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Roy,
Sounds like something is causing your compressor to kick the overload. It could be the overload itself or it could be the start relay or it could be a locked compressor. Probably best to call a service tech.
There are a few different problems you could be having on the defrost cycle. First you will have to check defrost thermostat and heater. Unplug connectors from both ends of element and ohm, if it doesn't read through it is bad. Then ohm defrost thermostat, it has to be cold "below 40" to have a closed circuit so that it will read through. The best way to check it is when it is covered in ice. If it reads through when below 40 degrees it is good. After that it will be to the defrost timer or if it has power board. If there are no wiring problems it will be board or defrost timer. Thanks Logan.
This information does not mean anything to us if you didn't specify the model. In what temperature range a freezer works we knew thanks to the stars.
One star (-6 degrees centigrade) is perfect for making ice cubes and is sufficiently cold to keep food for three or four days.
** Two stars (-12 degrees centigrade) stores food for fifteen to twenty days.
*** Three stars (-18 degrees centigrade) will keep food safe for up to three months.
**** Four stars (below 18 degrees centigrade) means that the compartment provides the ideal conditions for freezing down fresh and pre-cooked foods.
A defective temperature control can cause that problem. Check by dialing it, it should be smooth when dialed. It should be on desired degrees where you set it and not on other. Thanks for asking.
Check all the vents for something blocking the air flow.
Is your circulating fan working?
Sometimes they stick and need a shot of WD 40 and then work
it back and forth a little until it wants to take off again. Keep me informed
and PLEASE give a Thumbs Up for the effort. The Raz Shack
Is your circulating fan working?
Sometimes they stick and need a shot of WD 40 and then work
it back and forth a little until it wants to take off again. Keep me informed
and PLEASE give a Thumbs Up for the effort. The Raz Shack
If the start relay and cap are ok then I'd say it's time for a new compressor. Have you tried running the compressor directly with a direct start circuit? cheers
Check out "victory-refrig.com" for manuals, diagrams, etc.
Cap tube systems are "critical charge systems". Can be difficult to get right. You did not mention pressures that you had. The split on the evap vs.box temp is almost always 10 degrees for freezers. If you want a -10 box, your evap needs to be -20. As a general rule of thumb, you want the high side to be "ambient +30". This seems to work most every time. Your problem might be operations related. Them leaving the door open alot and so on. It could also be a problem with the evap fan or the control to it. It could also be that since there had been a problem with the unit, they are now constantly checking it. Could be checking during a defrost cycle. When your box is at 0 degrees, your pressure should be about a -10 and no less that a -15 degree for the evap. You may have to babysit this thing and see how far it will pull down. You may have a weak compressor. Also, I have had many Hobart freezers fail due to dirty condensers. This causes the oil in cap tube systems to gel and clog up the cap tubes. The only fix is replacing the cap tube. There are alot of variables here so be patient, it's not going to be a quick fix. One last thing, since R404A can fractionate, you really need to pull the charge out and weigh in the correct charge with virgin refrigerant. This will eliminate 2 things. 1, it will ensure the correct amount of refrigerant and, 2 no chance of having a poor mixture of refrigerant in the system causing inconsistant readings and performance.
Hope this helps. And remember, cap tube systems are performance measured by the amount of superheat just prior to the unit making temp and cutting off.
MINUS FORTY DEGREES IS TOO EXTREME FOR A FOOD FREEZER. IF YOU ARE GOING TO USE IT FOR SOMETHING ELSE, YOU WILL PROBABLY HAVE TO REPLACE THE CONTROL WITH SOMETHING ELSE. MOST STANDARD FREEZER CONTROLS ARE DESIGNED FOR TEMPS BETWEEN -10 AND +10 DEGREES FAHRENHEIT.
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