20 Most Recent 1986 Suzuki GSX 550 EF Questions & Answers


your pulse generators are causing this! change this out and get back to me with at least a helpful. Thank you!

1986 Suzuki GSX... | Answered on Oct 04, 2009


Hi, Dchdesigns for this situation I would call my local dealer or reputable shop's service/parts department and inquire about any possible quick fix, answers, or parts inquiry. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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Suzuki GSX 550... | Answered on Sep 21, 2016


1-4-2-3

Suzuki GSX 550... | Answered on Feb 14, 2014


replace seals I would also change wire clip and dust cover ,

Suzuki GSX 550... | Answered on Mar 19, 2013


We REALLY need more details to answer anything, but It sounds like you may be referring to tires. if so, they must be replaced, tubes also.

Suzuki GSX 550... | Answered on Feb 12, 2011


Gearboxes are fairly robust and reliable and very little goes wrong without creating noise and/or roughness and excessive lash without noise would suggest something inside is loose, misplaced or otherwise providing a clue something expensive is happening that shouldn't be ignored.

It would be a good idea to drain the gearbox oil into a clean container and examine it closely using a strong light. Metallic particles or metalisation would add another clue.

A snatchy drive can be caused by loose engine mountings, wear of the clutch plates/basket, worn final drive components/maladjustment, worn swingarm pivot...

Time for a thorough inspection?

Suzuki... | Answered 3 days ago


Hi, Ej before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
2. To check the regulator unplug it from the stator. Take a test light and clip it to the negative terminal of the battery and then touch first one pin and then the other on the plug that goes to the regulator. If you get even the slightest amount of light from the test light the regulator is toast.
To do this with a meter: black lead to battery ground, red lead to each pin on the plug, start with the voltage scale higher than 12vdc and move voltage scale down in steps for each pin. Any voltage is a bad regulator.
3. On the other part of the disconnected regulator plug. Set the multimeter for Ohms x1 scale and measure for resistance across the pins of the stator. You should read something around 0.1 to 0.2 ohms for a 32 amp system.
4. Then check for continuity between each pin on the plug and frame/engine ground. The meter needle should not move (infinite resistance)(digitals will show infinite resistance) if the meter needle does move (indicating continuity)(digitals will show some resistance), recheck very carefully. If the meter still shows continuity to ground the stator is shorted (bad).
5. Set the meter to read A/C volts higher than 30 volts (the scale setting for voltage should always be higher than the highest voltage you expect or you may fry the meter). Start the bike, and measure from one pin to the other on the plug (DO NOT cross the multimeter probes! - touch them to each other). You should read roughly 16-20 vac per 1,000 rpm.
6. If the battery was good under load test, if the stator is NOT shorted to ground, and the stator is putting out A/C voltage, then the regulator is bad (most likely even if passed step 2)
For more information about your question and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Suzuki... | Answered on Dec 11, 2017


read the specifications and the manufacturer for each add and you will see that the manufacturer will be constant
The prices will alter as to the sellers greed
With electrical wound equipment, the life will depend on the current passing through the wire so if there is an over current ( dead short or excess current produced - voltage regulator problem) the expensive unit will burn out as quickly as the cheap unit

Suzuki... | Answered on Dec 10, 2017


Hi, Neil for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Suzuki, despair not, for a mere $30 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Suzuki... | Answered on Dec 09, 2017


IF YOU ONLY PUT PETROL IN THE TANK , IT'S a 4 STROKE.

IF YOU HAVE TO PUT OIL IN A SEPERATE TANK , AUTOMIX IT'S a 2 STROKE. 2 STROKE MAKE A POPPING NOISE WHEN THEY RUN

Suzuki... | Answered on Dec 08, 2017


-Possibly bad oil sensor or the sensor is unplug.
-Check it out and replace if need.

Good luck
Mai

Suzuki... | Answered on Dec 04, 2017


Hi, Regan for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Suzuki, despair not, for a mere $15 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Suzuki... | Answered on Dec 02, 2017


There is a page on google that may have the answers you need, here is the link to that page 1996 suzuki savage 650 replace timing chain Google Search

Suzuki... | Answered on Dec 02, 2017


Hi, Dawn if you have an old bike that has not had regular fuel system maintenance and you run the fuel tank dry I feel your pain. All the contaminants water-dirt-rust-liner paint flakes-ethanol sludge etc. that lived in the bottom of your fuel tank get mixed with the last few oz. of fuel left in the tank and enter the fuel system clogging up fuel filters-fuel valves-fuel lines-carburetor jets-needle jets and seats-fuel injectors etc. You fill up your fuel tank and guess what your bike does not start or if it does it runs poorly, a complete cleaning of the fuel system is mandatory, the procedure is as follows:
1. Drain the fuel tank and inspect the inside for leftover uninvited guests decontaminate as necessary for rusty environments install a liquid fuel tank liner.
2. In tank fuel pumps with external filters need to be cleaned.
3. Fuel valves need to be rebuilt with a new gasket kit.
4. Fuel lines need to be inspected for integrity and replaced as necessary any inline fuel filter should be cleaned or replaced.
5. Carburetors need to be disassembled then "DIPPED" and soaked in a commercial carb cleaning solution Gunk sells 1/2 gallon pails with meshed screen baskets. Reassemble using new rebuild kits. Record all jet sizes and float level for fine-tuning.
6. Fuel injectors and fuel rails need to be properly cleaned and tested for optimum performance, if necessary send off any suspect injectors to "InjectorRx.com" for a modest fee they will refurbish the unit back to factory specs.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Suzuki... | Answered on Dec 02, 2017


Take the carb back off. This time you need to clean all the ports. And pay attention to the high end circuit. Make sure you remove and clean the Jets and ports. I use berrymens spray carb chock cleaner. Use gloves and eye protection. You may find the high end venture plugged.

Suzuki... | Answered on Dec 01, 2017


If you misplaced your key and want to open the seat storage of your Suzuki Access then, you just have to twist the ignition hole that is provided in your scooter and it will unlock your under-seat storage. For more clarification, I have provided a video to to open Suzuki Access125 seat lock, have a look

Suzuki... | Answered on Nov 24, 2017


Follow this link to Bike Bandit. They do a complete parts breakdown for your ride. https://www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts/2003-suzuki-katana-600-gsx600f/o/m147678#sch506479

Suzuki... | Answered on Nov 22, 2017


Hi, Andy for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Suzuki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Suzuki... | Answered on Nov 20, 2017


Hi, Brian for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Suzuki, despair not, for a mere $15 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Suzuki... | Answered on Nov 15, 2017

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