Engine indicator lights on

engine swaps, with battery Neg lug pulled the whole time.?

• short block? 2.5L?
• long block?
• or total engine swap, all wiring , and sensor,,injectors, and all, (ALL)

causes
not connecting all connectors backup
or not moving all sensors over old to new engine,
if the IMMO lamp glows correctly way ask that, the users guide tell this on all cars. dead,stuck on, or blinks. in the manual is how.
BCM brain is not happy for sure, it runs horns and lights. and more.
same engine exactly?
to pull and engine lots of connectors can be missed or crushed.

if all is done right
and fails
pull battery neg lug for 1 hour, and put back see if BCM resets as it well. all brain boxes resets PCM/TCM /BCM and well all do.

did you buy a dead car? and never seen he IMMO work ever you?
open glove box take out users guide and read IMMO page

IMMO page 2-5 glove box words

The security indicator light deters potential thieves by
indicating that the vehicle is equipped with an immobi-
lizer system. It begins flashing about 60 seconds after
the ignition switch is turned from the "ON" position to
the "ACC" or "LOCK" position or immediately after the
key is pulled out.
If the security indicator light does not flash, the immo-
bilizer system may be faulty. If this occurs, contact
your SUBARU dealer as soon as possible.
In case an unauthorized key is used (e.g. an imitation
key), the security indicator light comes on.
NOTE
Even if the security indicator light flashes irregu-
larly or its fuse blows (the light does not flash if its
fuse is blown), the immobilizer system will func-
tion normally


https://www.manualslib.com/manual/232319/Subaru-2005-Forester.html?term=2-5&selected=2&page=117#manual

This isn't really enough information, but it sounds like the ground straps inside the engine compartment are causing this problem. The salt/age on the road will cause the connections to become corroded and then the car is "lighting up" all lights for indicators. Fix the grounds and then if you have the problem it may be a ailing computer control box, alternator or starter ground cable. If it is a Chrysler product you could have a belt tension part going!

Hi there;I suggest scanned the computer car in order to know additional fault codes. Check other details HERE.


The Check Engine light may come on, indicating a system problem when, in fact, there is a poor or intermittent electrical connection. First, check the electrical connections, clean or repair connections if necessary.


The Check Engine light and D4 light may light simultaneously when the self-diagnosis indicator blinks.


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I would change out the ECU box. They are under $130 (or you can buy used one like I did). They are easy to change out yourself and are usually located under the floor mat/carpet on the passenger side. I tried the reset thing on my old 93 Honda several times and when I changed it out completely, my problem was solved.

I am guessing ignition module:

http://www.hondacarforum.com/honda-technical/68469-where-ignition-module-control-unit-1994-honda-accord-lx.html

it could be the computer box. it could be the starter better have a mechanic come to your place before deciding to buy a computer box to make sure.

Generally this would be related to either a vacuum leak, an idle speed control motor or a throttle positioin sensor. The computer uses these things to determine where to set the idle at after interpreting all of the data "sensed". You can check for vacuum leaks with a can of carburetor cleaner by sprayng a small amount using the extension tube, near the vacuum connections and the throttle body and air intake components. IF you spray a small amount at a time you won't have a potential fire hazard. When carb cleaner is sucked in through a vacuum leak, the engine slows down & this will identify a spefic location or hose.

You could stop by your local parts store & probably get a free scan for the check engine light & that could indicate more readily what a problem could be. good luck

It is most certainly the "main relay". It's a small gray (sometimes brown) plastic box tucked up behind the left dash vent. It controls the fuel delivery. It's secured with 10mm on top of your cruise control computer. It would be visible with a flashlight if you lay your head on the floor (with your head almost touching your gas pedal, seriously). Unbolt it, unplug it and then carefully pry of the plastic cover. If you have good eyes or look really CLOSE you'll see the cold solder pin (broken connection). The break will be thinner than a human hair. Heat that pin up with a soldering gun and watch it puddle back into shape to make the connection and you're good for another 100k miles :)

that is your 'check engine' light.if it stays on, one or more sensors on your engine has sent a 'trouble code' to the on-board computer.a diagnostic code reader needs to be connected to it to determine the cause.