My blower comes on the heating element comes on the gas comes on then the burner lights for about 4 or 5 seconds and goes out. This process is repeated 3 times then faults out, I have changed the flame sensor with no change.

• What Is Electronic Ignition?

  Jupiterimages/Getty images The electronic ignition system in a gas furnace is a modern development that provides more reliable performance than a standing pilot and offers energy savings through better furnace efficiency. There are two basic types of electronic ignition systems:
  
  • An intermittent pilot system uses an electronically controlled high-voltage electric spark to ignite a pilot light and subsequently the main burners when the thermostat calls for heat.
  • A hot surface ignition system uses an electronically controlled resistance heating element, not unlike a light bulb filament, to ignite the gas burner.
  Understanding some of the basic components of a modern furnace will help you identify the type of furnace you have and narrow down the list of potential problems.
  
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  Types of Electronic Ignition Furnaces

  
  Design Pics/Getty images Most furnaces with electronic ignition are either conventional induced draft furnaces or high-efficiency condensing furnaces.
  Induced draft furnaces use a small fan to draw the combustion gasses from the combustion chamber and out of the house through the flue (chimney). This system is more reliable and safer than old conventional furnaces, which relied on a natural draft coming in from an opening at the front of the furnace. Induced draft furnaces use either an intermittent pilot (IP) or hot surface ignition (HSI) instead of a standing pilot light. The combination of electronic ignition, electronic controls, and artificially created draft improves the efficiency of induced draft furnaces over older conventional models.
  Condensing furnaces use two heat exchangers, where conventional furnaces use only one. After the gas is burned to heat the primary heat exchanger, the secondary heat exchanger draws heat out of the hot exhaust gasses, cooling them to the point that the water vapor in the exhaust condenses into water. The resulting flue gases are so cool they can be vented outside via a plastic (PVC) pipe, while the condensed water is run to a floor drain. Condensing furnaces use hot surface ignition (HSI).
  
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  Troubleshooting an Intermittent Pilot (IP)

  
  Michael Interisano / Design Pics / Getty images Typically found in induced draft furnaces, an intermittent pilot ignites the burner gas with a high-voltage spark only when the thermostat calls for heat. Once the pilot is lit, and the main burner senses the pilot flame (using a flame sensing rod), the main burner ignites. The intermittent pilot flame goes out after the heating cycle and remains off until the next time the thermostat calls for heat.
  The furnace gas valve for this type of furnace is identifiable with its solenoid designations: MV, PV, and PV/MV - where MV = main valve, PV = pilot valve, and PV/MV = common.
  Common problems with IP ignition include:
  
  • Ignition doesn't occur, and the furnace won't go on
  • A spark is present, but the pilot won't light
  • Pilot lights, but the main burner doesn't come on
  • Burners ignite but turn off after a few seconds
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  Troubleshooting a Hot Surface Igniter (HSI)

  The hot surface igniter (HSI) is the most commonly used electronic ignition system. It works like a light bulb filament, heating up when electricity is passed through it. Most are made from silicon nitride or silicon carbide. The igniter is located in the flow of gas entering the burners.
  When the thermostat calls for heat, 24 volts are sent to the electronic ignition control module, which energizes the furnace blower and other systems and sends 120 volts to the HSI. The HSI heats up to around 1,800°F to 2,500°F and glows red-hot. Then the gas valve opens, and the burner gas is ignited by the HSI. Once a proper flame is sensed by the flame sensor, the HSI turns off and stays off until the next heating cycle. In some furnaces, the HSI also serves as a flame sensor (called local sensing) instead of having a separate sensing rod in the burner flame (remote sensing).
  Under normal conditions, an HSI should last for three to five years, and they eventually crack and need to be replaced. This can happen sooner if the oils from your skin get on the element through improper handling. That means: Don't touch the element with your bare hands!
  HSIs usually cost between $25 and $50, and it's a good idea to keep a spare on hand, in case one goes out at night or on the weekend, when you can't easily get a new part.
  Here are some of the common causes of HSI failure:
  
  • Premature failure due to improper handling (oil from skin got onto element)
  • Improper igniter
  • End of normal usage life cycle (keep a replacement on hand)
  • Voltage in the furnace electrical circuit is too high (over 125 VAC)
  • Severely dirty air filter, causing the high-temperature limit switch to cycle the furnace ignition on and off frequently
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  Reading Control Board Codes

  
  Mohd Firdaus Mohd Damanhuri/EyeEm/Getty images Most modern furnaces with electronic ignition systems have an integrated circuit board that controls many sophisticated processes. The boards can perform self-diagnostics and provide failure codes, similar to the diagnostic computer in your car.
  If a failure occurs, LED lights on the control board light up in a blinking pattern to indicate a specific failure code. The codes are listed in a chart in the owner's manual and usually on a door or access panel on the furnace. Control boards are usually located inside the blower compartment of the furnace. If the board has blinking lights, refer to the chart to decipher the code and help identify the problem area with the furnace.

