How do you bleed the clutch i gravity bled it and i have fluid at the slave but still have no pressure on the clutch lever

either the master clutch cylinder is bad or the slave cylinder is bad. The slave cylinder is difficult to bleed. You should use a mityvac to bleed system.. it will require 2 people and new fluid. never let master cylinder to get low on fluid.

just like all like clutches.
carefully,
it has a bleed valve on the slave, at the bell housing
you bleed it just like brakes.
google that
or youtube that.
10000s or examples. there.
or read the FSM book>
http://www.jeep4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm?utm_source=cj#service

posted this answer vast times.. and link 100.s

click boxes for car, then clutch chapter and read.
but does not cover bleeding, this is base line automech 101 knowledge. the book assumes you know 3 things.
1: constant loss of fluid and why.
2: air is system renders it dead.
3: how to bleed clutch and brakes (same) 5ways but same.

1. gravity bled
2. 2 man way.
3. vacuum bleeding
4. forward pressure bled at cap
5. reverse bled at slave.

most times it takes 2 ways, in list, unless #5 is done.
air floats up hill is why and clutch lines are vertical. (hard to do)

Check the hydraulic clutch operation. This is a clutch master cylinder with a reservoir on the firewall, and a clutch slave cylinder down on the bell housing of the transmission, with a steel tube running from the master to the slave cylinder. When clutch pedal is depressed, hydraulic fluid (brake fluid) is forced from the master to the slave. The slave cylinder should push out a little plunger that contacts the clutch fork lever-pushing it forward to engage the clutch.
Add brake fluid to the reservoir if needed. Watch the plunger on the slave cylinder: if it moves little, or not enough, try bleeding the slave from the bleeder valve. They are bled just like brakes. If bleeding doesn't help, your clutch master or the slave may need replacing. The master cylinder, like a brake master, has internal seals that hold hydraulic pressure, so force can be applied to the plunger on the slave cylinder.

Gravity will not bleed the system as you need pressure in the master cylinder to bleed out the air. Once you have pressure bled the system you will have a good clutch

i would look to a faulty seal in the slave cylinder, but would expect to find a fluid leak also above that i cant help

Hydraulic Clutch System BLEEDING The clutch system can be bled using a pressure bleeder. Follow the instructions that come with the pressure bleeder for the proper pressure bleeding procedure. The maximum line pressure while pressure bleeding must not exceed 36 psi (248 kPa). NOTE: To bleed a clutch manually requires the assistance of a second person, a section of hose that is compatible with brake fluid (preferably clear) and fits the slave cylinder bleed screw snugly and a container to catch the fluid that is bled through the system. As brake hydraulic fluid easily absorbs moisture, always use fresh fluid when bleeding a hydraulic system.

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section.
2. To bleed the system perform the following:
   1. Top off the hydraulic fluid reservoir using a fluid that meets the standards of the vehicle's hydraulic system.
   2. Open the clutch slave cylinder bleed screw and press the clutch pedal to the floor and hold the pedal down.
   3. Close the clutch slave cylinder bleed screw.
   4. Release the clutch pedal.
   5. Check the hydraulic fluid level and top off as necessary.
3. Repeat the above steps until the discharged fluid is clean and no air bubbles appear during the bleeding process.

You need to PRE BLEED the master cylinder, or you may never get pressure. Parts houses sell little hoses for this purpose.

the clutch will not compress till the system is bled, try gravity bleeding then pressure bleeding

If replacing master or slave, bench bleed the new unit prior to installation.

If just bleeding air out after routine service, apply lever a few times, hold in squeezed position, and open bleeder valve to release air/fluid for a second or two. Close bleeder before releasing clutch lever, or else air will be sucked in, not bled out. Start bleeding closest to the reservoir, working down through each connection or bleeder vavle, finally bleeding the last air out of lowest point near clutch slave. It's just like bleeding hydraulic brakes, except completion can be Much more time-consuming. If necessary, apply slight vacuum to lowest (opened) bleeder, while keeping res. full of fluid.

Once fluid flows or drips with no air present, your sys. is bled. CLose bleeder, and top off fluid. Let me know if these notes are not clear, or if you have additional questions. Thanks, TT