Asko WCAM1812 Front Load Washer / Dryer - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

CANT U JUST ADD A NEW WIRE U CUT AND SPLICE INTO IT? ADDING A CONNECTING END

CHECK FOR A BLOWN FUSE IN PANEL>?

You need to have a repairman check the heating elements.

You pulled the wire out of the terminal. You need a crimp tool and a terminal of the proper size to crimp the wire back into a terminal. Not hard to do if you have the proper equipment. Do not solder a wire to a crimp terminal!

http://www.repairclinic.com/Asko-Washer-Dryer-Combo-Parts?z=100

I recently had this same problem. There is a spinning wheel inside the pump that has likely detached from the motor. Upon removing the back of the unit, you will see a water pump on the bottom left of the unit. There are three screws attaching the pump to the rest of the assembly, remove the screws and detach the motor, out should pop out a red spinning wheel. I Gorilla glued mine back on, and it sounds better than before the grinding noise.

the rubber seal is easily replaced and can be bought on line

I have the same problem, did you find out anything?

On the bottom right of the machine, with a coin trap door. Twist the knob left (on the inside of the door) and pull out towards you. Make sure you lay a towel down beneath your machine and the floor because water will come out with the knob.

Hi, If you are having problems with your gas dryer not heatingthe most common problem is that the ignitor goes bad. Even though it glowssometimes it is still not working properly. if you dryer is gas check out this gas no heat tip.... If you have an electric dryer, you can have many differentthings that can go wrong causing the dryer not to heat. check outthis electric no heat tip...

heatman101,./'l';

hold down the "cycle signal" button for 3-5 sec. unplug and plug back in. should clear and reset computer

Hi,

There can be many reasons why your dryer will not start or turn...

The most common causes are the belt breaking or jumping off, or the motor going bad...

Here are a couple of tips that I wrote will help you to figure out why your dryer will not run...

Dryer Repair - The Dryer is not Turning

Dryer Repair - The dryer will not start


heatman101
////./

Disconnect power then remove the clamp that holds the door gasket to the outer lip of the door opening. Once the clamp is off, peel the door gasket off near the door lock. Remove the screws securing the door lock to the front panel and take the lock out of the machine cabinet. Transfer the wires to the new lock then install it into place. Put the door gasket over the outer lip of the door opening and secure it with the clamp to complete the repair.

as the main motor in the machine is the one that does the work it is obvious to check this 1st it could be that th e motor brushes need replacing if this is the case use without brush replacement will damage the motor quite a simple job seek an engineer if not compedent

Maybe the heating element overheated and tripped the auto shut-off button? Try this:

http://www.fixya.com/support/t1763339-asko_washer_dryer_wcam_1812_dryer_not

Update: The dry cycle is now working! Apparently the automatic overload/shut off on the heating element got tripped. We had a technician out this morning. He unplugged the machine, removed the top of the unit, and simply pushed a little red/orange button that was on top of the heating element. When we plugged it back in the heating element worked again. The technician was able to troubleshoot this by checking the amps while running the dry cycle. But the proof was really when we did a load and the machine heated up (just like it used to) during the dry cycle. This was actually a relatively simply fix - though could be dangerous as you have to open up the electrical area. The reset button is rather inconspicuous and located on top of the heating element, which is long (runs front to back in the center part of the top of the machine - which you can get to by removing the lid/top outer housing) and silver - wrapped in insulation. It's pretty obvious. The button is in a little metal fixture on top of the heating element. The technician told us that the rest can get tripped when the unit overheats. (We think this happened when the laundry tub overfilled and the hose was totally submerged - the machine was working overtime to pump out the water.) The technician also warned that this can happen if the machine gets turned off suddenly mid-cycle - especially during the drying cycle. He said that the heating element gets so hot, it needs to have a gentle cool down period, which is marked on the dryer dial for the last 20 minutes of the cycle. I hope this helps others!

They never make these things easy. Help in the link https://www.google.com/search?q=Asko+dishwasher+D5634+drain+pump+replacement ..

