Question about Kenmore 79012 / 79014 / 79019 Gas Kitchen Range
The burners come on and work just fine, but the oven isn't coming on? I'm not sure what make/model the oven is but it is a Kenmore- has 4 burners and the oven and it sits on the floor,
I was looking for a solution to my problem. In reading the comments, I can probably provide more information than is given here. My Kenmore gas oven won't ignite. I have over 25 years as an electronics techincian so I am very aware of lethal voltages. I unplugged my stove, it is a 120 volt model. After pulling the panel off so I could get to the thermostat which is the piece the knob goes on, I plugged the stove in and checked to make sure I have 120VAC to the thermostat. I have a red wire which has 120Vac, the thermostat probe wires, and a yellow wire which goes down to the back of the oven.
My red wire had 120Vac. I then unplugged the stove, very important at this point, and meaured with an ohmmeter across the yellow and red wires. When the oven is in the off position this is open. When I turn the oven on it is shorted. That should confirm the thermostat switch works. The next thing that has to happen is the glow bar/igniter has to glow. This is like all gas appliances, it has to glow to heat the gas valve and turn the gas on. My igniter doesn't glow so I ordered a new igniter. If your glow bar glows, it could still be the glow bar/igniter or the gas valve is not allowing gas to flow even after it is heated up.
If anyone sees a problem with this procedure, please let me know.
Posted on Aug 16, 2013
SOURCE: oven quit working
Hi. this is common in many old gas range ovens. There is a set of coils that are attached to the gas valve assembly. These coils , when activated and operational, open and close the main and secondary valves in this unit. They are controlled by the main ERC(clock/oven control board). I recommend checking these coils and there respective wiring harnesses. if the clips and wires are worn and corroded, simply replace the entire wire harness.
Now, if the wiring harness and wires that are connected to the coils look good and there are no signs of corrosion on the wires and connector clips, this will confirm that the coils have failed and you will need to replace them.
You can also preform an additional test with a multimeter. simply connect your multimeter or voltage meter to both terminal posts located on the coils. once your meter is connected, start the oven cycle. you should register some sort of current during this test at this time. if the current is sufficient and the coils do not initiated the valve action, this will confirm coil failure. if the meter dosen't register a current during oven operation, this will confirm ERC(control) failure. you will have to replace the Oven control board in this case.
The Most common issue in this situation will most defiantly be the coil assembly and not the control.
Please rate and god bless:)
Posted on Apr 21, 2009
The problem lies within your oven control board. This is very common and are not very hard to replace but they are expensive. You can check the price of a new control board at sears parts.
Posted on Dec 30, 2008
check the burner socket, it is likely that contact is being lost where the burner connects to the hardwired portion of the system (the socket). It is not unusual for the socket to "burn up" when there is a poor connection to the burner resulting in the burner being replaced and the new burner not working or working intermittently.
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Posted on Jan 29, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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