Errattic temperatures in Freezer

Not sure exactly what the situation is I'm going to give you a detailed overview on how the system works that way you'll be able to isolate the problem. Your machine is a single compressor unit, meaning that even though there are two seperate sides, the freezer and the refridgerator, they do not operate independantly. The sealed system, which is what cools the machine, has two parts, a high side and a low side. The high side is located under the machine and consist of a condensor, for which freon is pressurized back into a liquid and passed throug the compresoor to be released as a gas into the evaperator, the low side. This is where the freon is at a cold state. Ok, now that you have the bare basics of a sealed system, we move forward. The Evaporator is located in the freezer side, behind the freezer wall. As freon goes through the evaporator, a fan, called the evaporator fan, is located above it and circulates air throughout the freezer compartment. Also, an airway connects the freezer to the refridgerator, usually top right of freezer, or top left refridgerator on side by sides and through the freezer floor on top mount models. This means the freezer cools the refridgerator side. ****First check point**** Is the fan running in the freezer? This would cause the freezer not to cool as well but also a rise in the refrigeration side would be noticed. As freon goes throught the evaporator, which is made of aluminum, the temperature levels are well below the freezing point, so frost and ice will form on the coils. Over time, this kind of build up would form a blockage, not letting air be drawn from the bottom of the coils by the fan to circulate the cold air. To prevent this from happening the a defrost heater is installed to thaw the ice away and comes on every 6-8 hours. This is initiated by the defrost timer, or in some machines an adaptive defrost control. The heater will be located at the bottom of the evaporator because hot air rises, getting maximum effect. A third part to the defrost system, the first two being the timer and heater, is a bi-metal,or terminating thermost. Its called this because when the thermostat is cold, the metal inside it constricts making a pathway for electricity to flow through to the defrost heaters so it can get hot, and as the heat rises and the ice melts away, the terminating thermostat will warm up, and the metal will expand causing the path of electricity to be broken, turing the heaters off. This is to prevent any high temperature situation from happening, like melting plastic or even a fire. If any of these parts fail, the machine will nit defrost. ***Checkpoint two***** Do you see any ice build up on the freezer wall. This ice will be completely across the back wall. Most signs of defrost problems are noticed first by a rise in temperature on the refrigerator side first. The above can be assessed with a quick look and listen. If no frost is present and the fan is running you can rule out the above. ****Please not that ice build up on just a small section, for example, upper left or right corner only is not a defrost situation but a sealed system issue, caused from low freon or a restriction in the lines and a EPA certified technician should be called.****** The last thing you should check you'll need to pull the machine away from the wall and remove the lower panel to gain access to the compressor area. What you are checking here is to see if the condensor fan motor is running and that the coils are somewhat clean enough for air to flow across them. The fan draws air from across the compressor and through the coils helping to keep the compressor temperature down and also to evaporate the water that is drain when the machine goes into defrost. Rule of thumb is if the compressor is on the fan should be. If the fan isn't runnning the heat from the compressor will be transferred to the machine and notice first on the freezer more so than the refrigerator. ****checkpoint three**** IS the condensor fan running? Are the coils clean, and can you feel the air from the fan with your hand placed on the opposite side of the coils?
The refrigerator side is usually where your defrost timer, discussed earlier is located. Also on this side is where your temperature control, or controls , are located, These controls are what are called thermostats, and have a direct line to the compressor. This means when the temperature has reached the desired setting the thermostat will kill power to the compressor in the same manner the terminating thermostat does with the defrost heater. Some models have a temperature control thermostat for the freezer and the refrigeratot, but some only for the refrigerator. The most noticeable sign of a thermostat being bad is the food in the refrigerator side will freeze, usually on any setting or the machine won't come on at all, including the fans. Problems are usually noticed on the refrigeratot side first. The last thing to discuss is The freezer and the refrigerator both are rising in temperature, but the fans are running, etc. Normally in cases like this a humming sound followed by click is heard or sometimes just the click. The humming sound is the compressor trying to start but failing and the click is the relay breaking contact. On newer machines, especially ones that fall under the whirlpool umbrella, the compressor relay, also called the start device has failed and needs to be replaced, but also the compressor itself could be bad. Well, thats the basics. I know it's long winded but I wanted to put something that you could print out and use as reference. Good luck.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jason_4570d45317834dd3

hello sir

Hello,
Check the temperature setting
Assure that there is enough room for air flow in the freezer or freezer
Check for air flow restrictions in vents
Test the temperature control
Clean the condensor coils
Check the door seals
Test the door switch
Test defrost heater
Test defrost timer
Test evaporator fan
Check for a clogged drain tube
Check for refrigerant leak
Freezer is too cold

Check the temperature setting
Test the temperature control
Freezer is noisy

Hissing and popping is normal, it is the defrost heater.
Check that the freezer is level
Check the drain pan
Check the condensor fan
Check the evaporator fan
Inspect the compressor mounts
Freezer runs continuously

Defrost the freezer
Clean the condensor coils
Check the door seals
Freezer starts and stops frequently

