Question about Kitchen Ranges
When i turn the oven on the digital reads 350, then after 5 secs it reads PF and the oven stops working
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Sir, I think the top oelement is for broiling ONLY. It should not turn on when baking. The clicking may be the oven heating up.
How far apart were the oven temp instrument and the digital?
Don't expect them to match...they are inaccurate.
1. Heat water until it boils. Place digital therm in boiling water until it comes up to 212deg. If it is not at 212 in boiling water, record the error.(this gives a rough calibration to the digital)
2 Turn on oven, set to 350 deg, place digital therm on rack. Wait until oven reaches 350 (on stove) and read the digital. Note the difference between the two
Posted on Mar 30, 2008
UPDATE to Solution #1: I just went to the Wolf Appliance website and found that the recall is still active, at least for the 48" models. Here's the URL: http://www.wolfappliance.com/recall.aspx There are instructions, affected models and serial numbers, etc. You can also call the "Rework Hotline" at 866-643-6408 or send an email to email@example.com
Posted on Sep 04, 2008
Your f30 problem may be a bad sensor circuit. It may have an open connection or just plain defective sensor. Check the connection between the clock and the sensor as well as disconnect and measure the resistance of the sensor - should be about 1090ohms at room temp (75F)
Posted on Sep 04, 2008
SOURCE: Wolf oven self-clean error 01
Well, ours is working now. We called Wolf, they said the Error 01 indicated a problem with the latching mechanism (that locks the oven during self clean).
We called the local repair outfit (they've been here several times before working on this range), they ordered a latch mechanism and arrived today to install it. The tech this time had worked at an electronic company that I also worked for about 10 years ago (I'm an electrical engineer). So we had a good time talking about the old days and working on the range - I'm always curious about such things. We removed the latching mechanism - its an assembly with a motor and a couple of switches that are used to start and stop the motor. We tested the switches and motor using a meter and power cord. Seemed to be OK. The next thing would be the control board - which we had replaced about 3 years ago - under warranty. Before removing the control board we reinstalled the latch mechanism - and, of course, everything worked fine.
We were both a little dismayed about the quality of the assembly of the range - the wiring looks more like a rat's nest than the tidy routing that we'd like to see.
So, bottom line, neither of us knows what the problem was. Could have been a food particle lodged in the switching mechanism, an intermittent connection or ???.
One thing I noticed as we checked out both ovens: We put the small oven (the one that was having problems) in self clean for a couple of minutes - was OK. Then we turned it off and turned the larger oven to clean mode - when we did that, "OPP" appeared on the display. The tech said that was because the latch of the smaller oven was not in its stop position yet. We gave it a few more seconds then tried clean mode on the other oven and it was fine. I mention that because OPP appeared on the small oven once or twice when we (my wife and I) were initially trying to figure out what the problem was. There's probably a hint in there somewhere as to what the real problem was.
At any rate, its working again ($115 later) but I'm not real confident that it will continue. Next time, I'll open it up myself (not recommended). <g>.
Posted on Nov 07, 2008
Set the oven for bake. Wait a couple minutes and look in the oven. If you see a orange glow the ignitor is working, but, may need to be replaced.
If you see no orange glow the ignitor definitely needs to be replaced.
Posted on Feb 21, 2009
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This means a
loose/broken wire on the oven temp sensor or the oven temp. sensor itself is
bad and should be replaced. To solve this issue test the oven temp. sensor, it
should read between 1080-1120 ohms, if the rating is more then that and the
door appears to be closing fine then it is the control board that is bad and
should be replaced. Hope this helps...please post back for further assistance.
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