Radio shack multimeter 22-801 ohms meter fail after fuse blown and replaced

approach this logically. First make sure the fuse in the power cord isn't broken and if it is replace it and maybe the radio will work. second , take and remove the microphone , now with a multimeter insert one probe into the antenna jack and with the other probe you start touching those pins for the mic. make sure you have the meter set for ohms sound . Now if you hear a tone then there is some contact through the board . press on the center of the board to see if you loose contact and if you do ,now comes the fun. Get out your magnifying glasses and look for the crack in the board. once you have found it you should bridge that crack with a resister and recheck for power. repeat the process and as long as there is no change you are good to go.

A fuse is either open (blown) or good (electrical path). The best way to check it is with an ohm meter to check for an open (infinity ohms reading). But you will need to take the fuse out to check it.

Hi,

You may have a blown fuse. First unplug the TV and take the back off of it and then look for a tube shaped glass with two metal ends. Take it out and visually inspect it, if it looks burnt on the inside then you have a blown fuse if it does not look burnt, take a multimeter set to resistance and measure the resistance between the two metal ends (put the leads of the meter on the metal ends, black on one and red on the other) you should read 0 ohms...any other reading is bad. Now if the fuse is bad buy replacement fuses from your local electronics parts store or from Radio Shack. Replace the fuse and see if this solves your problem. Plug the set back in and if the set powers up and remains up unplug the set again put the back on again and you are finished.

Please get back to us if you have any further query or else accept the solution.

Thanks for contacting fixya.com

The power control problem is easy to fix.

It can as simple as a fuse (I'm sure you check it already) or a switch that is piggy back on the volume control.

Radio Shack has a similar one HERE

Disconnect the AC outlet and open the main Tivoli unit.

Look at the back side of the volume switch and you will see a power switch piggy back onto the volume control.

You can bypass it or get the correct value Potentiometer + SPST switch.

Use an ohm meter to meter the both end of the potentiometer and if it's 10,000 ohm or 10k then just go to Radio Shack and ask for
10K-Ohm Audio Control Potentiometer with SPST Switch Model: 271-215 | Catalog #: 271-215

It's a direct replacement.

If the ohm read is other then 10K then you will need to order it for an electronic supply house.


Tivoli makes great radio.....if you want to sell it I want the first dip.

They are probably blown. Here is instructions for testing a blown speaker.

Get yourself an electric meter, like a multi meter they sell at your local Radio Shack. Set it to read ohms (impedance). Make sure your speaker is off and put one meter lead on each of the two terminals. If your speaker is blown, it will read infinite impedance. If your speaker is good to go, it will read 1.0.

First, use an ohm meter and test the power wires for continuity. If they test good then there is a protection diode on the board that is probably blown. If I remember right it is a 1N4001 diode. Generally you can see if its blown as it will either be burnt or look like its cracked. If it is you will need to replace that diode to restore power.

Hello swami nathan,

You may have a blown fuse. First unplug the TV and take the back off of it and then look for a tube shaped glass with two metal ends. Take it our and visually inspect it, if it looks burnt on the inside then you have a blown fuse if it does not look burnt, take a multimeter set to resistance and measure the resistance between the two metal ends (put the leads of the meter on the metal ends, black on one and red on the other) you should read 0 ohms (zero ohms) any other reading is bad. Now if the fuse is bad buy replacement fuses from your local electronics parts store or from Radio Shack. Replace the fuse and see if this solves your problem. Plug the set back in and if the set powers up and remains up unplug the set again put the back on again and you are finished.

If the fuse blows again you may have a problem in your LV power supply path or your HV power supply path. In either case this requires that you know electronics, and I would suggest that you take your TV to a qualified TV technician.

I hope this helps


Thank you,

Shuttle83

If your fuse 'seems' to be good, it sounds like you don't own any kind of meter.

Your can buy a serviceable digital multimeter that will be useful for many things around home and on your car for <$20 US.

If you have a Harbor Freight tool store in your area, they have usable meters for (on sale) $3.00.
Radio Shack runs higher but still under the mentioned limit.

Fuses can have minute cracks that may not be visible; you can be sure the fuse is blown if it failed catastrophically but otherwise, a meter will confirm that it is good or bad.
Also, the fuse contacts and the socket can fail due to corrosion so pulling and plugging a few times is advisable.

The presence or lack of voltage can be determined with a meter by removing the bulb and measuring between shell and the base contacts.
The bulbs can also be then verified.

I think you have probably lost a bulb but the entire loss of light could well be due to a chassis ground failure that may be dependent on a push-on or bolted/screwed point where one or more wires are attached to ground.

The meter I recommend would be very helpful in se3arching for your problem.

If the diode failed by opening, there may be no other damage. If the dioded failed by shorting, the alternating current may have damaged other components. Ohm it out. You can get diodes from digikey.com, mouser.com, or radio shack or any electronics or appliance supply. If the diode is charred and you can't get the part number, the oven rating can be used to select a replacement. Since the fuse was 10 amps, the diode should also handle at least 10 amps. If you can power the unit and read the voltage at the diode input this will give you the power (volts times amps). It's always worth trying as it's cheaper than replacing the unit.