Motorcycles - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support


Hi, Brad for this scenario you will need your service, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can not find the best tool you ever bought for your Harley, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing and printing please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at xlch@mail.com. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Rebuilding the Harley Davidson Trike 3 Wheeler Electric Reverse Motor...
Harley Davidson Touring Workshop Service Repair Manual 2013
$ 13 for $150 worth of manuals
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2013 Harley Davidson Tri Glide Ultra Classic Owner Manual
Instant Tech Relief To speak to me personally absolutely "FREE"

2011 Harley... | Answered 8 hours ago


Hi, Anonymous the answer to this question is way above my pay grade for this situation, I would call or visit my local dealer or reputable shop's service/parts department and inquire about any possible quick fix, answers, or parts inquiry.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Honda Varadero MK1 XL 1000 Service Manual
http://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda Honda XL1000V Owner Manual
Honda XL1000V Varadero
Honda XL1000V Varadero

2000 Honda XL... | Answered 8 hours ago


Hi, Anonymous before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead acid batteries.
1. Battery Test:
The battery needs to be a fully charged and load tested to ensure proper readings, connections need to be clean and tight. If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV.
2. Charging System Voltage Test:
Start motorcycle, measure DC volts across the battery terminals you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts.
3. Connections and wires:
Inspect the regulator stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to number 4 below to determine if there's a failed component.
4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check: Each of the following tests isolates the Stator & Rotor. If AC output and resistance test fail and stator test passes then the rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage).
5. AC Output Check:
Unplug the regulator plug from the stator start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts. Probe both stator wires with your meter lead. The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specification
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm
45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
Stator Resistance Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale. Probe each stator wires with meter leads and check resistance on the meter.
Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. Reading will vary depending on the system, check the service manual for specifications.
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
5. Stator Ground Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wire with your positive lead on the multimeter and the negative to ground.
There should be no continuity to ground on either wire.
If there is continuity your stator is shorted to ground and must be replaced.
6. Regulator Test:
Each of the following tests isolates the regulator only, so if any of these tests fail, the regulator is at fault.
Identifying Wires:
Battery Charge Lead- Wire going from the regulator to battery positive.
AC output leads- Wires coming from the Stator to the regulator.
Ground- Wire from Regulator to ground or regulator may be grounded via the physical bolting to chassis.
Regulator Ground Test: Ensure the regulator body is grounded or grounding wire is fastened tightly to a good ground (you should verify this by checking continuity from the regulator body to chassis ground).
Fwd/Reverse Bias Test/Diode Test:
This check is testing the Diode function to ensure it is regulating the AC current for the stator into DC Current.
Switch multimeter to Diode Scale.
Place your Multimeter positive lead on each AC output wire.
Place your multimeter negative lead on the battery Charge wire.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the AC output wires and the Positive lead on the Battery Charge Wire. The reading should be Infinite. With your meter on the same setting, place your multimeter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the regulator ground and the Positive lead on the AC output wires. The reading should be Infinite.
Note: Below is a table to show the readings:
Positive Lead Negative Lead Reading
AC output 1 Battery charge lead Voltage
AC output 2 Battery Charge Lead Voltage
Battery charge lead AC output 1 ?
Battery charge lead AC output 2 ?
Ground AC output 1 Voltage
Ground AC output 2 Voltage
AC output 1 Ground ?
AC output 2 Ground ?
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads for viewing and printing that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
http://racetechelectric.com/files/pdf/rte_troubleshooting_flow_chart.pdf
vt 1100 stator vt1100
Honda SHADOW VT1100 Owners Workshop Manual
http://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda
Honda 1999 Shadow Aero VT1100C3 Owner Manual

1998 Honda VT... | Answered 8 hours ago


Hi, Anonymous before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead acid batteries.
1. Battery Test:
The battery needs to be a fully charged and load tested to ensure proper readings, connections need to be clean and tight. If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV.
2. Charging System Voltage Test:
Start motorcycle, measure DC volts across the battery terminals you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts.
3. Connections and wires:
Inspect the regulator stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to number 4 below to determine if there's a failed component.
4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check: Each of the following tests isolates the Stator & Rotor. If AC output and resistance test fail and stator test passes then the rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage).
5. AC Output Check:
Unplug the regulator plug from the stator start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts. Probe both stator wires with your meter lead. The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specification
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm
45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
Stator Resistance Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale. Probe each stator wires with meter leads and check resistance on the meter.
Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. Reading will vary depending on the system, check the service manual for specifications.
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
5. Stator Ground Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wire with your positive lead on the multimeter and the negative to ground.
There should be no continuity to ground on either wire.
If there is continuity your stator is shorted to ground and must be replaced.
6. Regulator Test:
Each of the following tests isolates the regulator only, so if any of these tests fail, the regulator is at fault.
Identifying Wires:
Battery Charge Lead- Wire going from the regulator to battery positive.
AC output leads- Wires coming from the Stator to the regulator.
Ground- Wire from Regulator to ground or regulator may be grounded via the physical bolting to chassis.
Regulator Ground Test: Ensure the regulator body is grounded or grounding wire is fastened tightly to a good ground (you should verify this by checking continuity from the regulator body to chassis ground).
Fwd/Reverse Bias Test/Diode Test:
This check is testing the Diode function to ensure it is regulating the AC current for the stator into DC Current.
Switch multimeter to Diode Scale.
Place your Multimeter positive lead on each AC output wire.
Place your multimeter negative lead on the battery Charge wire.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the AC output wires and the Positive lead on the Battery Charge Wire. The reading should be Infinite. With your meter on the same setting, place your multimeter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the regulator ground and the Positive lead on the AC output wires. The reading should be Infinite.
Note: Below is a table to show the readings:
Positive Lead Negative Lead Reading
AC output 1 Battery charge lead Voltage
AC output 2 Battery Charge Lead Voltage
Battery charge lead AC output 1 ?
Battery charge lead AC output 2 ?
Ground AC output 1 Voltage
Ground AC output 2 Voltage
AC output 1 Ground ?
AC output 2 Ground ?
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads for viewing and printing that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
http://racetechelectric.com/files/pdf/rte_troubleshooting_flow_chart.pdf
1991 Honda ST1100 charging system problems 28a alt
https://haynes.com/en-us/honda-st1100-91-02-st1100-abstcs-92-95-st1100-abstcslbs-96-02-haynes-repair-manual $40
http://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda
Honda Pan European ST1100 Owner Manual

