Break pedal really tight

First decide where the trouble is - brake pedals give so little trouble it is best to consider other things first, brake booster for instance, so disconnect the pedal from the pushrod/linkage and if the pedal becomes free it will be clear there is nothing wrong.

Only once in over 40 years as a repairer have I encountered a completely locked up brake pedal. A couple have been a little tight but just about usable - in all other complaints about brake pedal lock up problems the trouble was elsewhere and twice the problem was the brake booster being contaminated inside by a leaky master cylinder and poor fitting and a few times the cause was maladjustment of the internal and external brake pedal linkage; in particular failure to ensure proper clearance between the brake booster push rod and the master cylinder piston.

The teeth on the flywheel or starter drive could be damaged enough to cause sticking and it does not release. Another reason could be the clearance between teeth on the flywheel and starter drive are too tight. The starter would need more metal tabs or spacers to increase the clearance distance between the teeth on each one.

Either your throttle cable or throttle plate is sticking. This most likely do to moisture on the cable or in the mechanism freezing do to the cold.

The throttle body is likely a little worn and causing the throttle plate to become jambed in the bore.Adjusting the minimum air rate up a bit will cure the symptom

Your saying as you drive it locks and skids? You say as you try to pull out the wheel is shuck and it won't turn? Or your saying that you detect that the wheel is dragging and the wheel turns fine? Is the other rear wheel sticking? The parking brake pedal is it all the way up? With the pedal up are the parking braek cables under the truck going to rear wheels tight or taugt but moving or slack and hanging. As this cable enters the hosing going to the rear wheel about an inch from the housing ( cable Housing ) clamp on a pair of vise grips or other locking pliers and hit them with a hammer towards the rear wheel. As your trying to make the cable go back as much as it's going to. Check both sides as it's possible that thier frozen in the cold weather. It's wise to avoid using the parking break in cold weather as they get mositure in them over time and with them frozen on the brake wil stick. If you find the cables slack with the pedal released and beating them back towards the wheel does'nt seem to be releasing the break you may need to heat the cable with a tourch to free them. The other answer is the rear break came aprt someway and the break shoes are bound up against the drum. The wheel bearing is possible too unless you can tell is the break.

It's your brake release switch. When you brake you are releasing a button that allows lights to come on. When the little piece breaks off lights stays on. Get electrical tape and tape two stacked nickels tight and neat. Then tape that between brake pedal and button. You should see a little plate sticking out on pedal. The button faces this plate. Watch your fingers.

the gears are sticking? is the shifter just really tight and hard to move from one gear to the next, or even just wiggle around in neutral? if so, you may need new bushings for it. which are not very expensive. IF the shifter wiggles around easily in neutral, but hangs in a gear when you press the clutch in all the way, you could need a clutch, OR hopefully you can just try bleeding the clutch line. at the master cylinder on the transmission. the breaks.... do you have to push the pedal down really hard, or really soft and far? if you're putting a lot of pressure on the pedal but you don't have to push the brake pedal all the way to the floor, that would indicate to me that your pads and rotors are glazed over. you should replace the rotors, pads and have the calipers checked, and have the brakes bled. if you've got to push the pedal all the way to the floor, there's a good chance all you'll need is to have the brakes bled.

To reduce clutch disc/plate problems, avoid riding the clutch whilst driving, ie having ur foot on the clutch pedal when the engine is in operation, especially wqhen the vehicle is in motion. You see the clutch disc is sandwiched between the flywheel of the engine & the pressure plate. When the driver presses the clutch pedal, the sandwiching of the clutch plate is released, so therefore no drive is being transmitted from the engine to the road wheels. This gives an effect as if the vehicle is in neutral (engine can be revved, with no movement or propulsion of the vehicle). When the driver releases the clutch pedal, the clutch disc is now sandwiched tightly causing the drive to be transmitted to the road wheels which will now cause the vehicle to be propelled.

Clutch discs are only replaced when there are problemes with clutching in and changing gears. After constant pressing of the clutch, the asbestos material on the clutch disc after a period grinds down (clutch disc becomes thinner), which in turn will reduce friction characteristics when all the elements are sandwiched. This causes a slipping effect, preventing the drive from being transmitted to the road wheels efficiently. This causes other problems such as high fuel consumption, erratic engaging of gears, hard selecttion of gears, heavy vibration of the vehicle, stalling; just to name a few. In most cases an unusual smell of the clutch disc is observed.

Also just by resting ur foot on the clutch pedal while engine is running can be dmagaing too. You see the clutch release bearing rests on the pressure plate, so when the clutch pedal is pressed by the driver, there is a degree of friction being placed on the bearing because the pressure plate is always rotating with the engine. The clutch release bearing is stationery until the clutch pedal is pressed by the driver, which sends it into the moving pressure plate, so less pressing on the clutch pedal the less friction between the bearing and the pressure plate. Only operate/press/place foot on the clutch when necessary

either your calipers are sticking and need replacing. OR the hoses have failed internally. and need replacing.. very rare but possible the master cylinder is not allowing the fluid to return usually caused bu a booster failing and causing some down travel in the master cylinder. I'd start by raising the front end up. appling hard brake pressure. turn the tire.. then loosen the brake bleeder to check for pressure. if the bleeder sprays fluid and the brakes release forget the calipers. if they are still tight then replace the calipers. pump them up again if they released.. and break the line free at the master cylinder. if they don't release then replace the hoses..

Could be a number of things. A lot of times the ABS sensors at the wheels get dirty. This is due to them being magnetic and a lot of brake pads are semi metallic so the dust sticks to the sensors and makes them fuction a little weird. Have someone clean the sensors. I try to pressure wash them everytime I wash the car. Hope this helps.