I have an IXUS 800IS and the photos taken in bright light, or in shade with bright light in the background, or in a room without the flash and there is bright light somewhere are overexposing.

First of all, be advised that flashes are designed to light people just a few meters away, so that their faces are visible at night or when there's backlighting (very bright/sunny background and dark faces). It will not, for instance, have any effect on a landscape photo taken at night.
Please check if your camera has a manual flash mode. If so, you can set it up so that the flash will fire every time. Check the user's manual for the proper procedure.

1 • Unlock focus area selector. • Auto-area AF selected for Custom Setting 2 (AFarea mode): choose another mode. • Press shutter-release button halfway to turn monitor o?¬? or activate exposure meter • Memory card is full, locked, or not inserted. • Flash is charging. • Camera is not in focus. • CPU lens with aperture ring attached without locking aperture at highest f/-number. • Non-CPU lens is attached: rotate camera mode dial to M. • Mode dial rotated to S after shutter speed of bulb selected in mode M: choose new shutter speed • P, S, A, and M modes: lower ?¬? ash. • Digital Vari-Program modes: turn ?¬? ash o?¬? Turn long exposure noise reduction o?¬? Turn long exposure noise reduction o?¬? Press multi selector up or down or rotate sub-command dial to choose photo information displayed Select All for Playback folder. Note that Current will automatically be selected when next photo is taken •

Turn off your flash light manually and avoid to capture with strong light in front of your lens (sun or lamp)
When you take picture outdoors with much light, try to shade your lens with something, use umbrella or even your own hand shadow to make a shade.

If useful, RATE please !

White shadow or white lines may occur if the light was too bright when you take the picture, especially in strong sun light. Have you turn off the flash light when you taking those picture ? If you haven't, then you should try to turn off your camera flash light manually. And I must remind you not to take a picture with your lens faced the sun light or other light (lamp etc) directly. Even if you take a picture outdoors, try to make your lens shaded by something, you can even use your own shadow to shade them.

Hope this help and be kind to rate please.
(^_^)

Simple check - point any old Infra-red remote control at the camera. If you see a blue flash from the transmitting end of the remote wand, chances are you may be able to equip and use an infra-red illumination lamp. If there is a tripod mounting hole in the bottom of the camera, you may be able to find a packaged illuminator with bracket and compatible tripod screw post to make the camera an all in one, single handed device.

Many cameras are sensitive to near~ middle infra-red but incorporate a "hot filter" to mitigate the effects. Daytime exposures outdoors are FULL of infra-red background radiation that can upset the color balance of the photograph captured. Using an illuminator "saturates" the hot filter and the area in front of the camera, giving it a little help to "see" clearly in a low-light situation.

This is an indication from the camera of "burn out". You have lost all detail in this region of the frame due to the high light levels and the sensor is seeing pure white. This may happen outdoors or when taking a dark subject against a bright background.

Hello,

Just as "Wrestling" explained, your camera is operating properly. There simply isn't enough light in the scene that you are trying to photograph. If you're new to photography, it's sometimes hard to remember that the human brain/eye combination is an incredible thing, and no camera can compete with a human being.

What I mean is, there is enough light in your room for your eyes to see detail, but not enough for your camera to 'see' the detail without additional light from your flash. However, there are a couple things you can try.

1. Raise the ISO setting on your camera (check your manual, it's easy). Turn the camera on, press and hold the ISO button (left top of camera) and rotate the main command dial (back of camera, upper left corner). Rotate left or right to lover or raise the ISO number. Watch in the top information panel as the ISO numbers change. Higher ISO numbers mean the camera is more sensative to light; you can take pictures when there is less light available. HOWEVER, there is a trade-off. The higher your ISO number, the more noise/grain your image will have. I think the ISO of the D200 is acceptable for enlargements (8x10's) up to about ISO 640 or 800. I'm very picky, you might find higher ISO settings work fine for your needs, especially if you are not making larger prints. Experiment! remember to change your ISO back to a lower setting when you're done with your low light pictures.

2. Take your camera off the fully automatic "P" mode (where the camera makes all the decisions), and change your shutter speed to a slower speed. The slower shutter speed lets more light into the camera, because the 'eye' (the shutter) is open longer. (Use the "S" mode where you set the shutter speed and the camera selects an appropriate aperature). HOWEVER, there is a trade-off again. The slower your shutter speed the more likely you are to have blurred pictures; your subject will move or your camera will shake. If you're taking pictures of a stationary object or an adult, you can tell the person to sit very still and experiment! As for reducing camera shake, first and foremost, learn to hold the camera properly. I can't stress this enough...it's the biggest reason for blurred photos that I see. learn/practice squeezing the shutter realease, not stabbing it. Then, invest in a lens with the Vibration Reduction feature.


3. Take your camera off of the fully automatic "P" mode and change your aperature. (If you like, you can use the "A" mode where you set the aperature and the camera selects the shutter speed for you). The aperature is how wide open the shutter "eye" opens with each picture. Think of your own eye. In bright sunlight, your pupils close down to small openings, as there is a lot of light available. If you are in a dark room, your pupils open as wide as possible to let as much light into your eye as possible. That's the same way a camera works. So, if you are in a darker room, you need to let more light into the camera...that means a larger aperature. The tricky part to remember is that the LARGEST aperature has the smallest number. That means a 3.5 aperature is a larger opening than an aperature of 16. HOWEVER, once again there is a trade-off, as a larger aperature means you have a smaller depth-of-field; depth of field means the area of your picture that is in focus. I'm sure you've seen landscape photos, where every detail is in sharp focus, the far away mountains and clouds, as well as small rocks and grass or a steam in the forground. That is created by a small aperature with a wide/deep depth of field. Then think of a portrait in a magazine or taken by a studio, where the person is in focus, but the background fades off into a pleasing blur. That's done with a large aperature and a narrow/shallow depth of field.

NOTE: The widest aperature available is determined by your lens, so you can't use all the aperature settings with every lens. Your camera knows this and will only adjust to whatever your lens has available. That's why you might have different settings available with different lenses. Experiment!!

OK, sorry if that was long-winded, but the D-200 is a great camera, yours is operating properly, and I want you to enjoy using it!

Hi Lindsay Davi,

First, make sure you have the file size set to the highest size and highest quality. Small file size and low quality settings produce small files with pixelization.

Second, no camera performs as well in low light as it does in bright light. It sounds like you are new to photography, so you should start out by shooting in bright light - outdoors in the sun. Once you know how to take good photos in the sun, then you can try taking photos when it is overcast, or in bright shade (on a sunny day but outside of the direct sunlight). As you develop more experience in taking photos you can try more difficult lighting situations such as indoors.

Flash lighting is difficult because the light "falls off" quickly as the distance from the flash to the subject increases. The camera's flash tries to put out enough light to illuminate both the subject closest to the camera and to also try to light the background, but this is often impossible. So the subject is too bright, and the background remains dark. If your subject is further away, the lighting evens out some. If your subject is close to the background (e.g. standing in front of a light colored wall) the camera will get the flash exposure set to a better value and the photos will come out better.

It would also help to get a book on basic photography.

maybe you use wrong white balance, test auto and manual white balance; if there is pink again then your camera have hard ware problem (CCD for exaple). I hope this helps...

Your Polaroid Fun! Digital 320 camera does not have a flash. If pictures are coming out dark, it's because there wasn't enough light in the surroundings when the picture was taken. Remember, it's important to take photos in brightly lit surroundings. When taking pictures indoors, make sure that the room has bright lighting. For best results, take pictures during daylight hours with a combination of indoor and outdoor light, preferably near a window.