Have an lg wd1285fhd washer need to replace bearing how
Don't order any spares until you've stripped it down. See below:
Two days doing it blind without instructions! More like two hours if I had to do it again.
Pub!
I should like to add this to my solution:
When I removed the drum from the bearings at the rear of the tub it came out quite easily. If your bearings were severely damaged there could also be some scoring to the shaft. Where this is the case you'd be advised to replace the spider (three pronged bit which attached to the stainless steel drum) and shaft assembly.
Steve
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Good instructions from SteveSays. Used his instructions and service diagrams from:
LG CS Academy - Just select washer model for respective service manual (mine WM2032)
http://136.166.4.200/contents/Laundry/WM2032.htm
Once disassembled, I found main problem was shaft on spider assembly had corroded and was now rotating freely. So I ordered spidershaft assembly. While I had machine apart, I also ordered and replaced both rear bearings and seal. Parts can be ordered from:
LG Service Website for LG Parts Distributors
http://us.lgservice.com/index_b2c.jsp
I ordered all parts from Andrews Electronics due to parts being in stock there. Good service and quick delivery.
Rear bearings can be pushed out using hammer and long punch. You must be careful not to damage bearing insert that bearings fit into. New bearings were driven back in using large socket to only push on outer race of new bearings. Care must be given not to damage. Best practice is to put new bearings in freezer for an hour or so prior to installation.
Thanks for instructions Steve!
I found it helpful to remove the horse shoe shaped weights from the front of the tub. It made it much easier when manoeuvring it out of the machine.
They are held on with four bolts. Undo the bottom bolts first, leaving the top one last. Then carefully undo the top bolt, whilst holding the weight. Then slide out of the machine (mind your toes).
After splitting the tub I found the rear shaft slid out quite easily after a gentle tap with a hammer on the end of the spline shaft.
To knock out bearings get a screwdriver that is solid metal all the way through. Start with the outer (smaller) bearing first.
Poke screwdriver in at an angle behind bearing and whack six times with a hammer very hard. Then swap the screwdriver to the other side of the bearing and repeat. Keep going with this; nothing will happen for about 10 minutes, then you will start to see a tiny gap appearing as the bearing starts to move. Slowly mm by mm it will keep moving, then you are on the home straight. Eventually there will be enough gap for you to get the tip of the screwdriver behind the outer race of the bearing. Keep hammering away and eventually they will pop out.
Turn the tub over and start on the inner (larger) bearing. This took a little longer to get going, but did knock out eventually. Have patience it takes a while!
I got my bearings from 4ourhouse.co.uk, £30 quid delivered, inc. the tub ‘O’ ring.
Clean up the housing and spline shaft with some wet ‘n dry sandpaper.
Strangely during re-assemble I found it a real pain to get the sump pipe onto the drain pump. Consider getting a suitable worm drive clip for this as it will be a lot easier than messing with the spring clip.
Ensure you get the stator ring round the right way. I didn’t and created a neutron accelerator which formed a worm hole inside the machine and a whole load of little aliens appeared in the drum. ;-)
Removal of the weights from the front of the tub is good advice.These are supported on spigots and are easily removed and replaced. Bearings are easily knocked out by using a socket and extension bar (or similar drift) against the centre race while supporting the bearing housing. The old bearings can be used to drift in the new bearings. In my case the output shaft was badly corroded where the seal operated and the spider/shaft assembly had to be replaced. Replacing the drum can be tricky for one person. I used a wooden baton and adjustable luggage strap to suspend the drum in order to reconnect the dampers. Spring clips present no problems if you use a mole wrench. If you need to remove the heating element it is better to do this after the drum has been split. Mine was firmly "cemented" into the support bracket by lime scale. Many thanks to the previous contributors, their info. made the job much easier than doing it blind.
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Hi Steve
Just followed your instructions, now have a kitchen full of washing machine, very impressed with description, had no problem following them, just one snag, looks like I need to replace rear drum and spider, can you let me know where you got parts from as I don't seem to be having much luck.
Cheers
Paul
Hi. i had the same problem. Iv'e fixed the bearings, no problem. but can't remember which way round the seal goes in. could you please advise. thanks .Tony.
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