I have a gt-11 detector, my question is when i touch a 120 volt wire whith electricity on i'm geting a full beeping ( stable ) and what the meaning of touching another wire and get a continuel beep beep beep....

is your wiring capable of carrying 50 amps you should have #6 wire to device. Why are you taking white wire off, if the breaker is off, disconnect load side, remove breaker, install new breaker, connect load wires. 220 is measured across the two hot leads. when you reference either side to neutral or ground you wuill have 120 volts. Now having said that is your neutral floated and not connected too ground side. The problem of floating a neutral wire is that if you touch neutral and ground you will receive shock.. Best to call an electrician.

Is this Dryer in the US? It sounds like it may be as you are refering to a Phase Voltage of 120 volts and a Line Voltage of 240 v.
therefore it sounds like your machine is 3 Phase and in the past you have been wired as 3 Phase and Neutral (4 Pin), it could be that your 3 pin socket at the new location is only 3 Phase ( no Neural ) in which case you may have applied twice the voltage to the control circuit which should be only 120 volts in your case, check on the PCB of the control circuit for any fuse which may have operated, otherwise there may be power supply issues due to applying over voltage in the absence of a Neutral :-(

Look at the detector you removed, and all others that may still be wired in.
They all have battery backup. Although the detectors are hardwired, the chirping is coming from one of the detectors to let you know to change the battery.

Change the 9V backup battery,with a new one.Push and hold the reset button for a minute or two for the alarm to to go off like about 30-40 sec. for the smoke detector to dectected the 9V backup battery power sourced.The green power LED light indicator will stop flashing also the beeping sounds too.

Grnite is SLIGHTLY conductive so if your counter top goes anywhere near live wires such as an appliance, you may sense it is hot with thaat detector. The stray field from the microwave is jumping onto the granite... HOWEVER please verify that your ground on the microwave is intact and returns to the third wire and has continuity to the case of your breaker box. If the ground is broken, that will certainly cause the indication. You can get one of those receptacle testers to test this.

ALSO NEVER trust the detector when safety is an issue. The device is "indication only" and it can be wrong for various reasons.

Most wired-in smoke detectors work off of two sources of power, electric and battery. If the beeping occurs every 30 seconds or so it most likely means you need to replace the battery in the detector. On the other hand if by beeping you mean the alarm is going off, I would first try cleaning the unit with your vacuum. If that doesn't solve the problem then the next step would be to replace the unit. Hope this helps.

Ours keeps chirping even after we replaced the battery. I'm not sure how to fix it.

We are going to try and clean it but if it keeps doing it after that then I guess it means it needs to be replaced, right?

Assuming you are in the United States, the convention with 120 volt ac circuits is that the Black is HOT, the White Neutral, and Green is Ground. Assuming your tester is a neon type light suitable for 120 volt ac circuits, the tester will illuminate when the tester leads touch the black hot and the white neutral, and also when the tester leads touch the black hot and the green ground. the tester should not illuminate when the leads simultaneously touch the white neutral and the green ground. It appears from your description that Your circuit description is operating correctly.. Surprise? ... your tentative assertion "when I touch the black hot wire and the copper ground wire with the tester. This is should not happen, correct?" this assertion (YOURS) is wrong, rather, it would be correct for it to illuminate between the black hot and the green(you say bare copper) ground. It sounds to me, if you need to ask this question, "YOU SHOULD NOT BE FOOLING AROUND WITH LETHAL 120 VOLT HOUSE VOLTAGES AND CURRENTS" I strongly recommend you should hire a licenced electrician. Besides getting electrocuted, you could set fire to the HOUSE, and maybe not when you are looking but when you are asleep, or away from home. PLEASE BE FORWARNED. thank you. Regards --- GooseBay_Camper

Look on the name plate. If it says under 'volts' 120/240 that means it's dual voltage and you can use either voltage to run.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/craig_3fa289bf857b1a3c

You must use a three-wire, single-phase A.C.
208Y/120 Volt or 240/120 Volt, 60 hertz
electrical system. If you connect to aluminum
wiring, properly installed connectors approved
for use with aluminum wiring must be used.

That means that you ned a double 40 amp breaker.

Good Luck