Question edited for clarity. Duplicated question deleted. Refresh the page to see your question. When a machine stops mid cycle is usually because the pump is jammed with something that was in the wash or the pump has failed. If the board calls for the pump to run and it doesn't within 2 seconds or so, it will stop all actions. You can try a proper Power Reset. Disconnect over night, press and hold the power button for a full minute, then plug is back in. It may also be a Control Board fault. Ideas in the link. https://www.google.com/search?q=Asko+W6424W+washing+machine+froze+mid+cycle+ll+of+the+lights+flashing ..

No wash agitation or spin? try these: WATER PRESSURE SWITCH: This switch keeps your washer from overflowing. It is responsible for shutting off the power to the fill valve and redirects the power to the timer to start the washing machine running once the correct water level has been reached. Meter check ur water pressure switch? You can test it with a meter and with a manual test? ( first locate it in the panel, it has a plastic clear tube hose going into it, remove that tube from its connection, now put another small tube or hose into the slot where it was and have the machine set to wash cycle with water in it. Blow into the other end of the tube. If the machine starts to wash. the pressure switch is more than likely good ( No wash starts - then THE DIAPHRAGM IS BAD AND SWITCH HAS TO BE REPLACED) another test u can do is Remove the hose and submerge in water. Seal one end and blow air into the other end and look for bubbles. Check for an obstruction in the hose as well. Or take the original hose tube and plug one end and blow into it AT the other end, it should be hard and have pressure, if it is easy to blow and u dont feel any pressure and it feels like the air is going out ? Sometimes they get busted open or a pin hole and release air causing the water switch diaphragm to not open. Another test u can make with a multi meter is by testing the prongs individually. # 15,16,17 (don't worry to much bout the numbers IF U GET THEM WRONG) place ur meter prongs on both out side prongs or connectors of the switch. (where the wire plugs into) take note of weather it shows OHMS or infinity ( open or close circuit) ? Now place the meter on the left outside and the middle prong, take note agin what it shows. Now place meter prong on the right outside and the middle prong. Agin take note what reading u get. ( you should actually get a reading of infinity in 1 and a reading of continuity or ohms in the other 2? Now the tricky part. Agin place a small tube or hose into the switch and blow into it, using the meter do the same test agin on all prongs. But now keep the pressure on the switch when u blow into it, in other words use ur tongue on one end of tube to not allow air to escape. When u test it agin now one of the prongs that once read infinity should now show continuity or ohms, and 1 of the other prongs that read ohms should now read infinity or open. . Motor Coupling If the washer won't spin or agitate the motor coupling might have failed. The motor coupling connects the motor to the washer transmission. It is designed to fail if the washer is overloaded in order to protect both the motor and Drive Belt If the washer won't spin or agitate, check the drive belt. If the belt is broken or if it isn't tight on the pulleys the washer won't spin or agitate properly. mode shifter and or Drive Motor If the washer won't spin or agitate the drive motor might be defective. This is not common. Check all of the other related parts to this symptom before replacing the motor. If the motor is visibly burned out or physically damaged, replace it. Stator Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the stator assembly might be burned out. The stator is essentially one half of a motor, it interacts with the tub by creating a strong electro-magnet. If the stator burns out the washer won't spin or agitate. Check the stator for continuity. This part is often misdiagnosed. Transmission or clutch assembly not engaging due to going out or slipping. Door or Lid Latch Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the lid switch assembly might be defective. This is a very common problem. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any electrical switches with an Ohm meter for continuity. The switches should have continuity according to their design. Door Lock Motor and Switch Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the door lock assembly should be checked. The door lock can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any switches on the door lock with an Ohm meter. The switches should have continuity according to their design. Motor Control Board If the washer won't spin or agitate the motor control board might be defective. The motor control board provides power to the motor as well as direction and force. If the motor control board is defective the washer may not work at all or function properly. CHECK THE CAM DOGS INSIDE THE AGITATOR, AS THEY WILL HINDER THE AGITATION PROCESS. However in G.E models the cam dogs are replaced with what is called an agitator coupler. (located at bottom of tub) Remember to check the agitator spline as well for worn broken teeth.

Videos in this link https://www.google.com/search?q=inlet+valve+replacement+ASKO+D5544 Funny plastic clip shown removed in this link https://genuineapplianceparts.com.au/dishwasher-parts/441586-asko-dishwasher-inlet-valve.html ..