Dw64 where is the thermostat located?

Fridge freezing up- and no fan or air circulation:


AT TIMES The fan usually stops working AND CAN MAKE FUNNY NOISES AS WELL due to ice obstruction when the defrost terminator has gone out and u get ice build up? u can check the terminator with a multi meter for continuity but do not check at room temperature. stick the terminator in cup of ice water for 20 minutes then check it for continuity, should be closed when cold and open at room temperature.
May also need to check the defrost timer, The defrost timer is usually found behind the front grill "toe kick" of the refrigerator. Or in the fridge compartment near middle top section.
u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad?
Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next.
Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance..

Another item to check with a meter is the heating element itself. Located under the evaporator coils. It should show continuity or resistance OHMS WHEN TESTED AT BOTH ENDS OF THE PRONGS .

Lastly check the cold control thermostat with a meter for both OHMS and volts ( VOLTS is a live test with fridge plugged in so be careful) It must show 110 volts. An open or thermostat that reads infinity will not allow the proper cooling and defrosting cycles to operate and may in fact stop anything from happening as if there is no power to the unit?

ALSO CHECK THE AIR FLOW VENT SYSTEM and THERMISTORS At times it can get stuck to far closed or open. Some units feature a digital electric adjusting vent system while others are manually set. Check for any ice build up or other obstruction in the vent damper, see if u can manually open or close it. Some times when u have the settings set to the highest it closes off one area while allowing to much cold air flow to the other area!
THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 1300 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required


God is so good: so this is why I give free advice so please thank him not me.

Try turning thermostat knob all the way to left or counter clockwise. This should shut the compressor off. If the compressor continues to run the thermostat is stuck closed & bad. If the compressor remains off with thermostat turned all the way to the left try turning it slightly to the right (warmest setting). See if it stops freezing. If it continues to freeze set at warmest setting replace the thermostat. Try pricing a thermostat out at Refrigeration Hardware. Link attached. Refrigeration Hardware Supply

for cooling or heating is similar in the same basic funtion they need a thermostat for on and off cycles , don't know how it is integrated in your refrigerator but try to trouble shoot that sector first ,maybe locating the thermostat, see if the manual has spec for readings with a multimeter if not might try to research values on the net and tested first , see if it helps good luck hope you can fix it

Hello Ramrecycling,

I understand that you are having a problem with your commercial beverage cooler. If I understand right that one of the refrigerant lines have a hole and the refrigerant is escaping from the unit. This will cause the unit not to get cold as the refrigerant is what produces the cold temperature when the fan blows are over the coils.

I am sorry to inform you that this is not a DIY project as it requires many special tools, vacuum pump (recovery unit), refrigerant gauges, scale, and more items that the common DIY does not own or wish to purchase at a costly price.

I would check with local HVAC contractors and tell them that you have already located the leak in the system and what the cost of patching and recharging would be. Then I would look at how economical it would be to fix or just replace the unit.

Thank you for choosing FIxYa.com

Justin

Beverage Air does make a separate thermostat for use with wine storage.
Click Here to be taken to the beverage air website for part distributors.

I have video with repair of restricted beer cooler. I hope that gives you idea. It could be pretty bad when capillary tube gets clogged. There might be more problems that lead to restriction.

There is 2 kind of compressor location on those beer coolers. I have video of both. Hope that helps.

You should check the defrost timer, it is located in the back, probably on the left. The timer can stick. Next time your unit is hot inside, remove the back and turn the defrost timer clockwise (there is a little knob that clicks when you turn it) see if the unit comes on then. If it does you will need to replace this timer. If not you may have a thermostat problem or possibly a refrigeration problem. The part # for the timer is 502-171A. The part # for thermostat, if needed, is 502-111A check on www.beverage-air.com to see who your local parts supplier is.

Call Beverage-Air and provide both model and serial # to the parts department and they should be able to identify the year the unit was manufactured - 800-845-9800

Matt - coolergaskets.com