Clean the condensor coils
Check the outlet voltage
Test the condensor fan
Test the compressor relay
Test the overload protector
Test the compressor motor
Freezer does not defrost automatically

Test the defrost timer
Test the defrost heater
Test the defrost thermostat
Freezer has an unpleasant odor

Remove spoiled food
Clean freezer interior with a solution of h
Clean freezer interior with a solution of hot water and baking soda
Clean the door seals
Remove breaker strips and check for wet insulation
Water on floor outside of freezer

Check the drain pan
If you have an ice-maker, check the water supply hose going into and coming out of the water inlet valve
Water inside the freezer

Check for a clogged drain tube
If you have an ice-maker, check freezer and ice-maker for level.
With all this it helps to solve the problem....

The first thing to check is the condenser coil at the bottom of the freezer. Take the slatted front cover off at the bottom where the compressor is located. You will see the conderser coils. This looks like a radiator with aluminum fins, about 16 by 16 inches square. Be sure the coils are clean. Since the compressor is close to the floor it pulls a lot of dust into the coils. You may need to take a long stiff bristle brush to get as much dust as possible off the coils. If this is stopped up, the unit will definately overheat very quickly. While you are down there make sure the fan behind the coils is running. There are several reasons the fan might stop running. The motor can burn out, something can impede the fan blades such as paper, or sometimes rodents. If the fan isn't running the compressor will overheat and shut off. Once you check these basic things, you may then have to address the problem of dissapating the heat. The answer to your question is yes, it will shut down if it gets too hot. You need plenty of air space behind and over the unit in your situation. The air needs to flow into the front bottom section of this unit and flow freely out the back. All commercial refrigeration is designed to operate in 75 degree areas. As your room temperature increases the efficiency of the freezer will decrease. It is not uncommon to find these units in kitchens where the temperature is 85 even 90 degrees. They will continue to work, but will probably run all the time. I would think if you could get 3 to 4 inches of space at the back of the unit and the two feet above the unit with clean coils and properly running fans, you should get better results. You MUST have free flowing air to keep the unit running. The ideal situation is to have the air flow directly through from front to the back of the compressor compartment. In your case, you may have to move the freezer away from the back wall and allow the air to flow up the back of the freezer and out over the top into the room. 2 inch holes are not enough.

Hello,


Check the temperature setting
Assure that there is enough room for air flow in the freezer or freezer
Check for air flow restrictions in vents
Test the temperature control
Clean the condensor coils
Check the door seals
Test the door switch
Test defrost heater
Test defrost timer
Test evaporator fan
Check for a clogged drain tube
Check for refrigerant leak
Freezer is too cold

Check the temperature setting
Test the temperature control
Clean the condensor coils
Check the outlet voltage
Test the condensor fan
Test the compressor relay
Test the overload protector
Test the compressor motor.
Hope this help in solving the problem. take care....

Hi!!

Don't worry about the line, it is supposed to be the way it is. If you are talking about the condenser coil, located on the back bottom part of the unit, with a small fan in front of it, yes, it is supposed to be hot.

The condenser job is to disipate the heat absorbed by the evaporator (the coil inside the freezer). Make sure the condenser is clean and condenser fan is working, also, make sure there is air circulating thru the back of the unit to help cooling the condenser.

The noises you hear, are probably the defrost coil melting the ice on the evaporator, this function is on a timer and happens 3 or 4 times a day.

Good Luck!!

Make sure the evaporator coils on the back or underneath near the compressor are clean. If there is a fan near the coils make sure it's running.

If the food is at normal temperature, then what you are describing is normal.
On a chest freezer the condenser coils are embedded in the outer walls, as the evaporator coils are embedded in the inner walls to provide cooling.

This is the very basic principle of refrigeration. One set of coils (the condenser) are allowed to get hot, so the other set of coils
(the evaporator) can get cold.

When the unit is not running, which is most of the time, the walls will cool to room temperature.

Could be a couple of things. First measure the resistance of the defrost heater that is mounted on the evaporator coil in freezer compartment. Make sure to disconnect the power from freezer first. The disconnect the defrost heater and measure with ohm meter. It should measure in the 20 ohm range. If it measures as "open" replace the coil.

Next suspect is the defrost timer mounted in the front of the compressor compartment. If the heater coil is OK, I'd just replace the timer. It is tough to test.

Finally, there is a defrost termination sensor mounted on the top of the defrost heater that shuts off the defrost heater when it reaches a high temperature. If the coil tests OK, and you are going to replace the timer, you may want to replace the sensor too. It is awkward to test, the temperature of the sensor needs to be be below room temperature to close. The cost of the sensor is low enough that you may not want to replace the timer, then test the system, and then have to go back in to replace the sensor later.

The compressor as well as the evaporator coils will get hot when the freezer is getting cold. Simple principle: Refrigerant gets cold and there must be an equal reaction, something getting hot. Just like the heat transfer in your car with the engine heating the radiator which dissapates the heat. hope this helps you, Rick