Carrier High Efficiency Weather Maker 38TZA024320 8 summers No Cold air controls are working the fan turns on when the compressor tries to start you here a short buzz repeats every couple seconds over the past few weeks when the unit started it sounded like it was under a large load does this sound like a bad Capacitor or compressor froze

is breaker and emergency shut off on-- check ---thermostat /operating correctly--gas /valve on--thermocouple /in working order--gas valve /operating correctly---reset ,high limiter,safety 's //are correct and not popped ---fan working order ---

Condenser fans cycle on and off to control the temperature/pressure of the refrigerant in the condenser. This is normal operation.

As to cooler weather start up and tripping the breaker; how cold is it when you are running it? If it is too cold you could be pumping liquid refrigerant back to the compressor, slugging it and causing it to trip a breaker. However, many things can cause an air conditioner to over-amp and trip a breaker but this tends to be more problematic as the weather is hotter.

Good Afternoon John, thank you for your post! Your new high-efficiency refrigerator may make unfamiliar sounds. These are all normal sounds and soon will become a common hum in your home. This noise also indicates your refrigerator is operating as designed. Hard surfaces, such as vinyl or wood floors, walls, and kitchen cabinets may make sounds more noticeable.


Listed below are descriptions of some of the most common sounds you may hear, and what is causing them:


A. Evaporator: The flow of refrigerant through the evaporator may create a boiling or gurgling sound.


B. Evaporator Fan: You may hear air being forced through the refrigerator by the evaporator fan.


C. Defrost Heater: During defrost cycles, water dripping onto the defrost heater may cause a hissing or sizzling sound. After defrosting, a popping sound may occur.


D. Automatic Ice Maker: If your refrigerator is equipped with an automatic ice maker, you will hear ice cubes falling into the ice bin.


E. Cold Control & Defrost Timer or Automatic Defrost Control: These parts can produce a snapping or clicking sound when turning the refrigerator on and off. The timer also produces sounds similar to an electric clock.


F. Condenser Fan: If condenser coils are located underneath your refrigerator you have a condenser fan. You may hear air being forced through the condenser by the condenser fan.


G. Compressor: Modern, high-efficiency compressors operate much faster than older models. The compressor may have a high-pitched hum or pulsating sound.


H. Water Valve: If your refrigerator is equipped with an automatic ice maker, you will hear a buzzing sound as the water valve opens to fill the ice maker during each cycle.


I. Drain Pan (Non-removable): You may hear water running into the drain pan during the defrost cycle. The drain pan will be located on top of the compressor for air-cooled condensers (black coils on back of refrigerator).


I do hope this information proves to be helpful. Should you need any further assistance please feel free to respond.

The cooling light not coming on, on the ac unit

You probably have a bad run capacitor in your outside unit. You will need to cal a service tech to test and replace it, until then turn your system off until it is repaired. Continuing to try to run it will over heat the compressor and fan motor and cause them damage.

The compressor on the air conditioner in my 2000 GMC Yukon XL went out last summer. Had it and the whole line replaced at a local air conditioning shop last fall. Used it little before cold weather. Warm weather this spring and no cold air. We could hear the compressor trying to kick in. The shop told us that the control console was bad and had to be replaced. They told us the part was on back order and did not know if they would be abel to get one any time soon. We took the Yukon into the local GM dealership. They told us that the high side fitting was bad and that the freon was very low and that they would have to deal with that first to check the system. Called back to the air conditioning shop and they said they had a console come in and they would put it in and check the high side fitting. I now have cold air and questions. Bought Yukon in 2005 used, had always had problem of not switching to cold air once the heater has been used. We were told changing the console should fix that. It has not changed. I feel like the console angle was a scam, that the system was just low on freon. Each shop was blaming the other for trying to scam me. And what can fix the heat to cold issue? If anyone has answers I would sure appreciate the knowledge.

Have fan start capacitor checked/replaced by licensed tech, or electrician as they are very dangerous to work with if not experienced and can give a very high voltage shock, that could be fatal. They basically store and increase voltage to higher range for start up of fan and compressor.

usually capacitor,burnt wires or bad compressor.kill the power and check the terminals at the compressor.they have been known to burn off if the connection is loose.

THE AUTOMATIC IGNITION IS TIMMING OUT BECAUSE IT WILL NOT LIGHT PROBABLY A BAD THERMOCOUPLER TRY TO LIGHT IT MANUALY