I've got the mixer apart apart, but don't know how to fix it.
SOURCE: The kitchenaid speed lever is bent and jammed
Hi TIMDEIST, I hate it when you drop your mixer... they’re really not designed for gravity testing. Let’s see what you can do to get it fixed and operable again. The good news is that this can be fixed quite easily (OK, maybe a little effort) by yourself, if you are a DITY type person, feel adventurous, and your mixer is not under warranty. Be sure you have the Parts List manual on hand. If you're lacking one, you can download a PDF version from the KA website at: http://www.kitchenaid.com/flash.cmd?/#/page/home.
Click on Customer Care>Locate Manuals& Guides> then enter the visitor type “Consumer” and enter the 6 character model number, in this case K45SSW, and then select the file under Parts List (1) K45SSWH0.pdf (341.41 KB) (definitely check to see it this matches your mixer).
Although not providing step by step instructions, the Parts List manual provides an exploded view of the various component assemblies allowing you to see how the mixer all fits together. It is helpful for the disassembly, troubleshooting, and reassembly of your mixer.
Turn to pages 6 & 7, titled “Motor And Control Parts”, and locate Ill. Nos. 1, 2, 3, & 4. #3 is your Switch Lever and stud. If you can’t straighten it out then you will need to replace it. It might also be a good idea to check and see if anything else might be out of alignment due to the sudden stop when it was dropped.
As far as parts go, here are five potential vendors in no particular order: RepairClinic.com; mendingshed.com; searspartsdirect.com; partstore.com; and Grainger.com (for grease). Prices can vary widely between vendors, so do some comparison shopping. Here are some links to several excellent websites that detail the disassembling/greasing and reassembly of a KA Mixer.
Finally, here are some links to several excellent websites that detail the disassembling/reassembly of a KA Mixer.
Between these three websites and their excellent pictures and descriptions and your Parts List manual, you should now be able to completely disassemble, fix/replace your Switch Lever, and reassemble your mixer.
Good luck, I hope this helps. Howard, Burke, VA
If this solution was helpful, please rate it, thanks! – hslincoln
SOURCE: My mixer wont turn off...the speed lever wont stay
i have this same problem!! mine is less than a yr old. im upset that i paid so much for this problem. love the mixer but dang, this shouldnt be happening.
Hi Debbie, W/D here.
You can certainly repair this mixer yourself. You will need an exploded diagram, and will need to tear it down to locate and replace the damaged part(s). In your mixer, there are two parts that sound suspect. They are the control plate and the control board, numbered #36 and #39 in the diagram (link) that follows. The link that I'm directing you to is very user friendly; you can toggle back and forth between the various drawings and see everything that goes into making a mixer. It's not very complicated to work on. You can use the diagrams as a guide to getting to the parts. Here are a few things to consider, if this is something unfamiliar to you: 1. Print the schematics, and make notes on the schematics as you go. 2. Use a sharpie to mark terminals as to the color of the wires connecting to each. Pictures and sketches are even better, making re-assembly a snap. A cell phone camera may be good enough. You can also mark wires by using painter's tape and a sharpie, showing what connects to where. I generally use all of the above, and it serves me well. The reason to tear it down to the parts mentioned is that there are several versions of each part in the diagram. There is a picture of each part in the parts list, so you will be able to readily identify your part. Also, you may be able to visually determine which part is defective. Since each part runs in the $30 range, you can save some money if you can see that one part shows signs of damage, and the other doesn't. If you can't determine which one it is, replace both. Keep all of the parts that you remove together.
Make sure that the power is OFF before making any attempt to repair/tear down/re-assemble the mixer.
Here's the link. Best regards and good luck, --W/D--
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=239779&diagram_id=28194300#d28194300
SOURCE: I don't have a problem I just wanted to know
Except for asthetics and whatever obvious trim such as handles on bowls, etc, there is NO PRACTICAL DIFFERENCE; both mixers are outstanding appliances.
There has always been ONGOING MODIFICATIONS in motor design, relating mostly to formation of the electromagnetic flux and other intangibles, you will find OLDER KSM90s may have a slightly higher degree of OVERBUILDING- such as COPPER plating flashed on the back end of the carbon brushes to improve effciency, reduce heat, and lower electricl resistance, another example is oil wick felts included with the rear bearing assembly to help lubrication on older models. In both cases its over-engineering and it costs money- Ive never been able to read difference between the two carbon brushes on a Watt meter in actual use, nor have I ever actually seen, in more than 30 years mostly as authorized warranty service center more than just one single WORN rear bearing (from a mixer in a science lab, not a kitchen) with or without the oil wick felt- thats out of several hundred thousand mixers!
Newer mixers lack other similar accoutrements which had proven to provide limited tangible benifit on a practcal level.
KitchenAid keeps knowledgeable staff available at their 800 phone line at customer service to go into this subject without the unnecessary technical depth I've given,, and they may yet recall my name after these many years -DeSantis (Im the [disabled] son, JD2, not the grandson)- from the Trenton/central NJ area.
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