Furnace burner and heat element are not the same. I think the fan time delay, a sensor that turns the fan on when this sensor senses heat, is shot and needs replacing, for a furnace type heat ( gas heat)

Check out the flame sensor see if it is clean and check the connections .

It could be two things flame sencor needs cleaning of conections not tight or the pressure switch is not working try jumping it out and see if it lights

Goes out or is blowen out ? could be a short pilot needs cleaning

Thermocouple could need replacing or the heat exchanger is split and the fan is blowing it out

You may wish to remove and clean the burner assembly, sometimes a high pressure air blower tool connected to an air compressor is sufficient. Often a problem like this is related to dirt, lint, or rust.

Sounds like the rollout is being tripped from the blower moving the falmes. i would have your heat exchanger checked for cracks or holes as this is usually the reason the blower moves the burner flames to tripp a rollout.

The ignitor heats up , then the gas comes on and lights...then the ignitor goes out....this is normal.....if the burners ignite and then go out again after about 4 seconds and the whole process starts again , then u have a dirty flame sensor more than likely and it will need to be cleaned

clean the burners

Welcome jessegonzales
Check the outside vent leaving your house does not have a screen on it.
Take the screen off. Even half blocked and the dryer will not dry well.



Possible solutions

1. Defective Heating Element

The heat produced from heating elements is measured in watts and a normal heating element will produce about 4500 watts of heat. If the heat element is shorted to the case, this will cause the heating element to operate on 110v and use only about 1/2 of the element wire. In effect, the heat produced will be only about 1/4 of the amount that should be produced and the end result is an increased drying time.
The normal method for checking a heating element is to check it continuity. With the element unplugged you can check the continuity from one wire post to the next. If the circuit is open, thent he heating element is faulty.
However keep in mind that the element could be shorted to the case as described above. In this situation it is possible to have continuity, but the element still be the source of the problem.
Let me know.
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2. Defective Heating ElementThe heat produced from heating elements is measured in watts and a normal heating element will produce about 4500 watts of heat. If the heat element is shorted to the case, this will cause the heating element to operate on 110v and use only about 1/2 of the element wire. In effect, the heat produced will be only about 1/4 of the amount that should be produced and the end result is an increased drying time.
The normal method for checking a heating element is to check it continuity. With the element unplugged you can check the continuity from one wire post to the next. If the circuit is open, then
the heating element is faulty.
However keep in mind that the element could be shorted to the case as described above. In this situation it is possible to have continuity, but the element still be the source of the problem.

3.Defective Thermostat
The thermostats are responsible for maintaining the proper temperature in the dryer. Check the exhaust temperature of the dyer and if the temperature is above 150 degrees, you will most likely need to change the operating thermostat.

The thermostat can also fail in the opposite mode. It can prevent the element from heating at all. A failed continuity check at room temperature will verify this condition.

There are some special thermostats that are single pole double throw. These thermostats are often used to control the timer when set to the Automatic Dry cycle. If the dryer timer will advance in the Timed Dry cycle but not the Automatic Dry cycle, then the thermostat could be the problem.

4. Defective Gas Valve Coil (Gas Dryer Only)

If the gas dryer will light once but will not relight until it cools down, it is likely the gas valve coils are faulty. These coils loose some strength when subjected to heat. When they become old, the addition of heat may be enough to prevent them from opening the gas valve when hot. However the coils still work when when cool.

An easy way to diagnose the coils when the burner is not lighting, watch the ignitor. If the the ignitor glows for 10 to 15 seconds but no flame is created, then the coils are faulty. If the ignitor is not glowing the problem is elsewhere.

Recent Customer Symptoms:
The dryer burner doesn't always come on when starting. If the burner does come on, once it goes off if won't come on again until the dryer cools down.

One of these will solve the problem!
Thank You
Huuum.
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