Iam getting 24 to the board but not to the contactor

so you mean you are not getting 24 outside? Check at the point of entry on the outdoor unit. not the contactor. Right where the field installed tstat wire lands in the machine.

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the contactor does not have a reset button 24 volts will energize a magnet and pull the contactor in you can also manually push in the contactor for testing purposes the airhandler has the transformer which produces 24 volts this power then goes to the tstat then you select a mode which then goes to the contactor you most likely have a blown fuse on the circuit board or simular problem the contactor could have shorted causing this

Based on your description there should be 2 contactors. One is the contactor that controls power to the welder primary winding, this one should be quite large compared to the other one, the other controls the 24 volt (most common) supply to the wire feed speed control board and gas solenoid. If you do have 2 of these contactors, the 24 volt contactor may supply the control current to the larger contactor..

If blowing out the cabinet has not helped, and at this point it is not likely, the 24 volt contactor should be replaced. If a sealed one is available I would upgrade to that style. The ratings should be embossed on the contactor somewhere, otherwise your control voltage should be 24 volts, use a meter just make sure you are in that range, US, UK and Euro standard share some common specs. You may have a 2 pole or 3 pole type- it depends if the gas solenoid is powered off the same pole as the motor control board, or if it is powered by it's own pole. These would be the "N/O" contacts, and all would have current supplied by the 24 volt supply/control supply. The larger contact coil winding would be on it's own pole. Contacts should be rated at 15 Amps minimum

Replacing both contactors at the same time if so equipped is a cost effective bit of maintanence.

If you have only the single 24 volt contactor, the tip will be live at all times and it will only be the gas and the wire feed control board that would be switched by the contactor.

Again, based on description, I would replace the 24 volt contactor. Contacts should be rated at 15 Amps minimum

I would also just check the gas solenoid with a jumper wire to make sure it opened and closed as it should.

Sounds like you are on the right track. The symptom of the contactor not pulling is your clue to the solution. When you turn the thermostat down lower than the room temperature and the thermostat calls for cooling, the outside unit should start immediately. There are a few exceptions to this but generally this is correct. So if you turn the system to cool and the thermostat is calling for cool then the contactor should pull in immediately. If it does not then check for 24 volts to the contactor. If you have 24 volts to the contactor then the contactor is the problem. If you do not have 24 volt power to the contactor coil then you will have to find where the break in voltage to the contactor is happening.
There are many reasons why you may not be getting 24 volts to the contactor, so check what i stated above before you go any further. Repost if this is the solution or you need further assistance.
Important tip....the yellow wire from the thermostat carries the 24 volt power from the thermostat to the contactor.

Hello, if the outside unit is not running check tje power supply to make sure you are getting 240 volts, also make sure the contactor coil is receiving 24 volts, if you are not getting 24 volts at the contactor then it may be a bad thermostat, control board or the thermostat wiring is loose or perhaps cut somwhere. If you have 24 volts at the contactor and does not energize than replace the contactor coil.

Hello, if the outside unit is not running start at the outside disconnect box and verify if you are getting 240 volts, if you are continue to the contactor coil, check for 24 volts at the contactor coil if there is 24 volts and the contactor does not energize then it must be replaced. If you do not have 24 volts then the low voltage ( thermostat) wiring must be checked out for a short circuit, loose wiring, or the thermostat might be bad. Also, you can check for 24 volts at tjebcontrol board between the r and c terminal if no 24 volts then you have a bad transformer.

Hello, if the outside unit is not running start at the outside disconnect box and verify if you are getting 240 volts, if you are continue to the contactor coil, check for 24 volts at the contactor coil if there is 24 volts and the contactor does not energize then it must be replaced. If you do not have 24 volts then the low voltage ( thermostat) wiring must be checked out for a short circuit, loose wiring, or the thermostat might be bad. Also, you can check for 24 volts at tjebcontrol board between the r and c terminal if no 24 volts then you have a bad transformer.

I would replace the contactor if you are getting 24 volts to the contactor and it isn't engaging therefore the magneto on the contactor is out and the contactor will need replacement. If you don't have 24 volts at the contactor then the transformer that sends the 24 volts is bad and will need replacing

Dave

Also if it where the circuit board that had gone bad. Your furnace would not turn on at all not even the blower motor. You can test them both by looking for 24 volts to the board, and 120 volts per leg of the contactor

did you turn off the air handler when you changed the contactor could have shorted and blown a fuse on the control board. did you get a 24v coil on your contactor. do you have 24v at the contactor when unit is calling. check your wire connections