How do i test the rectifier regulator on 1981 1100gl?

Its better u take it to a motorcycle service, they can check the voltage that the scooter produces to charge the battery, maybe its the regulator or the magnetic field.

Ahhh Mercury electrical... always a problem. The charging system on a mercury is really simple. You should have 2 yellow wires coming from the under the flywheel and possibly a black one running with them. These are high voltage a/c. They run to the rectifier/regulator which converts the a/c to d/c and sets the voltage to around 14 volts. To test the charging circuit, disconnect the yellow wires from the rectifier/regulator, *CAUTION HIGH VOLTAGE!* hook up a meter, set to read a/c volts to the two yellow wires and crank the engine, be careful not to touch the wire ends while doing this, it could be a shocking experience. You are just looking for any voltage above 12 volt a/c. If you start the engine during this test you could see upward of 100 volts. If this test fails replace the charging coil under the flywheel, it the one with the yellow wires that you just tested. Chances are this test passed with flying colors.So plug it back in and test the rectifier/regulator. Disconnect the red wire(s) and set your meter to read > 12 d/c volts, there may be 2 red wires. Start the engine and test from the red wire(s) to engine ground, you should see >12vdc. 99.9% of the time this test fails. So replace the rectifier/regulator. It is the weakest link. They will fail for something as simple as a loose or corroded battery terminal.

Agree with Bill, sounds like a Regulator. You can take the regulator off and have a shop test it before you buy one. If it tests OK then must be faulty alternator.

It sounds like its possibly a bad regulator/rectifier. I have posted a link to a video on how to test your regulator. How to test 2 plug Regulator Rectifier for K6 K7 GSXR 750 600 1000

hi normaly replacing it with another 1 is sometimes the only way to tell, even when tested some electrical items *** up as testing ok, and when you replace them the fault is cured, what is the fault you are getting? is your machine fitted with a seperate voltage regulator, most machines have a regulator rectifier combined, the rectifier converts alternating current ac to direct current dc, where as the regulator controls the amount of voltage, regulator problems overcharging, rectifier problems not charging, and discharging as the rectifier only alows current to travel in 1 direction, when it fails the battery voltage can then travel past it causing a discharging state

yes it could be

check your battery 1st , then check the stator a/c output

• 10 or 16 Amps DC regulated for charging
battery
• Two black leads (C) from stator
• Yellow connector (D) with two pin
terminals
• Two yellow leads (E) to regulator-rectifier
(F)
• One red lead (B) from regulator-rectifier
to red connector output lead (A)
• 10 and 16 Amp systems use the same
stator, color coding and regulator-rectifier
• Alternator output is determined by the
flywheel alternator magnet size


The stator and regulator-rectifier are the same
for the 10 and 16 Amp systems. The system
output is determined by the flywheel magnet
size.
Test Alternator Output
1. Temporarily disconnect stator wire
harness from the regulator-rectifier.
2. Insert RED test lead (A, Figure 28) into the
V ω receptacle in the meter.
3. Insert BLACK test lead (B) into COM
receptacle.
4. Rotate selector to AC Volts position.
5. Insert RED (A) and BLACK (B) test lead
probes into output terminals (D & E) in
YELLOW connector (C). (Test clip leads
may be attached to either terminal).
6. With the engine running at 3600 rpm, the
output should be no less than:
• 20 volts - 10 Amp System
• 30 volts - 16 Amp System
7. If No or Low output is found, check for
bare wires or other defects. If wiring
defects are not found, replace the stator.
voltage depending on alternator type and magnet size

then check the regulator / rectifier , make sure it is grounded properly

make sure battery earth lead is good

i suspect loss of bat voltage is letting the afterfire solenoid close off the main jet

let me know model and type codes off engine & i will try help further

cheers

you will know if the regulator/rectifier goes, if 1, all your lights go much brighter and blow when you rev the bike, or 2, if your battery is not charging. a simple test is to check the voltage at the battery with engine idling, should be about 14volts. There is nothing you can do to prevent the rectifier from going.

The charging system is comprised of a alternator, voltage regulator and a bridge rectifier. If the battery is not calling for power, the voltage regulator will not turn on the alternator. If the battery is calling for power and the alternaotr is on and the rectifier is not working, the power goes to ground.

Check the voltage at the battery with the machine running. You should have 12 or more volts - preferably around 14. Find the rectifier - it will be a cube with cooling fins on it. With a self powered test light, test it. A rectifier is made up of diodes ... the diodes clip off one-half of the AC cycle making rectified AC which charges the battery. Your test light should light in one direction and not the other. If it lights in both directions or neither direction ... your rectifier is suspect.

This is a lot ... when you get this stuff checked ... we will check the next stuff.

hi this might help,normally if the alternator/generater fails you will get no charge voltage at all,if your bike is fitted with an alternator(most later honda models are)then you will have a rectifier and regulator,the rectifier converts the ac voltage from the alternator to dc voltage which is then fed through the regulator and then onto the battery,if the bike is fitted with a generator then you will still have a regulator but no rectifier,a generator develops dc voltage at its source so a rectifier is not needed,a simple way to test the system is with a simple digital volt meter,these are very cheap and reliable and can be got for around 20 bucks,with the engine running at about 1500 -2000rpm test the voltage across the battery with the meter normall voltage at charge should be between 13.8 and 14.8 volts,if you are getting more that this then the regulator is faulty,another way to test the regulator is to slowly lift the engine rpm from idle through to about 3 or 4000rpm the voltage across the battery should not rise any higher than about 14.2-14.8 and it should reach its peak at about 2-2500rpm and not fluctuate more than about 1 volt across the rev range,if the voltage exceeds about 14.8 or fluctuates excessively with engine revs then the regulator needs to be replaced.hope this helps...cheers ian