens appeared in the drum. ;-)
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
This is a very involved repair and will require disassembling most of the washer, which you have witnessed. The manufacturer recommends that if possible the complete outer tub and bearing be replaced rather than attempting to replace just the bearing in the tub. If the bearing is bad the problem is going to get worse very quickly and so either the drum and bearing will need to be replaced or the washing machine.
If the washer is making a loud noise the tub bearing might need to be replaced. This is a very involved repair and will require disassembling most of the washer. The manufacturer recommends that if possible the complete outer tub and bearing be replaced rather than attempting to replace just the bearing in the tub. If the bearing is bad the problem is going to get worse very quickly and so either the drum and bearing will need to be replaced or the washing machine
If the washer is making a loud noise the rear drum with bearing might need to be replaced. On this washer the bearing might not be sold separately, the entire rear drum might have to be replaced. This is a very involved repair and will require disassembling most of the washer. However, the problem is going to get worse very quickly and so either the drum and bearing will need to be replaced or the washing machine.
Bearing replacement is quite a big job. The components can be replaced individually, or the rear drum assembly can be replaced as a whole. Obviously there is a difference in time involved and component cost.. Get quotes for both methods of repair and for machine replacement as well..... Good luck.....Nomess
The rear half of the outer wash drum (which contains the rear bearing and tub shaft seal) needs to be replaced. On a 1 - 10 scale, this rates a difficulty rating of about an 8. An experienced appliance tech can do it in about 2 hours, and hit you up for about $500. I do not suggest this as a do it yourself repair. Did you know that the new LG machines use a balance ring to make them much smoother running? (Hint: It may be wiser to replace the machine.)
You can try a puller but typically it is recommended to replace the entire rear outer tub half (which comes with the bearings already pressed into it). You will also need the tub seal that goes between the front and rear tub halves. Hope this helps.
You may have a bearing problem and it will need to be looked at by a qualified LG technician. That is a big job and will require total disassembly of the tub and drum assembly to get to the bearings. There are 2 of them.
most lg front loaders have the plastic outer drums which have about 16 h/duty screws holding the two halves together. extreemly tricky to strip to gain access to inner bearing and seal. Th/stat, motor, piping and other items have to be removed and dissassembled to enable drum to be removed. that repair i suggest for a service repair.