Pre ignition i replaced my 2f with a 3f .the motor runs ok but has major pre ignition

It depends on the plug. The OEM Bosch is pre-gapped. All others are 0.050 (50 thou) or 1.3mm.
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David, try the links
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4881924-Trailer-module-fuse


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A bad one can throw a code and possibly prevent your engine from running. Their function is to retard the timing if they detect a knock, pre-ignition. They are really more of a safety feature to prevent damage to your motor.

1. Check the B+ 40 amp fuse in the Integrated Power Module (IPM). If OK, go to Step 2. If not OK, repair the shorted circuit or component as required and replace the inoperative fuse.
2. Check the Accessory delay 20 amp fuse in the IPM. If OK, go to Step 3. If not OK, repair the shorted circuit or component as required and replace the inoperative fuse.
3. Partially remove the headliner to access the sunroof motor/module.
4. Disconnect the motor/module electrical connector. Using a voltmeter check for Battery voltage at the B+ terminal of the harness connector. If OK, go to Step 5. If not OK, repair the B+ circuit as necessary.
5. With the ignition switch in the "RUN" position check for Battery voltage at the Accessory Relay Output terminal of the harness connector. If OK , go to Step 6. If not OK repair the Accessory Relay Output circuit as necessary.
6. Using an ohmmeter test for continuity between the harness connector ground circuit and a known good ground. Continuity should be present. If OK go to Step 7. If not OK, repair the open ground circuit as necessary.
7. Turn the ignition switch to the "OFF" position. Reconnect the motor/module electrical connector. With the ignition switch in the "RUN" position check for battery voltage on the "VENT", "CLOSE" and "OPEN" circuits at the back side of the motor/module connector. If OK, go to Step 8. If not OK replace the motor/module assembly

A vacuum leak is unlikely to hold RPM that high. 1st inspect throttle plate not closed all the way, possibly hung up, or cable pulled too tight holding throttle open or accelerator pedal not releasing completely. If ok, next would be a computer controlled issue , Possibly idle speed control motor or throttle body assembly if not cable operated .

We have no way to look that up that of cross over info up. Sorry

check that the idle solenoid shut off needle is connected . It is used to stop engine run when the ignition is turned off. If it is not connected the idle circuit of the carby will not function and the engine stops.

Hi , this sounds like you have a couple of problems , firstly with the non starting after the engine has been running ,,, this is normally fuel pressure retension or the pre supply pump under the vehicle is faulty , the easiest way to check the pump, is when your vehicle doesn't start with the ignition lights still on , see if you can hear a buzzing noise from under the vehicle just behind the left hand front wheel , this will only prime itself for approx 20 seconds so it may be easier to have the help of someone , if you dont hear the buzzing turn the ignition off for 1 minute and switch on again , if there is no buzzing noise , replace the pre supply pump , the seccond fault with the blower motor running with the ignition off is a simple fault , this will require a replacment heater resistor , the resistor fails and drains the battery so it will cure the blower fault and the flat battery, hope this helps , regards mark

I would run a diagnostic on it first.
Most major chain autoparts stores will do this for you (Like Shucks/Krager, Auto Zone).
This will save you from replacing more then is needed.

Other items to take into consideration....
Fuel filter, Clean the injectors, voltage checks (alternator, battery, starter draw).
Has any major work been done to it? How many miles?
A good running motor is a balance of all of these things. Not just any one component or component series of items (like the ignition)