Fisher Washing Machines - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support
Rust around the Fisher Paykel Drain Bellows
If it is surface rust, paint it with a rust neutraliser and preventative product. If the rust is deep and flaky, replace the part. If it is the outer drum, it is probably an uneconomical repair.
With top loaders, greasy stains are always from just below the central agitator where the clutch and gearbox are. They use a lot of water pump grease. Older machines have an enamelled outer drum and inner drum. Newer model have a plastic outer drum and a stainless steel inner drum.
Fisher Paykel GLW 15 can RPS failure cause Error 66 and error 240?
Yes, a failed RPS (Rotor Position Sensor) can cause Error 66 and Error 240 on Fisher Paykel washing machines. The RPS is responsible for detecting the position of the motor rotor, and if it fails, the machine may not be able to spin properly and can also cause issues with pressure sensing.
To fix this issue, you may need to replace the RPS sensor or check the wiring connections to ensure they are secure and not damaged. If the problem persists, it may be best to seek the assistance of a qualified technician to diagnose and repair the issue.
Fisher & Paykel Washing Machine won't move
Make sure all of the plumbing (drain and fill hoses) and the power cord are disconnected. You might discover that one or more of these is on a "tight leash" and needs to be reconfigured or replaced with something longer so the washer fits in its intended new location. Maybe the installer used rigid pipes instead of hoses.
Another possibility is that there's something sticky or snagged under the machine. There is no "lock into place" feature on any washer I've ever seen; there's no reason for it unless it's part of a vertical stack. Look under the machine with a bright light - if you don't see something crazy like a warped floorboard sticking up, try lifting the machine straight up or tilting it slightly to see if it will "unstick" from the floor. Do this for each side, or the back first, then the front.
I have a Fisher & Paykel Smart Drive 051 which is old
If your Fisher & Paykel washing machine is making a clunking noise and seems to be washing in the same direction, it may be due to the drive belt. The drive belt helps to rotate the drum of the washing machine and over time, it can become stretched or damaged. To fix this problem, you will need to replace the drive belt.
Fisher Paykel no hot water?
First turn the water off and remove the water inlet hoses and check the strainers in the connector on the machine. They can become clocked with limescale and debris.
If they are okay, you need a new water inlet solenoid valve.
Fisher & Paykel toploader - drum leaning towards the right.
there are 3 to 4 spring assays that holds the drum from inside that need to be replaced every 2 to 3 years of using.
ask the dealer for replacement parts and you can replace the assays by yourself easily by leaning the drum to one side and unhook the spring assay from the top then push it downside gently to unhook it from the bottom. Do them one-by-one and don't unhook all of them at once.
hope this would help you
Fisher & Paykel MW512 won't power on
ttle way and see if the washing machine will start properly. Push start switch may need to be tested with a multi meter for continuity OHMS should show a closed circuit when pushed in or turned on. The start switch on some top load washers is often part of the timer and is activated by pulling out on the timer knob. Although not normally available as a separate part, the switch can be tested for continuity with a multi-meter. You will need to remove power from the appliance and then locate the correct timer contacts as noted on the wiring diagram. On some electronic controlled models, the start switch is a momentary contact type switch located on the control console. You can test this switch for continuity with a multi-meter when the push button is held in Overheating If you've run several loads, one after another, without any problem but suddenly find your washing machine refuses to start, overheating could be the cause. The simple way to discover whether this is the problem is to give the machine ample time to cool down, say for a couple of hours, and then try it again. If it works fine, overheating has been the problem and you may have a motor with bad windings. By the way my advice is free cuz God is good! All washing machines use a motor that is responsible for spinning and agitating during the cleaning cycle. Many top load brands use a reversing motor which means the motor spins in one direction for agitating and another for spinning and draining. If the motor does not start, but makes a humming or buzzing noise then it may be defective. To verify if the motor is at fault, remove the drive and /or pump belts and then try to start the motor again. On direct drive models, you will have to disengage the pump and the direct drive coupling to the transmission. If the motor starts, then the problem is with the transmission or the pump and can be further diagnosed by reconnecting each one individually. If the motor does not start or continues to hum or buzz, then it will need to be replaced Lastly CONTROL BOARD If the control board does not provide the proper voltage to the drive motor, fill valve, drain motor or door lock then the washer may not start. The main control board on most washers is complicated and difficult to diagnose without proper test equipment and procedures. You can visually inspect the control for signs of electrical arcing or burned or damaged components on the board. You should use caution when replacing a control board as sometimes the burned components are caused by external component failures. HYPERLINK "https://www.repairclinic.com/RepairHelp/Washing-Machine-Repair-Help" https://www.repairclinic.com/RepairHelp/Washing-Machine-Repair-Help http://www.partselect.com/Repair/Washer/Will-Not-Start/
Not finding what you are looking for?