I'm not getting any heat, found a burnt wire and bad capacitor but blower won't come on neither will the coils heat up. Upon flipping the thermostat switch to fan the blower does come on. please help.

for somebody to jump the fuse it tells me there is a low voltage wiring problem. likely have a bad tstat wire somewhere. blower not turning on in auto usually means you have a G wire hooked up to the tstat and the tstat is set for gas heat, needs to be set to electric heat when G wire in place. there's a good start, NEW TSTAT WIRE and proper settings

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Dirty filters is number one, other blocked ducts.
Bad or slipping blower motor
Slipping belts , if you model has it/ them.

Sounds like the blower motor is getting hot and cycling on internal motor overload. Probably airflow or the blower bearing or capacitor. Turn off all power to the unit then you need to check the filter, Evaporator coil to see if air is getting through it. When checking the coil for a blockage you need to remove a side plate, it's triangular and check the entering air side of the coil to see if its blocked. You need a volt ohm meter with a micro-farad scale to check the blower capacitor and motor amps. You could have a bad motor bearing.

Hi jodiew0228...
Sounds like you have two problems
1...Bad timer...replace your timer
2...Something wrong in the heating circuit...
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Here are a few things to check:
ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape.
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse as it is faulty.
If you have an ohm meter then you can test the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse,
then you do not have to tape the wires together as described above.
To test your thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse remove the wires from the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse and check for continuity, if you DO NOT have continuity then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse.
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST AS THIS COULD CAUSE A FIRE BECAUSE YOU HAVE REMOVED THE SAFETY.
Check your blower wheel to make sure it is secure to the shaft and not plugged with lint,socks,etc.
If the thermal fuse overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset.
You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, remove both wires from the thermal fuse and put the test probes to each of the ends of the thermal fuse, if no continuity then replace the thermal fuse.
A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace a generic element go to the following website:
davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
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ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Sounds like your problem may be with the heating coil. Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape or with an ohm meter to test the thermostat/thermistor. (Should have/show continuity)
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor.
(Thermal fuse.If it overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset. A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat. You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, if no continuity, replace it)
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST.
This could cause a FIRE, as you have removed the safety of overheat from the machine.
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the over load resets ,.their maybe a broke wire.. the start capacitor for compressor sounds bad.. look for wires that are burnt or off at thermostat, capacitor, compressor .if capacitor is bulging at the top or leaking acid its bad good luck

Usually when the furnace blower motor runs all the time
The limit switch or rollout switch is usually open or bad.
The furnace board is seeing that one of those switches is open, so it brings the blower on to try to get the heat out of the combustion chamber area, so the switch will close. But if the switch is bad and won’t close, the furnace board will keep the blower running continuously.

Compressor won’t Start
The Main reasons that this will happen
1 - A bad run capacitor (silver or metal capacitor)
It’s either shorted, grounded or open.
If it’s shorted a lot of times it will bulge out, (sometimes slightly)
2 - A bad start kit ( plastic capacitor and Relay connected to it )
The capacitor is either shorted or open
The relay either has an open coil between terminals #1 and #5
Or the relay is stuck.
Any time you change the capacitor or relay you should change
the other, especially if they are over a year old.
3 - A loose, burnt or disconnected wire
4 - Wired wrong
5 Compressor is open (windings burnt open)
6 Low on charge not getting enough cooling back to compressor, (Feel top of compressor to see if it’s hot it shouldn‘t be)
7 Some compressors have a black plastic overload under the compressor cap which could be bad.

Check the following to address this issue.




1. No power to the dryer
Make sure there's power getting to the dryer. Check for tripped circuit breakers or blown fuses. An electric dryer uses two circuit breakers or fuses, and if only one of two is tripped or blown, the dryer might still run but not heat. Sometimes the power cord disconnects or burns at the dryer, if this is the case, the wiring and the terminal block must be repaired or replaced.

2. Heating element
A burned out heating element will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Replace the element if found defective.

3. Thermal fuse
Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.

The fan is controlled by a blower timer board located inside the air handler, or on older units it has a relay called (of all things) a blower relay. If these items were at fault I doubt removing the thermostat would cause the blower to go off. if bad causing this problem the blower would continue to run even with thermostat removed.

But it is also controlled by the thermostat.

You mentioned that if you remove the thermostat it cuts off. There are 2 switches on most thermostats.
1 has Cool, Off, Heat, and Emergency Heat (on a heat pump stat)
2 The other switch has On and auto (it is for the fan motor only)

I believe because it stops when you remove the thermostat that the switch on the fan is set to on possibly. It should be on auto-matic. This way the fan motor only come on with cooling or heating. If in the on it stays on all the time. If this is the case just switch to AUTO.

Or the thermostat may be wired wrong. The G terminal is where the fan motor gets instructions from the thermostat. Make sure its on G at the stat and the correct wire at the blower coil is being used for the corresponding wire going from the stat to the blower for G. Don't confues G for green it could be any color. The terminals are not for color but it makes more sence to make them color - letter identified. On the other end soemtimes the wires are not colored the same so look carefully.

Also a whisker of a thermostat wire could be touching inside the thermostat and causeing the motor to run 100%. Look carefully at this and see if it has too long of thermostat wires stickinhg on out under the screws to where they may tough other things.

If neither things stop or show the problem and it deffinately stops when thermostat is removed the thermostat is most likely bad.

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