Honda ST 1100... | Answered 8 hours ago


Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel cap or fuel tank is not venting properly.
2. Fuel filter clogged.
3. Fuel line pinched or kinked.
4. Vacuum line from the petcock to intake manifold cracked.
5. Float needle and seat sticking.
6. Float level too low.
7. Carburetor bowl vent line clogged/blocked/pinched.
8. Idle adjusting screw set too low.
9. Air/fuel mixture screw set too lean.
10. Idle port, transfer ports, slow air jet clogged.
11. Slow fuel jet clogged.
12. Faulty fuel pump.
For more information about your issue and valuable "Free" downloads that you will need for viewing and printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
01 XR200R only runs with choke on 4Strokes com
What could be wrong if bike will only run on choke
Thread XLR125 Manual
http://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda
http://mybikemanuals.com/honda/227

1998 Honda XLR... | Answered 9 hours ago


Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Honda, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing and printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
gl1800riders com
Honda Goldwing Coolant Change
Honda GL1800 Service Manual
http://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda
Goldwing Honda GL1800 2008 User Manual

2008 Honda GL... | Answered 9 hours ago


Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Honda, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing and printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Oil change and few other tech questions SuperHawk Forum
Just got used 01 Honda Superhawk got some basic mech questions
Honda VTR1000F Service Manual
http://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda
Honda VTR1000F Firestorm Owner Manual

1998 Honda VTR... | Answered 9 hours ago


Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Honda, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing and printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Anyone pic Details to Bypass Bad Ignition Switch Technical Mechanical...
Hot Wire Magna
Honda V30 Magna VF500C Manual
http://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda
http://mybikemanuals.com/honda/honda-vf-owners-manuals

1985 Honda VF... | Answered 9 hours ago


Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Honda, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing and printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
10 THINGS YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT TIRE AIR PRESSURE
How To Get Ideal Dirt Bike Tire Pressure
http://archivos.diagramas.mx/otros/Honda%20CR250R%20Service%20Manual%20by%20Aponwao(1).pdf
http://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda
Honda CR250R Owner Manual Competition Handbook

2005 Honda CRF... | Answered 9 hours ago


Hey Daryl,
This sounds a little scary...
.. Seems as though you may have cracked the head deep enough to get into the actual internal cavity..OR the threads and their pilot hole went too deep into the head and got into the internal cavity..
ANYWAY.. its time to do some "exploring".. do not crank the bike again until you get the help of a qualified professional!!

Motorcycles | Answered 10 hours ago


Hey Uca... sounds like its new battery time..(or the electrical system is not charging enough to provide voltage to run anything but the engine -Is this right??) .. take the battery to a battery shop and have the CCA (Cold Cranking Amps) checked, this is the only way to tell if your battery is good...replace if necessary..add a little grease on the terminals to prevent corrosion.. If the battery CCA checks good, its time for some electrical system checks..You need a friend to help with this... Using a multimeter (set to DC volts).. crank the bike...put the + side(red) lead to the + side of the battery and the - lead(black) to the - side of the battery.. with the engine running.. it should show 13.2 min.+ volts at idle.. when you rev it over 3500 RPM, it should go to 13.8+ volts minimum.. if it doesn't go this high.. you have a charging problem. ..now, with it rev'd turn the lights on high and see how the voltage fluctuates..it should get a little higher..maybe .2 volts... Check this and reply to me on here..

.......Thanks.. mark as helpful and follow me.. thanks!!

Motorcycles | Answered 13 hours ago


Hey End,
check out these components... one of them IS the problem.. make sure the system will pump fluid all the way to the bottom of the hose..THIS WILL REQUIRE TWO PEOPLE..and a can of fluid.. We are going to test the lever's ability to pressurize the hose...(This will help pinpoint the issue!!)..First.. remove the cover of the reservoir..(keep it level)...(DO NOT let the reservoir get low on fluid!!) one of you needs to remove the hose at the connection(#21 - master cyl. pic)..it will be leaking.. place your finger and thumb over the hose(prevent it from leaking).. have your helper fill the reservoir..now have your helper squeeze the lever.. see if you feel pressure on your finger and thumb..if not.. try putting the cover on the reservoir..and now try pumping the lever ...see if you get pressure at your finger and thumb.(it SHOULD blow fluid out!). IF THERE is NO pressure - no matter what you try..-- The problem is in the master cylinder.. (START from the BOTTOM pic first)..

The numbered pic's are the main culprits.. the problem is most likely in the master cylinder... -- then the clutch (#14 - #16) components...

PlEASE mark as helpful.... thanks

RIGHT CRANKCASE COVER For 1989 Honda VT1100C

#8 or #9

CLUTCH For 1989 Honda VT1100C

#14 or #16

CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER For 1989 Honda VT1100C

#4 is a M.C. rebuild kit.. #7 ..

1989 Honda VT... | Answered 13 hours ago

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