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Will not turn on - KitchenAid 32685 Mixer

Posted by rbhardecker on


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This can be caused by a number of things. The first thing to check will be the carbon brushes located on the left and right sides of the unit. Just simply unscrew the caps with a straight screwdriver. Once removed your can clearly see the shape of the carbon brushes. If they appear to have little or no wear and aren't broken, this won't be the cause of this problem. Also take note when you take them out AND put them back in as they willl only fit ONE way. The next thing to check will be the main control at the rear of the unit. After removing the power source, you can also remove the rear access panel. A phillips screwdriver is required. Next after removing the panel, you can now see the main board. Inspect it for any immediate signs of broken or burned wires also check the bi-metal on the control itself, as this will often indicate a faulty board. If however, everything looks good visibly and you still have no power to the unit, the last possible solution could be that the power cord itself has an internal problem. Hope this helps


Posted on Dec 02, 2009

  • 3 more comments 
  • Matthew Bunn
    Matthew Bunn Mar 03, 2014

    Just a quick amplification. If you have messed with the brushes double check that they replaced correctly. They can fit inside the mixer and still be facing the wrong way. Get a flashlight and check for the little block that holds them in the correct position.

  • Maureen Monaghan
    Maureen Monaghan May 24, 2014

    wow thanks!! I just bought a kitchen aid mixer at Goodwill for $25 because it wasn't working. Hubby re-checked the brushes after I read this post and sure enough the 2nd time it turned on!!

  • Loren Ostroff
    Loren Ostroff Dec 25, 2014

    I cannot believe that just worked! I called KitchenAid and they told me my only option was to take it to an appliance repair shop. All I did was wipe off the carbon pieces and it started working again! Thanks so much.

  • Papi Oso
    Papi Oso Aug 26, 2015

    Another quick check that might help is simply moving the cord around while it's plugged in and turned on ON THE LOWEST SETTING. If it's a break in the cord (especially likely near the plug or mixer end), the movement might re-establish the connection just long enough to bring the mixer to life. This is especially likely if you move your mixer a lot, and wind up the cord to do it. If it does, that's your culprit, and it will save you time, money, and frustration. Now- just because it didn't come on doesn't mean it's NOT the cord- but it's one quick and cheap way to check it.

    Remember Occhem's Razor- "The simplest answer is very often the right one.

    CRYSTAL G M Dec 07, 2018 saver! It was the carbon brushes!




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Electrical parts can appear to be good but can still be bad. They must be tested by somebody qualified in diagnostic procedures of electrical problems.

Most likely the cord won't be the problem unless it's where the cord terminates or the cord flexes during use. Constant flexing will cause wire to break eventually and sometimes even the best assemblers in the world can muss up a terminal connection. This can even pass quality control as they only test if the connection is made (one out of the 22 conductors can be made and it'll pass the QC check and the first load that's put on it will blow the one wire that should have been 22 times as strong) and not if it will handle a load. mind you, it was the fault of the assemblers, not the user.

The individual components such as resistors, capacitors, diodes, transistors, and other things failure rates are actually based on the purity of the components that made them and the cleanliness of the room they were assembled in. For a well designed piece of equipment, you can expect the failures to be because of these reasons. for not so well designed pieces... you get the idea.

Last thing you have to consider is the craftsmanship used in assembling the item. Was it designed and assembled to last forever or was it designed right using correct materials but assembled by somebody that didn't even care if all the parts got in correctly.

Posted on Jan 26, 2013


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Kitchenaid mixer - turns once and turns off, worm gear is fine


Usually, the beater not turning or not turning under a load is due to a damaged gear, but there are other components in them to check.

There is the worm gear, pinion gear, bevel pinion gear, internal ring gear and the attachment hub gear. The worm follower gear is usually the most common and is usually obviously stripped. However, it could be other gears damaged or worn.

The other part to check would be the motor bearings and the motor bearing plate. These require a bit more taking apart to get to but could be causing the issue.

You can find the full-service manual for your mixer online at

Hope this helps.

KitchenAid Experts

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Is the humming noise the sound of the motor straining to turn without moving (it won't last very long like that) or the sound of the motor turning but not operating the paddle?

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The RR of your model number stands for reconditioned, your actual model number is K5A, I believe that the side trim band says Hobart on the side, if not you may have a new trim band (Generic type) put on during the reconditioning to pretty it up. In any event in the back of the mixer is an end cover, at the top is a small Phillips head screw, remove it and lift the end cover up and slightly out, (because there are two small and fragile clips on the back that can be easily broken off, they help hold the end cover in place so up and out ) once the cover is removed you will see a black and copper plate with three chrome screws on it in an upside down triangle shape, the two top screws are for adjusting speeds from stir to 6, the lower one is for adjusting speeds from 6 to 10, Turn the screw on the top left to the left a quarter turn while the mixer is in the stir position. it should start turning. if not turn the screw on the right a quarter turn, the mixer should start, if not turn back the other way (both top screws a half turn) if it machine does not start then there is a strong possibility that it is the bottom screw, the bottom screw can and sometimes does get turned in or out due to the pressure caused by contact that it makes with the speed control switch bar attached to the side speed control switch, so let's try that one, turn it counterclockwise or clockwise (no more than one full turn) a quarter turn at a time, if it is the bottom center screw causing the problem then it should start within a full turn, try not to turn the screw in either direction more than one full turn as you can really screw up your speed settings. Don't panic I am probably making it sound more difficult than it really is, just remember that a little is a lot. I am a KA tech and every machine that I have worked on that has a low speed not working correctly it has turned out to be these 3 screws.

If your machine goes to high speed from the get go no matter where you put the speed switch, well that is another problem, but if your machine is not working on lower speeds when set to the lower speed and it does work at higher speeds when the switch is set to the higher speeds then it is the 3 adjusting screws on the speed control plate. hope this helps if not let us know

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