Question about LG WD-1280FHD Front Load Washer

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Lg bearing problem

Have an lg wd1285fhd washer need to replace bearing how

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  • sellnet Feb 16, 2009

    Hi Steve

    Just followed your instructions, now have a kitchen full of washing machine, very impressed with description, had no problem following them, just one snag, looks like I need to replace rear drum and spider, can you let me know where you got parts from as I don't seem to be having much luck.

    Cheers
    Paul

  • anthony szostak Feb 28, 2009




    Hi. i had the same problem. Iv'e fixed the bearings, no problem. but can't remember which way round the seal goes in. could you please advise. thanks .Tony.


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Don't order any spares until you've stripped it down. See below:

  • Make some space, unplug, unplumb, drain, remove top and rear panel.
  • Remove bolt holding rotor onto splined shaft.
  • Push down on top of tub to make the rotor more accessible then pull it off the shaft. Be aware that hefty magnets in rotor tend to pull it back on. Beware - strong magnetic fields!
  • Disconnect cables running to stator (that rather impressive ring of coils) and remove the six bolts which attach it to the tub.
  • Do NOTremove the 23 bolts which go through the steel plate at back of tub into polypropylene tub itself. I did - nothing happens!
  • Disconnect cables running to heater element and thermocouple (temp sensor) at bottom of tub. Remove second nut and ease out element.
  • Remove sprung wire which holds the rubber bellows to the front of the machine (the "port hole"). Leave it attached to the tub but fold the rubber into the drum so it's out of the way.
  • Disconnect rubber tube connecting the tub to the pump. I found it easier to remove it at the pump side
  • Disconnect pipes connecting the soap dispenser drawer to the tub. This is easiest at the tub side.
  • There is a long tube, about 1cm diameter running from an air chamber near the bottom of the tub to a pressure sensor (to monitor water level) mounted at the front top right. Disconnect from the pressure sensor.
  • Remove the scew holding said pressure sensor - it will be in the way when you remove tub.
  • Pull out the drawer and remove the two screws holding the soap dispenser. That will be in the way too! Leave hoses connected.
  • Also unscrew the solenoid valves. That's the last thing in your way.
  • Pop out the nylon gizmos which hold the suspension springs where they attach to the cabinet.
  • Note that there are two dampers at the bottom of the machine. They separate into two parts - no need to detach anything.
  • Unless you own a block and tackle it is very difficult to lift the tub vertically out of the cabinet. I layed the machine its right side (looking at the front). Get help, tilt gently and rest on something to protect cabinet paintwork. Remember to leave the door open and to keep the pressure sensor, soap tray, solenoid valves and miscellaneous plumbing cabling and fingers clear as you ease the drum out of the cabinet.
  • Remove bolts, split tub and remove drum.
  • I found the seal was obviously gone and the first bearing was wrecked.
  • Both bearings and the seal are available but I couldn't get the failed ones out (perhaps if I had specialist tools) so I ordered a rear drum including bearings and seal (about £120).
  • Reassembly is straightforward - just note the following:
  • If you replace the rear drum, rescue and reuse (or order a new) seal (huge O ring) between the two halves of the tub. Also rescue and reuse thermocouple.
  • When reinstalling tub ensure the dampers re-engage.
  • Beware when reinstalling heating element that it doesn't foul the drum. Also ensure no stray screws etc were attracted by those magnets. Give the drum a spin by hand to test once everything is reassembled but before switching on.
Two days doing it blind without instructions! More like two hours if I had to do it again.

Pub!

Posted on Jan 30, 2009

  • SteveSays Jan 30, 2009

    I should like to add this to my solution:

    When I removed the drum from the bearings at the rear of the tub it came out quite easily. If your bearings were severely damaged there could also be some scoring to the shaft. Where this is the case you'd be advised to replace the spider (three pronged bit which attached to the stainless steel drum) and shaft assembly.

    Steve


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Good instructions from SteveSays. Used his instructions and service diagrams from:
LG CS Academy - Just select washer model for respective service manual (mine WM2032) http://136.166.4.200/contents/Laundry/WM2032.htm

Once disassembled, I found main problem was shaft on spider assembly had corroded and was now rotating freely.  So I ordered spidershaft assembly.  While I had machine apart, I also ordered and replaced both rear bearings and seal.  Parts can be ordered from: 
LG Service Website for LG Parts Distributors http://us.lgservice.com/index_b2c.jsp

I ordered all parts from Andrews Electronics due to parts being in stock there.  Good service and quick delivery.
Rear bearings can be pushed out using hammer and long punch.  You must be careful not to damage bearing insert that bearings fit into.  New bearings were driven back in using large socket to only push on outer race of new bearings.  Care must be given not to damage.  Best practice is to put new bearings in freezer for an hour or so prior to installation.    

Posted on Mar 18, 2009

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Thanks for instructions Steve!
I found it helpful to remove the horse shoe shaped weights from the front of the tub. It made it much easier when manoeuvring it out of the machine.
They are held on with four bolts. Undo the bottom bolts first, leaving the top one last. Then carefully undo the top bolt, whilst holding the weight. Then slide out of the machine (mind your toes).
After splitting the tub I found the rear shaft slid out quite easily after a gentle tap with a hammer on the end of the spline shaft.
To knock out bearings get a screwdriver that is solid metal all the way through. Start with the outer (smaller) bearing first.
Poke screwdriver in at an angle behind bearing and whack six times with a hammer very hard. Then swap the screwdriver to the other side of the bearing and repeat. Keep going with this; nothing will happen for about 10 minutes, then you will start to see a tiny gap appearing as the bearing starts to move. Slowly mm by mm it will keep moving, then you are on the home straight. Eventually there will be enough gap for you to get the tip of the screwdriver behind the outer race of the bearing. Keep hammering away and eventually they will pop out.
Turn the tub over and start on the inner (larger) bearing. This took a little longer to get going, but did knock out eventually. Have patience it takes a while!
I got my bearings from 4ourhouse.co.uk, £30 quid delivered, inc. the tub ‘O’ ring.
Clean up the housing and spline shaft with some wet ‘n dry sandpaper.
Strangely during re-assemble I found it a real pain to get the sump pipe onto the drain pump. Consider getting a suitable worm drive clip for this as it will be a lot easier than messing with the spring clip.
Ensure you get the stator ring round the right way. I didn’t and created a neutron accelerator which formed a worm hole inside the machine and a whole load of little aliens appeared in the drum. ;-)

Posted on Oct 18, 2009

  • phil-ch Jun 11, 2011

    Removal of the weights from the front of the tub is good advice.These are supported on spigots and are easily removed and replaced. Bearings are easily knocked out by using a socket and extension bar (or similar drift) against the centre race while supporting the bearing housing. The old bearings can be used to drift in the new bearings. In my case the output shaft was badly corroded where the seal operated and the spider/shaft assembly had to be replaced. Replacing the drum can be tricky for one person. I used a wooden baton and adjustable luggage strap to suspend the drum in order to reconnect the dampers. Spring clips present no problems if you use a mole wrench. If you need to remove the heating element it is better to do this after the drum has been split. Mine was firmly "cemented" into the support bracket by lime scale. Many thanks to the previous contributors, their info. made the job much easier than doing it blind.

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